Barrel Length and Forearm Question

[Rob Farolino]

Looking for a little help on Ser # 195050

Original barrel length?

Also, is there a trick to removing the forearm? It seems really tight and I don't want to risk breaking it.

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[David Livesay]

There is usually a line and blank space at the end of the barrel. I believe those barrels have been shortened. I've never removed a Trojan forearm but I'm pretty sure you pull the tip of the forearm away from the barrels to remove.

[Rob Farolino]

I should have noted, this is 20 ga current BL 26"

[Dylan Rhodes]

195050 should have 26” barrels.

[Greg Baehman]

Trojan forends, as you've found, require quite a bit of pressure to remove. This tool makes it easy:
https://parkerguns.org/forums/showthread.php?t=1531&highlight=forend+removal+tool

[Rob Farolino]

195050 should have 26” barrels.

Thank you very much!

Contrary to my initial thought they have not been cut. I was under the impression that the rib would have different markings the end. Learned something today.

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[Dylan Rhodes]

Well it should generally have a termination line, but not always. Without one you need to do further research and should be suspicious.

[Rob Farolino]

Trojan forends, as you've found, require quite a bit of resistence to remove. See this link:
https://parkerguns.org/forums/showthread.php?t=1531&highlight=forend+removal+tool


Thank you. Indeed, I have put just enough pressure on it to scare me.

I am new to the forum so not able to view this link. I will google forend removal tool.

[Rob Farolino]

Well it should generally have a termination line, but not always. Without one you need to do further research and should be suspicious.


My dad received this from a friend that owned it since the mid 1930's. It would have had to been changed before that which I feel is unlikely.

[edgarspencer]

Well it should generally have a termination line, but not always. Without one you need to do further research and should be suspicious.

Trojans are very often seen without the rib termination associated with graded Parkers

[Dylan Rhodes]

Sorry Rob I should have been more clear. Parker’s generally have the termination line but it’s not 100%. Without one you would have to consult a letter or the serialization book like I did. I am confident they should be 26”

[Dave Noreen]

When the Trojan was introduced the barrel length offerings were 28- and 30-inch in 12-gauge and only 28-inch in 16- & 20-gauge. The 1913 Flyer --

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Those were still the offerings in the 1916 catalog --

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By the 1923 catalog they added 26-inch barrels to all three gauges --

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With all the errors that have been found in that serialization book I'd want a PGCA letter for peace of mind!

[Harold Lee Pickens]

Nice little Trojan 20, I happen to like 26" barrels, and always on the lookout for one.

[Dean Romig]

Nice little Trojan 20, I happen to like 26" barrels, and always on the lookout for one.


I have one. Bought it from Russ Jackson about five years ago… I love it. The perfect Parker for upland birds in nasty weather.





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[Harold Lee Pickens]

I know, I saw that gun but you beat me to it. I have a VH and vhe 20 with 26 and my DHE 16 with 26

[allen newell]

Did you get the forend off yet?

[David Livesay]

When you get the forend off can you post a picture of the serial number on the barrels?

[Bill Murphy]

Dean, you have probably answered this, but, do you still have the forend wedges?

[Dean Romig]

Bill, I currently have one remaining but it’s spoken for.
I’ll try to get some more.





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[Rob Farolino]

I sent the funds to Mr Romig today for his last removal tool. Will advise once removed .
Thanks all for the input.

Rob

[edgarspencer]

I believe if you open the gun slightly, the fore end will come off more easily. Be sure you’re holding onto the barrels, so they don’t fall when the fore end comes off.

[Rob Farolino]

I believe if you open the gun slightly, the fore end will come off more easily. Be sure you’re holding onto the barrels, so they don’t fall when the fore end comes off.

Well sir, that did the trick, thank you. Once opened slightly I was able to remove the forend.
Good news is all number match. Bad news the barrels won’t release. Probably the first time it’s been apart in well over 50 years.
Any other tricks? It feels like there is some spring tension.

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[edgarspencer]

The cocking slide is not going fully forward, so that the cocking hook, on the barrels can release from the crank. Close the gun and fire both barrels, and it should now come unhooked.

[ED J, MORGAN]

When Edgar said fire he means with out any amo in gun '

[Rob Farolino]

When Edgar said fire he means with out any amo in gun '

I assumed that thank you. Sadly it didn't work. It actually created more tension when initially opening the action. Still stuck. Is there a safe lube I can apply before trying again?

[Rob Farolino]

Shot it a couple times with snap caps then sprayed it up pretty good with WD. Will wait a few days to see if it frees up.
Anyone know of a gunsmith familiar with Parkers in the Update NY - Buffalo area?



Rob

[edgarspencer]

:knowbetter: I guess I could have said 'drop the hammers'When Edgar said fire he means with out any ammo in gun '

[Greg Baehman]

Shot it a couple times with snap caps then sprayed it up pretty good with WD. Will wait a few days to see if it frees up.
Anyone know of a gunsmith familiar with Parkers in the Update NY - Buffalo area?



Rob

You shouldn't have used WD40 as it will gum up, attract dirt and eventually harden.

[Rob Farolino]

You shouldn't have used WD40 as it will gum up, attract dirt and eventually harden.


Any suggestions as to a better product?

[Greg Baehman]

There are many, I like Clenzoil and/or Rem Oil.

[Rob Farolino]

There are many, I like Clenzoil and/or Rem Oil.

Thanks. I generally use mineral oil which I will use once I get it apart. In this case I am hoping to dissolve whatever is in there now.

[Rob Farolino]

There are many, I like Clenzoil and/or Rem Oil.

Thanks. I generally use mineral oil which I will use once I get it apart. In this case I am hoping to dissolve whatever is in there now.

[Rob Farolino]

The cocking slide is not going fully forward, so that the cocking hook, on the barrels can release from the crank. Close the gun and fire both barrels, and it should now come unhooked.

Appreciate the input . Sadly wasn’t enough. What are your thoughts on loading up and actually taking a few shots with live ammo? Any chance that would loosen her up?

[Bill Murphy]

Couldn't hurt.

[Chuck Bishop]

Here is a plastic tool you can order to help remove the Trojan fore-end.

https://tandyleather.com/products/craftool-plastic-bone-folder?_pos=14&_sid=5b3b57246&_ss=r

[Rob Farolino]

I wanted to take a moment to thank all who responded. This gun has been sitting for years. I had never been able to find someone locally that could assist with getting it apart and cleaned up. Thanks to you guys and this forum, she's getting her just due.
I found an old post where wd40 had worked for someone with a similar issue. Sprayed it down yesterday. Lo and behold I came home from work today and the barrels about fell right off. Now cleaning off the WD and using proper lube to get this little gem up and running again.
Much appreciated!

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