The versatile MEC 600 jr.

[Jack Kuzepski]

After reading Milt Starrs thread on "theoretical press problem". I thought I'd post some of my experiences with the MEC 600 jr for reloaders on a budget. This also saves space in my shop by not having a press for each gauge. With my setup I'm loading smaller shot sizes probably nothing over 6 shot. The amount of shot varies between 3/4 oz to 1-1/4 oz max. I have loaded larger sizes of shot and heavier charges using a shot dipper and buck shot by hand counting and hand placing in the hull.

I find the MEC 600 Jr. a very versatile machine. My press is set up so I can load 4 different gauges 10, 12, 16 or 20 with a 5-10 minute change over on the same machine. I'm loading 2-3/4"shells in 12, 16 and 20 gauge and 2-7/8" in 10 gauge. I'm happy making quality reloads at a rate of 70 -80 shells per hour so I don't need a progressive machine and I still turn out several thousand shells a year. I started this by having the machine originally set as a 20 gauge press which is the smallest gauge I'll load on it*. I didn't have to buy "a die set" for each gauge just a few necessary pieces. I do not use a shell holder for any of the gauges as the overhead tools of the machine at each station helps center the shell for that operation. To change to a different gauge is as follows:
Station #1 Resize and deprime. Just change the resize ring to the gauge you are going to load. To adjust the ring, screw it on as high up as it will go then bring the handle down all the way. Bring the ring down to just touch the base and tighten the lock ring. There is no need to change anything else at this station.
Station #2 Reprime. I don't change a thing, I just utilize the 20 ga prime punch and kind of center the shell at the station. My primer seating spring is a bit worn and doesn't raise the seating pad as high as it once did so the primer just peeks above the pad. You can feel the primer hit the opening in the base of the hull. Just bring the handle down and seat the primer.
Station #3 Powder / wad / shot. Replace the wad fingers guide with the one of the proper gauge. Lift the old one up and pull forward, locate the correct one, align in the slot and push down. The charge bar will have to be replaced also, unless you are using an adjustable charge bar, then those adjustments will have to be made as well.
Station #4 Crimp starter. Snap off old one and snap on one for correct gauge and number of star points of shell. 12, 16, 20 gauges will have both 6 & 8 point crimp starters, 10 ga will have 6 points.
Station #5 Finished crimp. Note, this is the hardest station to change and it isn't really difficult. Replace the Cam Crimp Assembly. It consists of 3 pieces. Loosen lock nut on crimp punch and unscrew crimp punch completely and the whole assembly comes off. Get parts for correct crimp assembly and put together by exactly reversing the take off procedure. A tip that really helps speed the adjustment for this assembly is as follows: run the crimp punch up higher than you think is needed and leave the lock nut loose. Place a factory loaded shell (or a good handload) of the gauge and make you will be loading on station #5 and bring the handle assembly all the way down like you are trying to crimp that shell. Screw the crimp punch down 'til it is snug against the top of the shell then tighten the lock nut.
Another tip to keep things simple is to mark the parts as best you can for what gauge it is and keep a small box for the parts of each gauge.
By using this method I save a bit of money over buying a new press for each gauge or even buying a die set. I order the parts straight from MEC. I haven't looked up what new presses are bringing but I'm sure it is substantial. A new die set from MEC is $102.73 plus shipping, one from Ballistic products is $69.00to $80.00. By using my method and just buying the parts needed you can see the savings.
Resizing ring $5.33
Wad guide fingers 2.37
6pt crimp starter 4.13
8pt crimp starter 4.13
Cam crimp assembly 11.45
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Total 27.41 plus shipping
You will have to add in the price of a new charge bar or 2 but they do not come with the die sets either.

* I load 410 also but have a separate press 600 Jr. for that one.

Jack Kuzepski

[Dave Suponski]

Jack, Thank You for that great tutorial. There is another avenue to explore. I have gotton all four of my MEC machines used. Either from friends or at a local gun shop for greatly reduced prices. These machines can be had for little money if you search for them. Also I have all my machines mounted on their own bases so that when not in use can be easily stored.

[Paul Harm]

I like the adjustable charge bars. I have them for my Jr's and 650's. Paul

[Jack Kuzepski]

You are right about picking them up used, you can get them for a good deal less than new. My better half has a habit of looking thru my shop then asking why I need 2 shotgun presses (that I load 5 gauges on) when I only need 1 press to load rifle and handgun on, then why do I have to shoot so much and can't I get along with fewer...........
I do have an adjustable charge bar that I use for trying new loads and using if I don't have a bar for that load. It works great except for 410. With 410 you use so little powder the bar sometimes doesn't get under the powder bottle correctly and powder drops can vary. A couple months ago I picked up several charge bars in the larger sizes 1-1/2 oz to 2oz for the 600 jr. I bought them for like 50 cents each. In the shop I put some aluminum bar stock in my lathe and drilled a 5/16" hole thru the center then turned the outside to closely fit the shot holes for the large size bars and epoxied the spacers in place. When I need a bar for something specific, I use a taper reamer and open it up from the top, then stamp the shot weight and size on the end.

[Milton Starr]

Here the email I got from mec


Any shot size larger than #BB will need to be hand weighed and manual poured into the shell. This size is to large to feed through the shot tubes and will not weigh out correctly in the charge bars

[johncranack]

Good and excellent information! The Mec 600jr is better made more versatile. The given details are really valuable and very helpful. Thanks for sharing the useful information with us and keep sharing more.

[Paul Harm]

Even with the progressive press you need to grind or file the slot [ where the screw slides back and forth in ] longer so all of the powder hole in the bar will go under the powder bottle hole. I've found in my Mec 650 when useing a small amount of powder the bar wouldn't slide over far enough. Take off your bottles and look down through the powder and shot bottle holes to see if the bar is moveing far enough. With a 650 you'll then need to adjust the nut that moves the bar . I've done this on two of my Grabbers and on my Jr. which all have the adjustable bar. Paul

[Cal Lego]

Funny, I thought I was the only cheap b%%$**@* on this site. I too have only the minimum necessary items to switch from gauge to gauge. I have 4-Tupperware containers marked for each gauge and am religious about returning the stuff to the correct box after each gauge change over.

I don't use the charge bars as I've gotten used to using my old reliable Belding & Mull powder measure for the powder and (for the shot) either a Lee powder measure for the .410 loads or an adjustable Lee shot measure for anything 7/8oz. on up.

As an unexpected bonus, I have found that by adjusting the priming punch downward, I can push the center of the hull back down flat and tighten up the primer pocket in the process. This comes in handy when using Cheddite hulls in the .410. They seem to develop loose primer pockets easily.

[Jack Kuzepski]

Cal,

The operative word is "FRUGAL" not cheap. Like when I'm buying an old gun it is "used"; BUT when I'm selling it, it is "pre-owned". (LOL)

Jack Kuzepski
:D