Trojan stock

[Glen Adkins]

Still unsure of the original finish on a 1926 grade zero Trojan stock. A variant of French polish?

[Dean Romig]

This is a Trojan stock.
The Trojan is not a grade 0 it is lower than a grade 0.
Is this your buttplate and grip?
Yes, it would have had Parker’s variation of French polish originally.


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[Dean Romig]

The Trojan did not have a grade classification number.

The VH was the grade 0
The PH was the grade 1
The GH was the grade 2
The DH was the grade 3

…and so on.





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[Glen Adkins]

Exactly what I have. Mine even has the same chip on the buttplate. Still learning the guns I have and thanks for the quick tutorial and pics. Very much appreciated!

[Garry L Gordon]

Trojans are great guns…and the good Mr Romig is a great source of information.

[Dean Romig]

Well thank you Garry.




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[Glen Adkins]

The barrels appear new and it locks up very tightly. Surface rust on the barrels and receiver but no pitting that I can find yet. I am anxious to disassemble and se the inside condition. Still undecided on how to proceed on the rust removal, but will post pics when able. Cheers.

[Dean Romig]

Use Big45 Frontier pads for the rust with Ballistol or Hoppe’s
Do not use abrasives.





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[Alfred Greeson]

Order a fore end tool from Dean, it is a little ingenious item to take off the fore end on a Trojan or any tough fore end without damaging the wood or scratching the barrels. One of his hidden talents.

[Joseph Sheerin]

There is something really cool about finding a nice trojan in excellent original condition. Those guns were typically hunted hard, abused, etc. So, finding a 100 yr old trojan that wasn't, is very cool IMHO.

[Glen Adkins]

Will post pics when I'm further along. I love the craftmanship of these purpose made guns. The dilemma I'm currently considering is the best way to "conserve" the pan, nitre blued parts, and case hardened parts. They are covered with the typical oiled rust "patina". I am concerned too much handling or rust conversion methods will dull the already weak Parker Bros inscription or make the outside just appear to be in the white. The case hardening colors on unexposed areas still carry the original colors which I would like to keep if possible. All the visible screws look as if they have maybe been removed once. Any words of wisdom appreciated.

[Dean Romig]

Use Big45 Frontier Pads along with Hoppe’s or Ballistol.
The Frontier Pads Will Not harm the original finish in ANY way. Use it with confidence - I do.






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[Glen Adkins]

Excellent. Thank you.

[Russell E. Cleary]

Work slowly. Don't rush the job. Look and admire along the way.

You can't undo over-cleaning an antique.

Honest wear is respectable.

[Glen Adkins]

Taking it very slowly. I don't want to restore, but stop the rust. I was amazed at areas on the barrels that I thought would lose the blue when cleaned but instead was rewarded with the original blue underneath. The nitre blued stock screws really got me. Beautiful color. The more I get into this Trojan the more I love it. What is the plain jane butt stock plate made of? Hard rubber? Bakelite? How can one treat for conservation?

[Dean Romig]

The first ones that came out in 1913 were made of gutta percha. Don't know if PB stayed with that until the end of Trojan manufacture or if they changed to bakelite at some point...





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[Glen Adkins]

This is what happens to the kitchen table when the wife goes on vacation...
Here's a good pic showing what I am up to. Gorgeous case hardened colors internally, but the outside of the receiver... I will need help with complete disassembly but can find no guide but for stock removal instructions. Is there a link? Does this appear to be the original finish on the stock? Thanks for the help and advice.

[Dean Romig]

It looks like the original finish to me.

You better clean that up before your wife gets home... (words of experience.)





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