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View Full Version : Minimizing loss of damascus pattern...


John Mazza
10-14-2009, 04:46 PM
I am seeing more loss of the beautiful damascus pattern ("finish") on my EH 10 Parker than I was expecting. I've only had the gun a year ! Most of the loss is occuring where my left hand touches the barrels.

Are there any tricks that you guys use to slow down this pattern loss ?

...or do I just have exceptionally corrosive hands ?!?!


Any suggestions would be appreciated !

Thanks !

Dean Romig
10-14-2009, 05:28 PM
Unfortunately the salt and acid levels in some people's perspiration is a lot more concentrated than other's. Nothing you can do about that. Wear a glove? But there are chemicals in the residual tanning chemicals in some leathers too. Wax your barrels and make sure to freshen the wax periodically. This may help a bit but nothing will stop it short of turning your gun into a 'safe queen'.

Drew Hause
10-14-2009, 05:53 PM
Courtesy of Joe Wood for protecting damascus barrels after cleaning:
"Formby's Tung Oil is by far the best metal finish I've used. It is very easy to apply (or remove), dries quickly, and seems to have "miracle" restorative properties when applied to faded damascus barrels.
Place a long wooden broom handle in the breech of one tube and tighten the handle in a vice so the barrels are horizontal. Wet a 4 inch square cloth patch with the oil and wipe it on, moving quickly. It might help to rotate the tubes using another wooden dowel in the muzzle of the other barrel. One patch should do both barrels. Let dry for 3 to 4 days then admire your work."

George Blair
10-14-2009, 06:29 PM
John, Doc Drew has it covered. I have used it on three damascus guns...works great! The only advice I would add is, use in very thin coats, and make sure cloth is lint free. George

Russ Jackson
10-14-2009, 07:37 PM
What is the best way to clean your old non refinished Damascus barrels before applying the Formbys ?

Drew Hause
10-14-2009, 07:48 PM
Courtesy of Roy Hebbes-Smith
"An old trade process for polishing metal used white black-board chalk sticks in combination with oil. First coat the barrels with a light film of gun oil or KleenBore Formula 3 Gun Conditioner. Then rub the barrels with the chalk stick, focusing on the rusted areas, but to include the entire surface. The rust is lifted by the chalk sticks without damage to the damascus pattern. Wipe clean with a soft rag and repeat as required until all the rust is removed. After cleaning all residual from the barrels with G-96 Brand Triple Action Gun Treatment or Ballistol, consider a coat of Flitz Rifle & Gun Wax or Renaissance Wax Polish."

Jim Williams
10-14-2009, 09:53 PM
We degrease them thoroughly and spray with a couple light coats of clear acrylic lacquer (from spray cans). I have a couple of 3/8 x 36 in. dowels that I place down the bores, and have the excess length sticking equally out the muzzles and bores (I haven't done any barrels longer than 32 in.). I put a couple of 2x4 blocks at each end and lay the exposed ends of the dowels on them to suspend the barrels a couple inches above a dust-free surface. Spray a coat on one side and use the dowels to flip them over to spray the other side, let dry 10 min. and apply a second coat. I think I got this from Oscar Gaddy if I remember correctly. In any case, the pattern will remain unchanged as long as the lacquer is intact. When it starts to wear off, you can strip them with lacquer thinner and re-apply.

Jim

David Hamilton
10-14-2009, 10:16 PM
I have read in the Ballistol literature that anything but a very thin coat of that oil will fade "browning"!!! I have not observed this but then I don't have any pristine damascus barrels. I have been careful to wipe the barrels almost "dry" after treating them with Ballistol. David

John Mazza
10-15-2009, 11:31 AM
Thanks guys !

Will normal cleaning with Hoppe's # 9 "damage" the waxed or laquered surfaces ?

Jim Williams
10-16-2009, 12:32 AM
I use Hoppe's inside the barrel, but RemOil spray on the outside. The rag has a mixture of both permanently embedded in it. Neither seems to affect the lacquer.

Jim