Correcting Timing on Roll Pin Screw Slot

[Jerry Harlow]

Gentlemen,

I'm seeking advice on correcting the timing on the screw slot on the roll pin, when it cannot be simply turned into its proper position. Obviously the assumption is also that it has been out and back in at some time to be out of time to start with, but one never knows how many decades ago that was done. What is the secret? I've corrected one in the past by simply turning it but have never taken one of these out before and know many of you have. Don't want to screw it up.

Thanks.

[Dave Suponski]

Jerry, I would chuck the screw in a lathe and face off a little material from the underside of the screw head. But be very carefull as only a couple of thousands will move the screw head a fair amount. Trial and error a little at a time.

[Jim Akins]

Jerry the pin (the part the screw fits into) has been out and not indexed correctly. To fit correctly without messing with the screw you will have to mark the head of the pin ( use a marking pen) to index with the screw, remove it and re-insert it so the screw is indexed right. Probably the answer above is easier to do.:banghead:

[Carl Brandt]

Jerry,

It's not all that difficult to remove the roll pin. You must have a proper screwdriver to remove the screw without messing it up. Mark the head of the roll pin as suggested above. Then insert a brass drift that will go all the way to the bottom of the threaded hole in the roll pin. Gently tap the roll pin out until it can be rotated by hand to the correct position. If when you re-insert the screw it is still not perfect, repeat to your satisfaction. I use a brass faced hammer to re-seat the roll pin.

[Brent Francis]

I probably shouldnt confess this but it worked great on a Dh I have. I made a little washer out of some thin plastic sheeting cut it out with an exacto knife so it is hidden behind the the bolt head and adjusted the thickness of the washer by sanding so that now the bolt fits tight, is indexed and the washer doesnt show at all.

[Jerry Harlow]

Thank you for all of the replies. I was most interested in partially pushing the pin out or taking the pin out completely, timing it correctly and then reassembly.

I did not know if it was wise to back the slotted part of the pin perhaps halfway out and then using a nylon punch or small nylon hammer to gently tap the slotted head to dislodge the pin toward the right side, so it could be adjusted by turning, having been marked in advance, much as one drives out a pressed in stud by backing the nut to the top of the bolt and driving it out.

I see many guns that have been reassembled with most of the screws out of time, even ones with the Roll Pin head on the right side, and yet no one will take the time to try to correct these items on an otherwise good looking piece.

These all are great advice, and if anyone has any more "tricks" I would be interested. I am sure there are pins that are frozen in place and do not come out without greater difficulty. I would have to think penetrating oil placed days in advance may help the situation.

[Dave Suponski]

Jerry, The joint roll screw is over an inch long. If you really need to try and remove it I would insert a drill blank or drift punch in the screw hole and use a press. Some joint roll pins are a real tight press fit. Be careful.

[Jerry Harlow]

I can see why they remain out of time. I've tried to turn the screw using the proper size Brownell's bit with both the Brownell's handle as well as a Chapman ratchet attached to the bit and it would not budge. In my estimation the receiver I have had the roll pin inserted incorrectly before the receiver was recase colored and the pin will probably stay as is forever since to turn the screw slot with even more pressure is going to result in some damage somewhere. Has anyone else experienced this and what is the solution other than just quitting? Thanks.