Parker VH 1904

[Ron Jamieson]

I am in the process of acquiring one that has alot of case coloring and wood and metal looks fine, 80% original bluing. It still has 2.5 chambers. My question is does it hurt the value to go to 2.75, or should I find a source of 2.5 shells. Where can I find them?

[Bill Murphy]

You should shoot reasonable shells in your short chambers like we have done for decades and continue to do today. If you have a composite barrel gun, you should select your loads just a bit more carefully than if your barrels were made of fluid steel. The VH is normally made with fluid steel barrels and is a very strong gun, suitable for modern ammunition of reasonable pressure and velocity.

[Dennis V. Nix]

Hi Ron, I have been purchasing shells from RST.com. They offer a big selection of shotshells in many different gauges that are perfect for the older guns with short chambers. My personal belief is it does diminish the value of a fine shotgun by lengthening the chambers. Others may disagree. I have also fired 2 3/4 inch plastic shells of low velocity in 2 9/16th inch chambers of a 16 gauge with absolutely no problems at all. Again, others may disagree. Good luck and good shooting with the new VH. We would all appreciate some photos of a fine gun. Dennis

[Ron Jamieson]

I will post some as soon as it get my hands on it. Thanks for the info

[Ron Jamieson]

13886

13887

I cannot wait to get it these are the pics I was sent. I have always wanted a good one. Wood and checkering is excellent, it has a recoil pad.

[Dave Noreen]

Good find. Doesn't appear to have spent as much time in a duck boat as my Father's 1902 vintage 2-frame VH-Grade 12-gauge. Dad's gun is on its second stock and third barrel blue!! 2 1/2 inch chambers would be unusual for a 2-frame 12-gauge Parker Bros. gun. Most had 2 5/8 inch chambers, intended for 2 3/4 inch shells.

[Bruce Day]

FYI

[lee r moege]

Ron that looks like a real "sweetie"! With Bruce's photo I think you can see what you can do without special shells or reloading equipment. My only suggestion would be to stay away from the Wally World and similar cheapie loads as they are designed to function in anything. Many times the pressures are kept high to achieve this. I would stay with target or field loads of 1 1/8 ounce or less and pressures around 9,000/9,500 psi. Some ammo companys will give you the pressures of their shells. The big concern is more for the wood in the stock where it joins the metal frame. Remember it is very old and possibly oil soaked enough to make it soft. Putting heavyloads and recoil through the gun can cause the stock to split. I would not alter the chambers as this isn't really necessary and there may not be enough metal in the barrels to do this and keep them safe to shoot. A really good "smith" can measure the wall thickness and make that determination. Remember, the shells we now have are so much better than the ones used when your gun was new it shouldn't require using more than a field load to duplicate what was a "heavy" load in those days. Lee.:)

[Ron Jamieson]

I really appreciate the info, the fellow I getting it from says the wood grain is far nicer than most VH grades he has seen, so I guess it could have been restocked, but will let you know. What is correct method to measure the chamber?

[lee r moege]

Ron: There are some chamber length gages available from Galazan that work well and are inexpensive. They are like a jacknife and will measure several gages and chamber lengths by just opening them up to the right gage and poke them into the chamber till they stop and reading the measurement. Lacking this, if you have a small machinist scale or ruler that will go into the chamber you can set a light to shine into the muzzle end of the barrels and push the scale in until you see it touch the end of the chamber where the forcing cones start. This will be the first "ring" you see down in the chamber looking from the breech end. Just hold it there and see what the scale reads when it's square to the breech. Sometimes with a machinist scale that is thin you can slide it down the chamber wall and actually "feel" it stop or raise up at the end of the chamber. I would almost assume you are looking at 2 5/8" with that vintage gun, and the scale method should be accurate enough to verify it. Regards! Lee.:bigbye:

[Bill Murphy]

Ron, you have an extremely high condition VH grade Parker. About one in one hundred 1904 VH grade Parkers have as much original finish as yours does. It doesn't seem to be anyone's restock judging by the wood fit at the receiver. Parker chambers meant for 2 3/4" shells are generally cut to 2 5/8" by factory blueprints. There is no need to deepen them. What a shotgun.

[Ron Jamieson]

I looked through the rest of the pics again, it has a pistol grip with really nice checkering, I noticed a metal shield on bottom of butt stock, brass front bead, it has vulcan steel barrels, that look extremely nice,(however photo's can be deceiving). Wood definately looks to have good figure. I'll describe more accurately once I have it in my hands. Thanks Ron

[Dave Noreen]

This has been posted by others before, but I've saved it for reuse --

Chamber depth is considered to be the distance between the breech end of the barrels and the joint between the chamber body itself and the forcing cone, which reduces down to bore diameter. This is loosely based on the length of the "Fired" shell. Today, theoretically when the crimp opens on the shell being fired the end would land at the junction of the chamber and cone. Prior to WW-II many companies had the practice of holding the chamber about 1/8 inch shorter than the shell for which it was intended. Fly in the ointment is nominal measurements often differ from actual ones in both chambers and shells. A very good method I have found of measuring chambers without much outlay of cash, and is quite accurate enough for virtually any situation, is a common 6" flexible machinist's scale which you likely have. Hold the barrels with muzzles toward a light source, not necessarily a concentrated one a window is great, while looking into the breech and the cone will be thrown in a shadow. May have to move the barrels around a little until it is distinct. While still looking into the chamber simply slide the scale in until you observe the end coming flush with the shadow line & mark position of breech end with your thumb. Remove and read the scale. I usually repeat this a few times to insure I am getting a consistent reading, but you will be amazed how accurate this can be done. While I own a Galazan chamber gauge, I use this more often than not. The chamber body itself has a taper of about .005" per inch. Sometimes chambers were cut with slightly worn reamers giving a slight undersize chamber. If the chamber is a bit undersize a gauge made to "industry" standards will not go in to the true depth of the chamber. A.H. Fox Gun Co. shotguns are known for having tight chambers. The machinist’s scale method can be more accurate.

[Ron Jamieson]

thanks I have a machinist rule, Custom Knifemaker

[Justin Julian]

Ron,
Order yourself a case of RST's 2 1/2" shells, even if your Parker is capable of safely shooting 2 3/4" loads. The RST shells aren't overly expensive, and I think you will find that shooting an "obsolete" length shell in a vintage gun only adds to the nostalgia and enjoyment, without giving up any noticeable performance.

[Ron Jamieson]

That is probably exactly what I'm going to do. Thanks Ron

[Ron Jamieson]

Does anyone know of anyone making the leg of mutton case?

[Bruce Day]

Does anyone know of anyone making the leg of mutton case?

Sure. Google Robert Cochrane and/or Bud Shaul. Both make fine, high quality, new leg of mutton cases.

[Ron Jamieson]

UPS is going to deliver today, worse than Christmas. Will post condition as soon as I unwrap it.

[Linn Matthews]

Leg o Mutton cases come up for sale periodically, particularly on our "for sale" section. I believe that joining the PGCA allows you to participate in that benefit.

[ed good]

altering the gun in anyway, will reduce its collector value.

opening the chambers to 2 3/4" will reduce recoil when shooting modern shells. and it will help preserve the old wood, by lessening the chance of cracks.

keep your loads light and your screws tight.

[Ron Jamieson]

I just finished unwrapping it, absolutely beautiful, excellent wood and sharp checkering, barrels perfect, one small ding on right barrel. All matching numbers, lots of case color hardening. How can I tell if has been rebuilt, because it certainly looks all original to me. Bluing on barrels is nearly perfect. She has 30 inch barrels. A true example of American craftsmanship. It fits together like a pocket watch, stiff on opening.

[Dean Romig]

By the pictures you have provided us the gun appears to be in original condition.

The screws have obviously been turned (especially the one at the rear of the floor plate) but only show faint signs of turning.

[Ron Jamieson]

one in the center bottom has been ruined, who can replace them?

[ed good]

nice original looking gun...enjoy.