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View Full Version : Intentional Stock Cracking


Theodore LeDurt
04-14-2011, 09:06 PM
As mentioned on a previous post, my DH 12ga straight stock had no cast and a 3 1/16" drop. After a double steam bending session it now has 1/4" cast and 2 3/4" drop at the heel. This is still to much drop as my optimum drop seems to be anywhere between 2 1/2" to 2 1/4".

A friend told me of a famous stocker from Berlin, Wisconsin, who is now deceased, but apparently he would crack the stock in the wrist, through the checkering, and had a system of setting the stock to the proper measurements and then repaired the stock so completely the crack was not visible and the stock was actually stronger in the wrist area.

Tonight I found a stock man who is an experienced stock wood splicer and he is willing to do my stock, I just wondered if anyone else had tried this and if you were happy with outcome? Also did the stock have clean lines after the reset?

Thanks.

Dean Romig
04-14-2011, 09:18 PM
JMHO but I think I'd sell it and buy another that fit me better than to do that to a nice Parker.

John Dallas
04-14-2011, 09:31 PM
The best things to come out of Berlin,WI are Russell boots.

Bruce Day
04-15-2011, 08:34 AM
Sounds like a fractured fairy tale to me.

Did the fellow's demise have anything to do with breaking some Parker owner's stock?

There is a way which is similar. A short or bad buttstock can be cut at the back end of the wrist by the checkering border and a new section spliced in. This is less expensive and saves the intricate and inletted head and wrist checkering. There are a few experts who do this and on the ones I've seen, the wood match is good , the splice line cannot be seen unless pointed out and you knew to look for it.

ED J, MORGAN
04-15-2011, 08:43 AM
I would add a small pad to the top of the stock. One could also add wood to the top of the comb.

Tom Carter
04-15-2011, 08:54 AM
I have used the comb pads on a number of stocks and find them very effective. In addition to raising your head they also provide releif from the comb smacking you in the cheek. And I prefer comfort to pain.

A word of caution. When you remove the pad do it very slowly and use a heat gun such as a hair dryer to release the glue from the wood. I carelessly removed a pad and pulled splinters from the top of the comb.

Another method is tape the pad on with black electrical tape. The tape holds the pad securely and does not damage the stock when removed. It also allows you to try the pad in different locations until you get it where you want it. Tom

Bruce Day
04-15-2011, 09:09 AM
Roger Giles used to make custom cheek pads from layers of cardboard and duct tape. I don't think he charged very much for it and I suppose if a person could borrow a pen from the local feed and grain store, he could draw woodgraining on the cardboard.

Larry Frey
04-15-2011, 09:20 AM
There is a way which is similar. A short or bad buttstock can be cut at the back end of the wrist by the checkering border and a new section spliced in. This is less expensive and saves the intricate and inletted head and wrist checkering. There are a few experts who do this and on the ones I've seen, the wood match is good , the splice line cannot be seen unless pointed out and you knew to look for it.

David Trevallion details what he calls a "Butt Transplant" in his book "Shotgun Technicana" where by he slices off the old butt in the rear of the checkering and splices in a complete new back end. The checkering hides the joint and you maintain the important part of the original stock including the stamped serial number. With this method you can create whatever dimensions you desire. I have seen examples of this in his shop and it is nearly impossible to detect even if you are looking for it.

Bruce Day
04-15-2011, 09:32 AM
Yes butt, given the significant cost of the butt splice and if I only needed a 1/4" , I think I would arrange an appointment with Roger Giles, custom stockmaker. Or just creep up on the stock another 1/2 " when I bring the gun up.

I've seen good shooters adapt to about any drop gun that they pick up. I have Parkers that range from 2" to 3" DAH and I shoot them all equally poorly.

Drew Hause
04-15-2011, 10:31 AM
Chuck's "Butt Transplant" tutorial, a pic of David's work, and one that went terribly wrong here
http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/16839920

Pete Lester
04-15-2011, 10:44 AM
You need to be real careful when considering a butt implant like that. :-)

http://www.nydailynews.com/news/2011/02/08/2011-02-08_woman_dies_after_butt_implant_procedure_tourist _underwent_backdoor_silicone_surg.html

Theodore LeDurt
04-15-2011, 01:52 PM
Just out of curiosity, I remeasured the dah and it is now back to 3", although the cast off remained.

I found someone who is can utilize the two methods described, but have opted out for the one Bruce described, which is basically adding wood along the comb and removing it from the bottom of the stock. Hopefully it works out, and I can post pics. Thanks for all the suggestions.

Bruce Day
04-15-2011, 02:28 PM
After bending a stock, it is not uncommon that they return to their original drop after a while.

Theodore LeDurt
04-16-2011, 06:58 PM
Bruce, I wish I knew that before incurring the expense.

This whole stock "cobbling" process is a pain and expensive, but I'm picky on stock dimensions, can't afford a bespoke gun, and it seems to be the price I have to pay to shoot a Parker and thus, keep in good standing on the site.

Frank Cronin
04-16-2011, 07:17 PM
After bending a stock, it is not uncommon that they return to their original drop after a while.

Just curious, how long is "after a while"?

Dean Romig
04-16-2011, 07:46 PM
From what I've heard Frank, anywhere from several months to several years.