Opinions on Ithaca NID gr2 16ga.

[Joseph Sheerin]

So, for a long time now I have been looking for an Ithaca g2 or 3 16ga with IC/M chokes and 26" barrels. Back in December, one was posted on GB and it was exactly what I was looking for, although pics were sorta of blurry. I talked to the guy, he said gun was in very good shape, but not much more. I threw out a bid I would be very happy with, and actually got the gun for a lot less than my max bid. So figured it was worth a shot, full well knowing the gun might have an issue or two, and I might have to have some work done.

Anyway, after my check getting stalled in Chicago for three weeks, finally picked it up yesterday. First off, very happy with the purchase. It is configured exactly like I wanted pretty much. 26" Barrels, IC/M, double ivory beads, and a 14.25" LOP. Barrels have some bluing loss from carry, bores are mirror bright, barrels ring, tight on face, etc.

Here are some pics.

[Joseph Sheerin]

Couple more.

[Joseph Sheerin]

Now here comes the bad... I don't think it's all that bad, but something I will likely want to address.

For some reason, someone decided to adjust the trigger guard, "scrunching" it forward for lack of better term, and drilling a hole, and shooting a new screw into it.

Was wondering what you would do with this. My thought, have gunsmith tig weld shut the new hole... maybe re-engrave the "0" and bend it back to shape it should be. As you can see in pics, rear trigger is barely off back of guard.

One other thing, the top lever, it has a fishtail sort of bend to it, but would otherwise be LOC I believe. Not sure if the owner did this, or that was an option you could get on an NID G2. Gun is a 1938 gun with 2 3/4" chambers.

[Joseph Sheerin]

One other question, the recoil pad is coming apart where the black spacer meets the red rubber. I can either replace with repro from Galazan's, or reglue the original. If I go with the former, what size does the 16ga require, looks like the Large to me, on the latter, what sort of glue would you use to re-glue the original pad?

[Brian Dudley]

The wood has been heavily re-“varnished” at one time.
The method of repair for yhe guard that you mentioned is the way to go. Really yhe inly way short of leaving it.
The top lever is likely just bent. They are kind of thin in the middle. Maybe the gun was dropped when it was open at one time.
Shoe glue would be finenfor the pad.

[Drew Hause]

There is also a slight gap at the head of the stock on the left side raising the possibility of a crack down the middle. Please let us know what you find.
Brian might comment of the blueing technique used on the action.

[Joseph Sheerin]

The wood has been heavily re-“varnished” at one time.
The method of repair for yhe guard that you mentioned is the way to go. Really yhe inly way short of leaving it.
The top lever is likely just bent. They are kind of thin in the middle. Maybe the gun was dropped when it was open at one time.
Shoe glue would be finenfor the pad.

Ya, I noticed that right away... And debating about what if anything I am going to do about it.

The guns feels like maybe a previous owner had big hands, big fingers maybe? Not sure why else you would adjust the trigger guard in such a way.

Ok, that makes sense on bent lever, honestly it sort of works fine the way it is, much like a fish tail lever... I am not going to worry about that.

Is that shoe glue, like a hot glue, or is there something out there that's just in a tube?

I have some timberluxe.... I have thought of stripping and refinishing the wood with that, I believe stock removal isn't too hard on an NID. Just remove the Trigger guard, the tang screws, and two trigger plate screws making sure not to lose the spring.... It's shiny like a new penny with that varnish....:eek:

[Joseph Sheerin]

There is also a slight gap at the head of the stock on the left side raising the possibility of a crack down the middle. Please let us know what you find.
Brian might comment of the blueing technique used on the action.

I don't really see or feel a "gap". there is a minor possible hairline crack there though.... If I remove the stock, I'll inspect the head, and go from there.

[Kevin McCormack]

Joe, the person who did that to your trigger guard HAS to be related to the moron who did the exact same thing to the guard on my 16 ga. 0 frame AH Damascus gun - there would be a perfect DNA sequence match between the two of them!

[Dave Noreen]

If that is a proper, period correct, recoil pad with the legend "PAT. APPL'D FOR" at the bottom of the logo on the face --

91883

I'd do everything possible to save it. The repros are of the post war style with the word "PATENTED". From its introduction in 1932 through the end of NID production in 1948, the Ithaca "Bridge Trestle" Pad was only offered in the medium size. NID Magnum-10s, if found with an original recoil pad, usually have a seven-slot Jostam Anti-Flinch or a 15-heart Hawkins. By 1950, when they changed to the aluminum base of the pad it was offered in medium and large. The repros from Kings Ferry were offered in both sizes.

Have you had a chance to weigh your new toy? I have a similar 1941 vintage No. 4E, 16-gauge, 26-inch, ic & mod, that is quite the little chunk at 7 pounds 2.6 ounces.

[Phil Yearout]

Sure is a pretty gun; hope you get the details worked out to your liking!

[Harold Lee Pickens]

Very nice. yeah i would fix the trigger guard, wonder why in the heck they did that. I have a 20ou with a bent top lever worse than that, but still functional, cant imagine how much force it would take to do that. How much does it weigh? Like Researcher, I have a 4E 16 that is a bit on the heavy side for a 16.
Kind of kept my eye out for a Grade 2 20, for some reason I was talked out of my Grade 3 Crass 12 damascus

[tom tutwiler]

Had the exact gun for the most part about 10 years but with 28" barrels. For me for a Grouse gun I thought it was just too heavy for the gauge. Compared to the lightness of a Fox 16 gauge it just wasn't my cup of tea and I moved it on. It did however have nice engraving and very nice wood.

[Garry L Gordon]

That little bit of weight just might be the right thing to keep those 26" barrels moving. Nice gun. I hope you can correct the things that you note.

[Joseph Sheerin]

Joe, the person who did that to your trigger guard HAS to be related to the moron who did the exact same thing to the guard on my 16 ga. 0 frame AH Damascus gun - there would be a perfect DNA sequence match between the two of them!

Did you fix it, or just consider it as part of the history of the gun, no matter how ugly that history may be.... :D The ONLY thing I can think of as to why, the guy had big fat hands. Doing this allowed for a bigger finger in the trigger guard, and a bigger hand between back of trigger guard, and bottome of grip..... Other than that, I cannot fathom why anyone would willingly take a drill to an Ithaga G2 trigger guard....

[Joseph Sheerin]

If that is a proper, period correct, recoil pad with the legend "PAT. APPL'D FOR" at the bottom of the logo on the face --

91883

I'd do everything possible to save it. The repros are of the post war style with the word "PATENTED". From its introduction in 1932 through the end of NID production in 1948, the Ithaca "Bridge Trestle" Pad was only offered in the medium size. NID Magnum-10s, if found with an original recoil pad, usually have a seven-slot Jostam Anti-Flinch or a 15-heart Hawkins. By 1950, when they changed to the aluminum base of the pad it was offered in medium and large. The repros from Kings Ferry were offered in both sizes.

Have you had a chance to weigh your new toy? I have a similar 1941 vintage No. 4E, 16-gauge, 26-inch, ic & mod, that is quite the little chunk at 7 pounds 2.6 ounces.

Gun weighs in at 6lb 7.03 oz. About 7oz heavier than my Philly Fox 16ga.

And, yes it has the period correct Butt pad, and is in decent shape and will be saved. I just need to glue the top and bottom that has separated about 1" on each end. Other than that, it's in very good condition for a 1938 but pad. I store the gun horizontally, so it should remain in good condition while I own it.

[Joseph Sheerin]

I talked to Eric at Helix gun smithing in Arnold MO, he seems to think he can tig weld the trigger guard, and get it back close to original condition.

As for the varnish that was applied... Suggestions for carefully removing that?

I've used citristrip before to remove old finish like that, and then I have some timberluxe I can use.....