Need some advice on my first lifter

[Chuck Bishop]

I purchased my first 12ga lifter today S/N 8036 and I need some advice.

The basics:

Grade 0

Stub twist barrels, 30", ring like a bell, minor pitting in each barrel.
Left barrel bore .746, choke .13 Right barrel .744 bore with .17 choke
Forcing cones look to be 2 5/8 with evidence of tool marks.

Straight grip stock, oil soaked at receiver but doesn't appear to be punky wood. Someone added checkering, poorly done and worn. I don't believe this gun had checkering when it left Meriden.

DAC 1 7/8", DAH 2 1/2". Not bad dimensions

Gun is slightly off face. I put in 1 piece of copy paper over the roll and it brought it tight.

Two questions for you lifter experts out there.

1. I'm concerned about taking the side locks off and possibly damaging the wood. I doubt that the side plates have been off in many years. What's the best way to prevent damage to the wood.

2. This has the 1 piece lifter and if I read the Parker Story correctly, this style of underlifter needs to be disconnected from the bolt before the floor plate can be taken off. Can anybody give instructions on how to do this?

Preciate the help!

[Robert Rambler]

Hi Chuck! Knock on wood, I never had a problem removing side plates. I believe the edges are filed with slight inward taper to get that nice metal to wood fit. After I get the Hammers off and the cross screw unthreaded. I gently tap on the head of the cross screw and the right side will begin to move out from the frame. When it's out far enough to clear the wood, a few gentle taps rearward will disengage the tang on the front of the plate and it's off. Now you can go throught the space between the stock and frame to tap the left side loose. There may be better ways but so far this has worked for me.

To remove the lifter you have to depress it until the bolt screw becomes visable.
Remove the screw,push the bolt forward and the lifter will fall out,push the bolt rearward to remove it, and the spring above it will pop out. Here are some pics of a parts gun to illustrate. I don't know a dang thing about these guns but I hope this helps.:) Sorry for all this hot air,but after all the fun this weekend I guess I'm a little bored tonight!! Best as always, Bob

1. Associated parts.

2 Normal lifter position at rest.

3 Screw visable with lifter depressed.

[Chuck Bishop]

Thanks Bob

I got the side plates off no problem. Can you get at the screw for the lifter without taking the stock off?

Good seeing you, the wife, and the dogs this past weekend. Sure was fun!

[Robert Rambler]

Yep, can't get stock off untill the floor plate/bottom tang are removed. Can't unscrew the trigger guard with the lifter in the way. A small amount of wood is missing to allow space for the bolt to move rearward.

[Dave Suponski]

Robert, That was a great description on the disassembly of a lifter. One thing to remember on reassembly is to push the triggers forward as you are reinstalling the locks. This will ensure proper engagement with the sears.

Ya..It was great to see you and the wife this weekend along with the pup's

[Robert Rambler]

Excellent point Dave, I recall scratching my head on that one the first time I tried to reassemble a lifter! Side plates won't go flush until triggers slide under the sear, triggers will be bound up and possibly damaged if fault isn't noticed and the cross screw is tightened up.

It was great seeing all our friends from the North as well. My wife had a great time and made some new friends, (sounds like the girls had a real gabber going while we were out shooting):rotf: It was all over way too quick, but looking forward to next year.:cool: