Artificially Aged Silvers (Pics?)

[Jim Williams]

I'm hoping that someone who has artifically aged a Silver's pad according to the directions Galazan recommends (apply vaseline and buff) could post a pic of the result. I know Bruce mentioned he has done this, any others would be appreciated as well - or if you have another method you prefer and some pics, that would be great, too. Many thanks,

Jim

[Jay Gardner]

Jim,

I just went through this with a Silvers pad from Galazan and I'll try to post some pictures. Before you try this let me tell you my experience: I applied a light coat of varnish and it took a week before it was not sticky to the touch, but it was tacky. Cleaned it off with mineral spirits and started over. Another coat - another week and same thing. Consulted with a friend of mine who works on guns and he suggested Tru-oil. That worked.

My suggestion: 1.) forget about antiquing and just use the gun - the pad will weather and age. 2.) if you want to do something to knock off the look of a new pad put a couple of drops of Tru-oil on each side of the pad and use your finger to run it in. Let it set for 48-hours and do it again (if you want).

My pad now looks like is has seen some honest use but I would not call it antiqued. You can play around by rubbing a little dust onto the pad after you apply the Tru-oil the result of which is to darken the finish.

[Jim Williams]

Thanks, Jay. I probably will just leave it alone, but I would still like to see how they turn out after using the Galazan-described procedure.

Jim

[Jay Gardner]

I'll post pictures of the pad I did with Tru-oil. I followed the proscribed process but the varnish never set-up. There must have been something in either the pad or the varnish that resulted in a negarive reaction. But for what ever reason, it just never worked. Fortunately, Mineral Spirits and an old t-shirt got me back to where I started.

[Kevin McCormack]

I don't know why you guys fool around with Tru Oil, vaseline, sperm oil, ambergris, verdegris, and etc. I told you all how to do this years ago so now pay attention once again and stop all the alchemy trying to age these things. All you need to do is wrap the wood adjacent to the pad with several layers of TIGHTLY wrapped aluminum foil, then swab the pad with kerosene. Then fire up the Bernz-O-Matic and light her up, keeping care not to get the hottest part of the flame tip (blue inside the red) too close to the pad. Let burn for about 35-45 seconds, then blow it out. If a darker color is desired, repeat the procedure al dente, so to speak. (It's just like flaming a cork Blackduck decoy body to get that absolutely no-glare finish). Rub the pad liberally with fine dirt or dust from under your drill press or grinding wheel for that extra "marsh gunner" look. Wipe down again to remove any excess getting on your Orvis leather International shooting vest or your Cabela's "Country Boy Can Survive" T-shirt. Then take it out and shoot it to break it in properly.

[Chuck Bishop]

Kevin,

Do you have a reason for keeping the pad on the stock? Other than possibly warping the pad due to heat, I would think it would be wiser to remove the pad, screw it down on a hard non flammable surface, then torch it. What say you?

[Eric Eis]

Chuck,
Sometimes you have to take Kevin tongue and cheek :rotf:

[Destry L. Hoffard]

I think Kevin is actually serious on this one guys.....

My recently installed Silvers on "The Swamp Angel" is beginning to look good already. I dosed it with some river mud in Quebec and rubbed a little goose blood on it Saturday.


Destry

[Buddy Marson]

Sounds like the risk isn't worth the reward with Kevin's method. Just shoot it and let it age naturally!