Gun Evaluation Checklist (for beginners like me)

[Chris Pope]

I am still a rookie Parker fan and am about to purchase my 3rd Parker. I have always found checklists useful but understand many do not. Even with a checklist there are certain things that I don’t know what I’m looking at, in which case, I have been extremely fortunate to get some great advice from members here. So thank you PGCA for that!

Below is the draft checklist for beginners like me. I searched some previous threads (2014 and 2016) for help putting this together. I would welcome thoughts, edits, corrections and improvements. The intent is simply to have a guide for new folks to get started when looking over a possible Parker purchase. Thanks.

1. Does the gun fit?
2. Verify visible serial numbers
3. Look-up Serial Numbers- match subject shotgun?
4. Order factory letter from PGCA
5. Condition of screws
6. Butt Plate original? Fit?
7. Proper barrel finish/condition, dents, pits
8. Bore condition
9. Muzzle- keels, barrels cut?
10. Ribs, rib joints- loose? ring barrels (consider B.Dudley “oil in the crack of the rib test”)
11. Proper wood and wood finish
12. Checkering- mullered borders
13. Any cracks/chips/wood repairs
14. Butt plate original
15. Cap original
16. Metal finish and engraving
17. Top Lever operation and position
18. Lock up tight and on-face, with/without forend
19. Ejectors operate
20. Forend tight, latch operates
21. Trigger pull/Firing pins operate/trigger guard
22. Safety operates
23. Barrel wall thickness
24. Measure chambers
25. Chokes

[Dean Romig]

Putting those points in order of importance could help to eliminate many or most of the of them.

For instance, bore condition, wall thickness, chamber length originality, are of prime importance and if found not to be up to acceptability, would eliminate wasting time on the other points.





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[Chris Pope]

Thank you Dean- really appreciate the feedback.

[John Allen]

Chris, Your checklist is a good idea for new or experienced Parker buyers. You might want to organize it by components. Here is what to look for in the barrels,receiver,wood,etc. Another item that is critical to values is to determine to the best of your ability if the gun has original finish,restored,or just plain old redone. There is a huge difference in value between those 3 conditions.

[Garry L Gordon]

It’s a great and thorough list, but you forgot two important considerations: Can I afford it…and, will I stay married if I buy it. :)

[scott kittredge]

It’s a great and thorough list, but you forgot two important considerations: Can I afford it…and, will I stay married if I buy it. :)

the married part for sure:)

[Chris Pope]

It’s a great and thorough list, but you forgot two important considerations: Can I afford it…and, will I stay married if I buy it. :)

Well I always thought the consensus amongst PGCA members was that affordability was a very low priority somewhere behind is there a tiny wear mark on the stock. BUT, that staying married bit should probably be at the top of the list. Reminds me of a humor piece written by one of the famous outdoor writers (McManus, Hill MacQuarrie??) who suggested that one should always leave a couple slots open in the gun cabinet so your spouse never really gets a handle on the inventory. And once it gets to having only one empty slot left then you sneak a new cabinet/safe into the house...wish I could remember who wrote that piece.

[Chris Pope]

DRAFT 2 (based on input) And the format did not copy

1. Does the gun fit?
2. Verify visible serial numbers
3. Look-up Serial Numbers- description match subject shotgun?
4. Original finish, or restored, or redone?
5. Provenance documentation
6. Order factory letter from PGCA
7. Barrel Components:
A. Bore condition
B. Wall thickness
C. Chamber length
D. Measure choke
E. Proper barrel finish/condition, dents, pits
F. Muzzle- keels, barrels cut?
G. Ribs, rib joints- loose? ring barrels (consider B.Dudley “oil in the crack of the rib test”)
8. Wood:
A. Proper wood and wood finish
B. Any cracks/chips/wood repairs
C. Checkering- mullered borders
D. Forend tight, latch operates
9. Metal and Receiver:
A. Metal finish and engraving
B. Lock up tight and on-face, with/without forend
C. Condition of screws
D. Top Lever operation and position
E. Ejectors operate
10. Miscellaneous
A. Butt Plate original? Fit?
B. Cap original
C. Trigger pull/Firing pins operate/trigger guard
D. Safety operates

[Garry L Gordon]

I’m “appropriating” your excellent list. Thanks for working this up.

As for value, my credo has always been, buy high…and never sell. That way, no one knows you’re a crappy negotiator. :)

[Chris Pope]

Chris, just buy a ''FOX'' And you don't Need a Check List

Harry

Whatsa "FOX"? I think it was a model that Audi came out with years ago?...

:)

[Paul Ehlers]

This is a good list, but I'm with Dean on this one. My rule of thumb after years of making mistakes is: Buy the barrels first! If the barrels have major problems with some caveats, walk away from the gun.

The caveats would be minor dents that can be easily raised, slight surface rust on the outside of the barrels that could be taken care of with some TLC or a re-blue.

If the ribs are loose, there's a bulge or excessive deep pitting in the bores, the lettering & roll stamps are struck off or the lettering stretched from buffing etc. leave the gun right where you found it. The repairs on these items can make a deal on the front side turn into a gun your buried-in real fast. The companion question to this is: Is it a project gun or one you can live with the way it is? The answer to that question will affect the price to pay for it.

Another question I ask myself. Is this the gun I truly want and am looking for?

I can't tell you how many times I've spent my gun money on an impulse type buy, only to have the gun I was looking for come along shortly after I drained the gun fund on something I wasn't looking for.

[Garry L Gordon]

I can't tell you how many times I've spent my gun money on an impulse type buy, only to have the gun I was looking for come along shortly after I drained the gun fund on something I wasn't looking for.

Amen, to that!

[Mike Koneski]

Chris, just buy a ''FOX'' And you don't Need a Check List

Harry

Nobody shoots Foxes.

[Mike Koneski]

Chris, when buying any vintage double, you’re buying the barrels.

[Aaron Beck]

If youre serious about evaluating a parker and possibly returning it after inspection, get a C&R. All the necessary evaluating just doesnt work in a typcial transfer scenario.

[Paul Ehlers]

If youre serious about evaluating a parker and possibly returning it after inspection, get a C&R. All the necessary evaluating just doesnt work in a typcial transfer scenario.

I agree with the one.

Colorado in some ways did me a big favor when Universal background checks become the law here. What this did was make me get off dead center and get my C & R 03-FFL license, almost instantly I realized how dumb it was for not getting it years before.

Don't get me wrong. I dislike the universal background check deal, but having the C & R lets me have qualifying guns shipped directly to me & the cost for the three-year license is less than one FFL transfer fee & I don't have to deal with some gun shop that primarily deals in black guns that doesn't know squat about vintage guns or how to handle them carefully. Another benefit is you can have your FFL in hand when you go to a shipper to ship a gun. This day & age that's a plus in my book. Like Aaron mentioned, it lets you inspect the gun faster and return it if needed in an inspection period.