Stock refinishing opinions

[Bob Dombeck]

Hello,
I'm debating on whether or not to have my VH stock refinished. I've had the gun for about six years and the barrels were refinished when I bought it so it's not 100% original now.
I am just considering having a new finish put on it to help protect the wood. You can see by the pics that the current finish is getting splotchy. I'm not interested in having the checkering recut, just possibly a new finish. There are only a couple of small dings in it which I plan on leaving unless they're easy to have fixed. If I decide to go with this, I would also, more than likely, do the forearm as well. The pictures aren't the greatest but I can take some more if it helps people with their input opinions.
Any opinions pro or con would be much appreciated.
Thank you.
Bob
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii1/Parker-VH/DSCN0349.jpg
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii1/Parker-VH/DSCN0347.jpg

[Brian Dudley]

Yeah, it could use some finish added, in my opinion. That could be done easily without having to remove the old finish. And it would retain the character of the old gun. Your right, since the barrels were redone already, you are not 100% original. As long as the level of finish suits the overall finish of the gun, it will greatly improve the appearance of the gun.

[Dean Romig]

As Brian says, just add finish - don't remove any of the original finish and above all, don't touch that nice checkering.

[Bob Dombeck]

"IF" I wanted to have someone else do the refinishing for me, can I get some referrals from people who have had a similar project done and possibly some before and after pictures? I'm not sure if I'd want to tackle this myself or not. The head of the sock by the top lever is definitely darker than the rest of the stock so I'm wondering if this is oil soaked and if so, would that need to be fixed first? I can take some pics of that area tomorrow.
Thanks.

[Austin W Hogan]

Clean that butt well, and it will almost instantly recover with shellac and oil "french polish"

Best, Austin

[ed good]

try a little true oil applied with your finger..could do wonders.

[Jerry Harlow]

Bob,

I took my "hunting" VH today after rabbits in the mist which turned to pouring rain. Tonight, after having dried it all afternoon by a nice warm wood stove fire I am applying Tru-oil brand oil into the stock wood, leaving the stock on the gun and having removed the forend metal, onto that wood. My gun by all appearances was much like yours, but now after it got wet I realized how dry the wood realy was. The wood was unprotected.

Just carefully rub the Tru-oil into the wood with a clean white cotton patch, only a very small amount on the patch, just enough to work into the wood. This can be carefully done without removing the metal from the stock. As thin as you can, allowing it to dry between several coats. This is just my opinion. Others may differ.

[Dean Romig]

The head of the stock does not look oil soaked at all.

[Mark Ouellette]

Gentlemen,

In one sentence Austin not only informed all how to repair worn finish and also what original Parkers were finished with. That was pretty darn good Austin!

Shoot well and often,
Mark

[Brian Dudley]

The Head of the stock is Dark in some spots, but this is most likely just dirt and grime buidup from handling and use. A way to check or address that is the use denatured alcohol. This will get that dirt and crud off of there, but not hurt the finish.

Usually the head of any old stock will be a bit darker due to some oil, but not oil soaked per say. If there is no damage or softening of the wood, then it is not oil soaked. Like I said, just a cleaning and reapplication of oil will be fine and not remove any of the original "Patina". If the head is actually just a bit darker and not just dirty, then it is character that you want to try and preserve.

[Chuck Bishop]

Bob, I had a similar situation and found that I could do the work myself and I think you could do the same. It would be a nice winter project for you.

If this were my gun here is what I would do. I'd take off the trigger guard, grip cap, and butt plate. I'd tape off the receiver where it meets the wood with painters tape. Lightly go over the stock with 0000 steel wool. Make a rubbing pad by taking cotton balls or guaze and putting them in the center of an old clean 4x4 T shirt. Close the T shirt around the cotton balls so that the pad would be about the size of a nickel and tie off the tail. You now have a rubbing pad. Get some Bullseye Amber shellac and some linseed oil. Dip the rubbing pad into the shellac so that it absorbes into the cotton. Don't make it sopping wet but more than just damp. Put a drop of linseed oil on the outside of the pad and you are now ready to apply to the stock. I'd start on a small section of bare wood to see how it matches the original finish. Keep the pad moving because the shellac dries quickly and the pad will stick to the wood if not kept moving. Use an irregular pattern such as a figure 8 on that small area. Apply more shellac and oil to the pad as needed. You'll get the feel of this when you need more shellac. If your satisfied with the look, go over the other areas of bare wood until the level of finish is about the same as the original finish, then start on the entire stock. Work in sections, one at a time and blend in that section with one that was just done until you've done the entire stock. You should be able to go right up to the checkering with the pad or if needed make a smaller pad about the size of a dime to get into the tight areas of the checkering.

It's not really hard to do French Polishing and the results are worth you trying it yourself. You'll take pride in the fact that you did it.

I'm going to try and attach an old forum post about French Polishing. Hope it works.

Chuck Bishop

[Mark Ouellette]

Chuck,

Thanks for posting the old forum thread. It contains valuable information, as did your post. I retained it in my files.

Mark

[Chuck Bishop]

My understanding is that shellac and boiled linseed oil do not mix together. The oil acts only as a lubricant allowing the shellac on the pad to adhere to the wood evenly. Too much oil and it will either stay on top of the shellac or migrate to the top of the shellac coat at a later time. You want just enough oil that you can rub the shellac without the pad sticking as you move it across the wood. When the pad starts to move on the surface in a jerky manner, it's time for more shellac and another drop of oil.

If I'm incorrect, Austin can comment if he reads this.

Chuck

[Dave Suponski]

This is a great thread. Chuck you make it sound so easy I just may have to give it a try. Wood and I dont generally get along but I have a couple of hunting guns that would benefit from a little refinish.

[Chuck Bishop]

Dave, who are you kidding:rotf: Your a man of many talents especially at marble and on the SC course. What's also nice with the shellac, if you screw up, denatured alcohol will take it back off. Ask me how I know:whistle:

[Dave Suponski]

Chuck,My brother is the carpenter in the family. The stuff he can do with wood is amazing to me..but he told me long ago....please stay away from anything made outta wood.....:rotf:

[Brian Dudley]

Yeah, shellac is about one of the only things that denatured alcohol will harm. It works very good for softening or removing it.