Problem with removing barrel from receiver

[Joel Gustafson]

First of all I'm really impressed with this website. Very helpful and informative, and I know very little about Parkers.
I recently purchased my first Parker SxS 10 ga, N, 3, Twist, serial # 61068 at an estate sale. I'm pretty excited to add this to my collection. All my current guns are modern firearms. Everything appears to be original. The barrel, receiver, and trigger guard all have same serial # of 61068.

First question: would this be a Trojan? I don't really know how to tell.

Second question and my big problem: How do I remove the barrel from the receiver? I know, stupid question, but I just can't get the barrel from the receiver. I own many o/u and sxs shotguns and have never had this problem. The gun breaks open and locks up just fine. I've removed the forearm, and when I try to remove the barrel it just won't come off the receiver. I've even tried it with the safety both on and off thinking that might be it, but still no luck.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Bill Murphy]

Your gun is not a Trojan. It is an NH grade, which is identical to the PH grade except in the ten gauge. It is as listed in the Parker records if it has 32" barrels. The "3" is the frame size. The first step to attempt to remove the barrels is to dry fire the gun with the forearm off, then attempt to remove the barrels. Try this several times before you give up and go to step two. When the barrels come off, lubricate the cocking slide which will be visible in the slots where the barrels fit. The "hook" you see attached to the barrel lug contacts the slide and will not release if the slide does not move freely. If dry firing the gun does not release the hook, let us know.

[Joel Gustafson]

Bill, thank you for the information. I will try what you suggested when I get home tonight. I will let you know if I was successful in removing the barrel after the dry firing. Also, thanks for the info as to what model Parker I just purchased. I haven't shot the gun yet as I wanted to dissasemble first and give it a good clean and lube and to make sure it's in shooting condition. I'm pretty sure it is but better safe than sorry.

[Joel Gustafson]

Hi Bill, I tried the dry firing several times and still couldn't remove the barrels from the receiver. It's being pretty stubborn.
Any other suggestions?
Thanks.

[Dave Purnell]

Joel,

With the forend off, you should see a pin pop out just off the end of the frame near the hinge. This is the "cocking hook release pin". It is about 1/8" diameter, and should protrude about 1/4". If it is stuck, then the cocking hook will not release for barrel removal. Try applying some penetrating oil to the pin and work it in and out to loosen up. Don't use a metal object to push it in. Maybe a dowell, or the butt end of a screwdriver. If you can loosen up this pin, it should do it's job and allow barrel removal.

Dave

[Bill Murphy]

Where are you located. Maybe we could recommend someone to help who is close.

[Harry Collins]

Joel,

Just a word of caution about shooting your Parker. Please don't shoot modern 3 1/2" 10 gauge shells through this old girl. Parkers of that era had 2 7/8" chambers. You can find 10 gauge shells appropriate for your gun at www.rstshells.com and they are great game and clay loads. Most of us reload 2 7/8" shells by cutting down 3 1/2" shells and use Sherman Bell's data. If you are a reloader we will try to get the data to you. I do love my 10 gauge Parkers and hope you enjoy yours as well.

Kindest, Harry

[Joel Gustafson]

Hi Dave,
The cocking hook release pin will move in and out just fine, but the gun barrel still will not seperate from the receiver. I've tried several times and even my neighbor who is an avid shotgun hunter can't get it to seperate either. I appreciate the advice but I think I might need to take it to a local gunsmith who has knowledge of Parker shotguns. Thanks.

Bill, I'm located in Springfield, IL. If you know of any gunsmiths with Parker knowledge in this area I'd appreciate getting their info. Thanks.

Harry,
Thanks for the info on which shells are appropriate for this Parker shotgun. I was not aware of the info you provided so I appreciate the heads up.

[Gary Cripps]

A couple years ago I bought a VH 12 that had sat in a closet for the last 50+ years. I could not remove the barrels either. Thats when I found this site. After many suggestions like above someone suggested spraying the hinge area with WD 40 and let stand for several days. I did this with the forearm off and the barrels pointed down. After four or five days I worked the barrels on the hinge a few times and they slid right off. Thats when I found a large hard gob of old grease hardened up like asphalt in the reciever behind the hinge pin. Just another idea. Good luck.

[Joel Gustafson]

Gary, definitely worth giving the WD40 treatment a try. I'll let you know if that was it. Thanks for the idea.

[Alan Ebright]

I’ve shot 700 thru my 28ga Repro purchased in January. It had never been fired before I purchased it. Today I shot 50, and then at the next station, after firing both barrels independently, the barrels stuck shut. The top lever would move almost all the way to the right, but I couldn’t open the gun. Safety was stuck forward, and you could wiggle it a little bit, and the trigger would move in unison. This has a SST.
Once the gun cooled down, I took off the forend, and after a little finessing, it opened. However, when I move the top lever now, it’s not smooth. Kind of “skips” when I move it.
Thoughts?

[Bill Murphy]

If the lever was to the right and the safety was forward, there is probably an interference with the automatic safety operating rod. Those who know more than me can confirm or deny. Good luck. I would remove that rod any time a gunsmith had the gun apart.

[Alan Ebright]

I worked the top lever and open/closed the action a few times. Didn’t dry fire w the snap caps for fear it would lock up again. Everything worked, but the top lever motion feels gummy and the action is really tight.

[Scott Gentry]

Had exact problem with a 20 Repro, gun got hot and would not open. Needs to be taken down and get the dried up grease/ oil cleaned out and lightly re oiled at right spots. Would not be shocked to see it double on occasion, have had to do this to 3 different un-shot guns.
Find someone familiar with doubles and single triggers, not average gunsmith.

Good luck.

[Kenny Graft]

I just had this issue. The reason the gun would not release the barrel hook to remove the barrels. I think from sitting i a heated safe for extended periods the lube or oils dried up and froze two moving parts. The for end indicator shaft that protrudes out of the receiver was stuck in and the slider mounted to the belly plate was also not moving. SEE PICS This was an easy fix but correct screw drivers are a must and may need hand fitted to the screws slots so not to booger them up! SXS Ohio