Recut checkering on Parker forend

[Cameron Thraen]

I am starting a winter project to recut the checkering on my 1893 Parker GH S#78013. Worn smooth, but still visible. First off I need some advice on making a cradle to hold the forend wood. Any photos would be helpful. I do not need a full cradle, just something that is solid and will allow me to work on the forend.

{As I am getting into this project I will also separate the stock and receiver so that I can check for hidden splits or cracks, excess oil in head of stock and clean all the internals. Did not originally plan to do this, but here in Ohio it is a long winter and this provides a needed diversion.}

Parker GH S#78013 12b No. 1 frame shipped to Powell & Clement Co. Cincinnati Ohio on July 22, 1893.

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61546_500x375.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/61546_500x375/)

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61668_500x375.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/61668_500x375/)

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61669_600x400.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/61669_600x400/)

[Steve Huffman]

Go to Facebook and look up BMD gunstocks if I remember he has some videos , If you have FB . Thats Brian Dudley site ! Hope this was ok Brian

[Robert Brooks]

Beautiful wood ! Bobby

[Brian Dudley]

I have built a few checkering cradles over the years. I am currently on cradle 3.0 which is a modified versacradle from Berry manufacturing.

For forends I used to just use a large round dowel (like a ladder rung) with a flat cut on it and I would just tape the forend to it with painters tape. It worked fine.

The PGCA owns, in their collection, an original checkering jig from the Meriden factory for holding forends. It was on display at the NE maybe 5 years ago and I photographed it with the intension of building one. Earlier this year I made a forend jig for my versacradle that was based on that Meriden factory jig.

Here is a photo of the jig that I built. I have used it for a number of other types of forends too, not just parkers. I dont still have a photo of the factory jig on my phone or I would post one. Maybe tomorrow once I get back to my computor if I think of it.
And yes, if you see my FB page, there is more on there about it. I think I posted a few videos explaining my checkering cradle setup.

90116

90117

[Brian Dudley]

Here are some photos of the factory forend checkering jig. This would have been able to be clamped in a vice.

[Cameron Thraen]

Brian, thanks. This is very helpful. I will make one this week. I looked at the Versacradle but too expensive as a project investment. I will make a base like the one in the Parker photos. Appreciate the assistance. Really like your FB pages.

[Brian Dudley]

See here the high tech and intricate design of my first forend mounting jig. I used this for years.

90133

[Cameron Thraen]

My checkering cradle. Thanks to Brian. This will work just fine. Question? My Parker is a 1893 production gun. I have counted the lpi and I get 18. Is this correct? I can get 16 if I do not count the border lines.
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61677_500x375.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/61677_500x375/)

[Brian Dudley]

A GH should not be 16. 18 sounds good. They can vary from 18 to 22.

[Cameron Thraen]

The mullered border. On my forend this border is completely or nearly filled with finish. Without giving away hard earned trade secrets any advice on how to go about removing this finish and restoring this border?

[Chuck Bishop]

The finish should be shellac so alcohol should remove it. Can't help you with the cutting the border.

[Cameron Thraen]

Thanks. I am thinking the finish has been refreshed with a BLO sometime in the distant past. I will clean it and remove as much as possible without a complete removal.

[Brian Dudley]

The borders on original parkers are lightly cut and are the first things to wear. Cleaning out the finish will not change the condition of the borders. They will have to be recut.

[matt koepnick]

Played in the shop a little today. Managed to some what produce a copy of Brian's cradle .had to guess at dimensions and etc.seems to be a very solid set up. Having recut several wornout pieces without having this item,I can't wait to try it out.what a blessing this is. My thanks to Brian for sharing his set up.

[Brian Dudley]

I will let you know where to send the royalties to.

Looks good.

[Cameron Thraen]

Cleaned off old finish today. Of course this revealed a split that will be sealed and closed up. Then I can start on the checkering recut.

[Craig Budgeon]

A cheap tool that one of the local pros use is fabricated from an extra long 4-40 or 5-40 screw. Generate an approximate 1/2" radius to the screw, heat works, and remove the head. Drill hole in wood dowel and epoxy the screw in the hole. I have used a 1/8" die sinkers file for many years. I ground half the file away so I could see where I was going.

[Cameron Thraen]

Craig, thanks for the reply. See next post.

[Cameron Thraen]

Craig, thanks for the reply. Will your provide some more detail or context as I am having difficulty visualizing your description of this tool? Thanks.

[Cameron Thraen]

I have cleaned the finish from the fore end and I have identified a split in the knuckle end ear that I will have to close up before proceeding with checkering.

There is a small amount of oil in the wood at the knuckle end that I would like to extract as much as possible without discoloring the wood. Any and all suggestions welcome. I have removed oil on another project gun (Lefever) but in that case I was able to work with the entire fore end wood and not just one end.

Fore end with finish removed:
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61689_500x375.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/61689_500x375/)

Fore end split at the knuckle ear:
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61688_500x375.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/61688_500x375/)

[Cameron Thraen]

I have acquired a set of Dem-Bart checkering tools with a number of bits. I am also making a flat bottom checking tool following the method by Larry Potterfield on Midway YT channel. Any idea where I might find a mullered cutter? I believe that DB made one labeled the BV-N. Have not been able to locate this cutter on ebay. Suggestions welcome.

[Craig Budgeon]

Cameron, take a 1/2" wood dowel 4" long. Drill a 1/8"hole in the center of the dowel 1/2" deep. Now take a 4-40 or 5-40 screw at least 1-1/4" long and generate a 1/2" radius using a propane torch. Epoxy the screw in the dowel and allow it to cure. Its ready for use. The die sinker file I use is German and will set you back about $40. Mine was given to me. I would not recommend the cheap Chinese die sinker files for mullered borders.

[Jim DiSpagno]

I have found that refinishing the wood prior to recuttingthe checkering gives a better job and the checkering comes out better then light finish on new checkering so as not to clog up.

[Brian Dudley]

Parker checkering is NOT flat bottomed. That video by potterfield was not accurate in stating/doing that on that gun.

A mullered border can be cut with a dembart concave border cutter. Or with a U-gouge. Or by using the altered machine screw that craig describes. Or even a rifler file can use used.

[Cameron Thraen]

Thanks to all. Craig I now have what you are describing fixed in my head. Appreciate the clarification. Do you have a photo? That would be useful.

Brian, thanks. I will add a comment to Potterfield YT channel on this error. Save me the time and expense of making a flat bottom cutter and messing up my Parker. Really appreciate it as drill rod is cheap, 01 Swiss checkering file is decidedly not.

So, what did the Parker Bros use to create the flat top checkering ? A 60 degree single line cutter?

[Cameron Thraen]

Just thinking ahead. Any advice on using alkanet root as a stain on this Parker? I have read quite a lot on AR as a stain to get that red tone but I am not sure about using it on my 1893 Parker? I do not make my own of course but am aware that a product by S.B. McWilliams can be purchased on eBay. Looking for your advice. Thanks.

A note: On my project gun from last winter (Leftover G S#47216: Stock repair- yikes on the Double gun forum) I used Brownell's Pilkington spirit stain and then multiple hand rubbed coats of Velvit Oil. Turned out very satisfactory.
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61544_500x375.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/61544_500x375/)

[Brian Dudley]

Clear Stain?... How does that work?

[Cameron Thraen]

Brian, that is an oxymoron for certain. Good catch. Typed 'clear' when what I needed to type is Pilkington Spirit Stain. Sorry for the confusion. I like this stain when applied sparingly. Not sure it would be correct or right for my early Parker.

[Brian Dudley]

In my mind actual stain should only be used to cover up patches of sap wood, or to blend a repair in or something like that. Or to match a butt to an existing forend, or visa versa.

The natural color of any wood cannot be beat.

I will use Alkenet root in my sealer coats to get a tint of color into the wood, but the difference is only slight.

[Cameron Thraen]

Here are a few photos of the forend to display what I am working with on this project. Question? Should I finish the wood before tackling the checkering?

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61734_600x400.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/61734_600x400/)

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61733_600x400.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/61733_600x400/)

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61735_600x400.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/61735_600x400/)

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61736_600x400.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/61736_600x400/)

[Cameron Thraen]

Split cleaned, sealed and filled. This split is tight, not deep and does not reach the outside margin.

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61742_600x400.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/61742_600x400/)

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61743_600x400.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/61743_600x400/)

[Cameron Thraen]

Next up, a divot repair along the left barrel border. Length is 20mm. Photo shows depth. I have used AcraGlas in the past. Open to new ideas and advice.

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61744_600x400.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/61744_600x400/)

[Craig Budgeon]

Cameron, I do not do pictures. Brians right on stains unless you have cedar shingles on your home. That is a long divot and needs to be filled with closely matching wood not epoxy. The repair sliver should fit perfectly perhaps an 1 1/2" diameter sliver would work well. The exposed repair should have no sharp corners, only well fitted radiuses. Make sure grain direction is an exact match. Glue using instant clear glue, Its strong and the provides a very thin line. Secure with rubber bands while glue cures. Hide blemishes with artist oil paint and turpentine after final shaping.

[Craig Budgeon]

One other thing Cameron, leave the sliver a generous oversize. It only has to fit well with the original wood. Saws, files, and sandpaper will take care of final shaping.

[Cameron Thraen]

Craig, the missing piece has been away a long time as the remaining surface is worn almost smooth. Question, would you square off / clean up the mating surface to which the sliver is glued? Thanks for your interest and help. Appreciated.

[Craig Budgeon]

Cameron, we are not squaring off anything. Basically you are going to take an 1 1/2" dowel, wrapping it with 220 sandpaper, sanding at a 45 degree angle to the plane established by the 2 bore centerlines , and perpendicular to the discharge centerline. This will create a minimal uniform surface in the damaged area. Do not use commercial walnut dowels the grain direction is wrong. You have to make your dowel using either bandsaws, jigsaws, hand saws, or hole saws incorporating matching cardboard templates. Drawing this out on paper will help you get there. There should be no sharp corners making the repair this way.

[Craig Budgeon]

You can use Iron pipe, PVC, or any solid material to sand the damaged area as long as the templates match

[Cameron Thraen]

I add this photo to help show what I will be working with on this repair.

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61751_600x400.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/61751_600x400/)

[Craig Budgeon]

Firmly grip the forend before you begin sanding the diameter. Take your time, your going to get to look at your repair a lot longer than it took to make it.

[Craig Budgeon]

Picture a cylinder filling in the damaged area of the forend.

[Cameron Thraen]

Practice, practice and practice some more. Practice forend.
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61752_600x400.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/61752_600x400/)

[Brian Dudley]

In strongly recommend always checkering after finish. Others feel the opposite. But to each their own.

[Cameron Thraen]

I agree. This is my practice forend. Amazing how the cutter head has a mind of its own. Parker in the background. I am still trying to get my head around fixing the barrel border divot as described by Craig.

[Cameron Thraen]

Ok, clearly not the dowel but am I getting the idea? Use the actual walnut grain matching dowel to sand the barrel tunnel to have it's margin blend into the walnut dowel. Then using only a sliver of that dowel, glue it in and shape away any part to create a new barrel tunnel? Am I even close in my understanding?
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61753_600x400.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/61753_600x400/)

(Read Craig's response below. The orientation of the dowel is off 90 degrees)

[Cameron Thraen]

Just a note to those interested. The checkering on this 1893 G grade Parker appears to be 22 lpi.

[Craig Budgeon]

You have not got it. The cylinder of wood is perpendicular to the forend iron and is at a 45 degree angle to the plane formed by the centerline of both bores. Take a concave cardboard template of the 1 1/2 dia. and place it below the divot, so that all the damage is exposed, then draw a pencil line below it using the template as your guide. the area above the pencil line is the part your going to replace. By sanding at a 45 you reduce fitting time, it reduces mistakes, and is easier to hide. Matching the wood and grain are as important as the fit of the sliver. If you have an old buttstock,that matches, take a 1 1/2" holesaw and drill a hole through it. The waste will provide you with your sliver. Good Luck!

[Cameron Thraen]

Craig, now I think I have the image in my head. I was fixed on adding a sliver along the axis line of the forend margin. And I now understand why a walnut dowel will not work. I have a supply of walnut 1" blanks that I will use to cut out my 1.5" piece. I will mock up what I now visualize and post a photo before proceeding. Again thanks for your time and help.

[Cameron Thraen]

Craig, in the photo: on the right the 1.5 " diameter tool to sand the divot at 45 degrees. On the left the stock for the sliver to be glued in the sanded divot and shaped. Looking at the photo do I have this correct? If I now have it correct I will practice on an orphan forend piece before any attempt on my Parker wood. It is a long winter here and I have time to go slow.

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61776_600x400.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/61776_600x400/)

[Craig Budgeon]

Cameron, it looks like you are headed in the right direction. However your sliver selection could be improved color wise. I do understand that photographs can be misleading and you are the final judge.

[Cameron Thraen]

Craig, working on the color match. There is a shadow on the forend making it appear much darker. I have another question. Is the glue side of the sliver cut to match the angle of 45 degrees of the radius after sanding out the divot? Makes sense to me but I am not clear on this point.

[Craig Budgeon]

No, you make the sliver a generous oversize and concern yourself with making the glue oint perfect. Remember the finished repair is going to be very small and the grain is going in the correct direction.

[Cameron Thraen]

Got it. I will mock up one and practice before attacking the actual Parker repair.

Thanks, I appreciate your help. I am certain this will be appreciated by many other folks with dinged for end margins thinking of a proper repair.

[Cameron Thraen]

Getting closer.
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61784_600x400.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/61784_600x400/)

[Cameron Thraen]

Parker forend cleaned and ready for grain sealing, nicks filled, finish applied.
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61785_500x375.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/61785_500x375/)

Checkering to be recut
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61786_600x400.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/61786_600x400/)

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61787_600x400.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/61787_600x400/)

Fun.

[Craig Budgeon]

Cameron there are 2 reasons I use a 45 degree angle. One I can easily get a light source on the iron side of the repair and check fit (bore light works well). With a 45 I can move the sliver back and forth to match figure as best I can. Your wood appears to have no figure but someday you may need to match figure and with a 45 it is very helpful. Not only does a generous sliver help matching figure it also helps you to keep glue off your fingers and helps you to control a precise positioning of the sliver.

[Cameron Thraen]

Thanks. Any advice on filling in missing wood in the checkering pattern. (View the bottom photo above, right margin of release iron) On SxS of lesser pedigree I use a dab of appropriately colored a AcraGlas. On this Parker?

Also, any thoughts on using oxalic acid to remove some of the darker stains on this wood?
I have read about it but never used it.

[Cameron Thraen]

Craig, divot cleaned at 45 degree and generous sliver fit to the divot clean-out. Nothing glued just sitting in place in the photo. Am I on the right track with this repair?

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61791_600x400.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/61791_600x400/)
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61792_600x400.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/61792_600x400/)

[Craig Budgeon]

Cameron you took my advice literally on making the sliver a generous oversize. A fine saw will remove the excess in about 10 minutes. If the glue joint is ready, glue it. If you are using rubber bands to hold the sliver while the glue cures try the rubber bands before you glue. I think you may have to remove some of the excess in order for the rubber bands to help position the sliver.

[Cameron Thraen]

Craig, I am being quite literal until I am ready to glue. I made the generous sliver from a blank of 1/2" straight grain walnut and I will slice it into a few "slivers" giving me a few spares should I need them.

And I have yet another question. Bet you could see that coming. In gluing in the sliver do I angle it to match the 45 degree as in the photo or do I bevel the mating surface to keep the sliver upright (to the centerline of the forend)? Seems upright is correct to keep the grain direction correct. I am not clear on this aspect.

[Craig Budgeon]

Glue it as pictured, you may be surprised at how well it matches the forend when it is all shaped and finish sand. Not all blanks are cut the same way at the mills.

[Cameron Thraen]

Thank you. Will do.

[Cameron Thraen]

Craig, sliver cut, fit and ready to glue. I have Titebond III or CA Super T regular and gap filling. Any preference?

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61803_600x400.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/61803_600x400/)

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61802_600x400.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/61802_600x400/)

[Cameron Thraen]

Practice piece.
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61806_500x375.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/61806_500x375/)

[Craig Budgeon]

Never used either adhesive. I would choose the one that is clear if either one is.

[Cameron Thraen]

Craig, thanks. Based on my test piece I am going with the CA Special T. gap filling. Appears to work quite well. Stays in place, does not run and sets clear. I will post a pic when I set the sliver.

Sliver set.
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61847_600x400.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/61847_600x400/)

[Mike McKinney]

It may not happen, but the problem I would have with using CA glue would be the possibility of staining the wood darker as it penetrates the pores of the wood. The walnut may be dense enough so you won’t notice.

[Cameron Thraen]

Craig, I wish to sincerely thank you for your time and advice on this repair. I would not have even known where to start without your help. I have a decent library by respected gunsmiths such as Roy Dunlap, J. Howe, Miller and McIntosh & Trevallion and none of these cover this type of repair in wood. In fact going through my library I am surprised to find how many pages are devoted to wood finishing and how few to actual repairs in wood.

Here are a few photos from my work. I am pleased with the result. In finishing the wood I will get the new piece to blend in and the mating line to disappear. As a note the CA Super T ultra gap filling adhesive works great. Does not run, requires only a very small amount and has a 60-90 second working time.

My working setup
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61853_600x400.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/61853_600x400/)

Careful stock removal
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61852_600x400.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/61852_600x400/)

Finished repair
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61854_600x400.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/61854_600x400/)

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61856_600x400.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/61856_600x400/)

[Dean Romig]

Impressive! Very well done.





.

[Craig Budgeon]

Cameron, you did the work, you deserve the credit. Anyway, I didn't learn some of these tricks on my own, I was shown them by a cabinet maker a long long time ago.

[Cameron Thraen]

Continuing with my project. My checkering cradle. Cradle from MTB and mount system from RAM components. Solid with complete adjustability and movement. Spindle to hold forend copied from the one provided by Brian Dudley. Works great. I am currently practicing on an orphan forend.

For those interested in securing checkering tools this is what I have learned as I started out without a single checkering tool other than a couple of high quality rifflers. For checkering tools here is my experience. First, stay away from EBay for anything other than hard to find Dem-Bart NOS cutter bits. Sellers on Ebay and bidders must think these tools are scarce collector items. You will pay way too much. Second go to Jantz Knife Makers Supply in OK where you can purchase a Gunline Premier set for $150 or less. (Information learned from another PGCA member on this forum, thanks). They also sell individual GL handles at $8 ( Ebay sellers will ask and get upwards of $40 for a single handle). Dem-Bart cutters will fit the Gunline handles. Brownell's see thru checkering handle is no longer available however you can get the same tool from Ullman Precision Products. These are more expensive and the cutter is sold separately. Handle and one cutter will cost $100. High quality if you are thinking of working on many projects. Ullman cutters @ $45 come in 90 and 75 degree and four different lengths so you really need to know what you need before buying. Note, Wood Carvers Supply carries the Brownell type handle and cutters.

Should anyone have additional information to share I and I am certain others would welcome any and all advice and suggestions. My thoughts are aimed at those who, like myself, want a few tools to use to freshen-up existing checkering and perhaps give one complete checkering job a try to pass the winter hours. High end checkering tools for the professional with carbide cutters are readily available.

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/62006_600x400.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/62006_600x400/)

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/62007_600x400.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/62007_600x400/)

Practice and more practice...
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/62008_600x400.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/62008_600x400/)

[Cameron Thraen]

Finally after much thought and consulting of my wood finishing experts Flexner and Jewitt plus a lot of time experimenting with solvent based wood dye coloring I have achieved the best match I am able to produce for the walnut repair piece and the original Parker forend wood. My watercolor book, 600 Watercolors, by Sharon Finmark helped to get the right mix of yellow-red-brown to create the orange-brown color of the aged walnut. Next step is to begin the shellac finish application. And then on to what started this project... Recutting the checkering.

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/62066_500x375.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/62066_500x375/)

[Robert Brooks]

Cameron great info and i have found you can re sharpen Gunline and Brownell cutters easily with a knife edge file. Bobby

[Cameron Thraen]

Will you share more detail on doing this sharpening? Brand and size for knife edge file? How do you hold the cutter for sharpening? Other details for success? Thanks.

[Cameron Thraen]

I believe I have achieved the reddish color tone match using the alkanet red oil. Practice wood from the same period 1890's above with three applications, original Parker stock finish below.

I tried BLO as the first application on the other side of the forend and that produced a color tone with too much brown.

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/62096_600x400.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/62096_600x400/)

[Cameron Thraen]

I need some advice. As I make progress on my recutting of the checkering I have arrived at working on the mullered border. The first photo shows the original border with very little wear on the right. I have re-established the border on the left. The original border on the left consisted of a slight amount of original pattern in the form of lines and a slight border profile.

The second photo shows the tools I have for this work. The Dem-Bart cutters are 1) 2-28, 2) BC-N concave, 3) F1, and 4) 4-40 machine screw tool. And a curved blade knife.

As I continue along the checkering pattern I will be losing any pattern lines for the border as it has been completely erased by hand wear. This will make re-establishing the border more difficult.

I watched a YouTube video (MNR Custom, LLC) on this type of border and the fellow uses a 28 lpi cutter to establish the border lines for the mullered border (on a 22 lpi checkering pattern and not a Parker).

A couple of observations at this point.
1: the BC-N cutter is wide and aggressive so care is required to match the original border.
2: there are two lines, one on each side of the border, very thin. How are these cut? Which tool? (see #3)
3: I find that a 2-28 cutter will give me the required center line for the border. Is this a good means to center the border? (yes).
4: The BC-N is used to start the border and the 4-40 tool to finish the mullered border.

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/62216_600x400.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/62216_600x400/)

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/62217_600x400.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/62217_600x400/)

[Dean Romig]

If that picture is an example of your own cutting of a mullered Parker border, I think it is about perfect!!

It's not too wide, it's just right. Bravo!

Here's an original unretouched Parker mullered border. Granted, it's a Grade 4 but the grade makes no difference with the mullered border.
There were several different people employed by Parker and Remington during the various periods of production. A few of them employed a more pedestrian interpretation of mullering while the more expert of them employed the wider concave mullering.







.

[Chris Robenalt]

Cameron, I've never used a cradle or a concave cutter. I prefer holding and constantly turning my work as I checker. I use masking tape to lay out master lines. I freehand the muller border with a series of cutters and files. I prefer Dembart and Ullman. I've also made some of my cutters. I don't know if there's a right and a wrong way. I study other's work, if I like it, I'll try to duplicate their cuts. Depth of the cut is important. Your work is looking good! Take your time....

[Cameron Thraen]

For those interested, and following here are a couple of photos on my progress. The original border on this Parker is only +0.070 wide measured from thin outside border line to opposite border line. This is a 28 lpi pattern. The actual mullered border is even narrower.

This photo shows the worn smooth border on the left:
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/62270_600x400.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/62270_600x400/)

This photo shows my refurbished border on the right:
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/62272_600x400.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/62272_600x400/)

A few more lines to go. I need new eyes.

[Chris Robenalt]

Take your lines all the way to the border and back cut Cameron. It will make your checkering and borders really pop!

[Craig Budgeon]

I use an S-1 Dembart tool mounted so that the cutter cuts as it is pulled away from the borders and in very tight areas I use an metal engraving tool that is V-shaped to finish around the borders.

[Cameron Thraen]

Craig, Chris. Thanks. I have the DB S-1. Also set to cut on pull. I find it to be a cranky little bugger. I will look into the metal engraver tool. Any suggestion as to source ) vendor?

[Jim DiSpagno]

Dixie Gun Works had some nice ones at a fair price a while ago. Try them

[Cameron Thraen]

Parker mullered border progress. Center two short sections remain.

Left side, knuckle end. Original completely obliterated by wear.

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/62377_600x400.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/62377_600x400/)

[keavin nelson]

Cameron,
looking good, in areas where you have wood missing or a diamond breaks out, you can fix with a little acrylic gel and fine sawdust. I use a dental spatula (very small) to apply to the area. It drys quickly and you can recut the area.

[Cameron Thraen]

Keavin, thank you. As I am refurbishing and not redoing, as in sanding and replacing, your advice is very useful. Can you be more specific as to the acrylic gel? Are you referencing something along the lines of a glue? Or AcraGlas? Or something from the art world? Again, thanks.

[Cameron Thraen]

Checkering recut with mullered border. Work remains on relief around forend latch and finishing up lines along the inside border.

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/62392_600x400.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/62392_600x400/)

With hardware
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/62402_600x400.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/62402_600x400/)

[Cameron Thraen]

Next up the checkering on the stock. Cleaning out many decades of grime in the checkering.

Cleaned using only alcohol and a suede brush. I can actually see the figure in the walnut visible in the pattern.
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/62411_600x400.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/62411_600x400/)

Not cleaned. Figure is hidden by grime.
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/62410_600x400.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/62410_600x400/)

Cleaned.
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/62416_600x400.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/62416_600x400/)

[Dean Romig]

That's almost nice enough to leave alone.





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[Cameron Thraen]

Dean, I agree. After cleaning I will leave as is. Thanks.

I will add that close inspection shows the mullered border, along many curved sections, to be cut with a 'U' gouge as the start -stop cutting marks are plainly visible. Interesting.

[Cameron Thraen]

Finished up, now the wait for LR's excellent barrel finishing. Thanks to all who helped with advice, comments and followed along. I will post again when the barrels are back home.

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/62462_600x400.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/62462_600x400/)

[Dean Romig]

I like it!!





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[Tom Flanigan]

Just thinking ahead. Any advice on using alkanet root as a stain on this Parker? I have read quite a lot on AR as a stain to get that red tone but I am not sure about using it on my 1893 Parker? I do not make my own of course but am aware that a product by S.B. McWilliams can be purchased on eBay. Looking for your advice. Thanks.

A note: On my project gun from last winter (Leftover G S#47216: Stock repair- yikes on the Double gun forum) I used Brownell's Pilkington spirit stain and then multiple hand rubbed coats of Velvit Oil. Turned out very satisfactory.
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61544_500x375.jpg (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/61544_500x375/)

I use alkanat root oil that I made up years ago. I have a lifetime supply. I took alkanet roots from England and boiled them, on a stove, in linseed oil with Japan drier added. My method of finishing a stock using the alkanet oil is to fill all of the pores first and then wipe down with the alkanet oil and let dry for at least 24 hours. I do additional coats if necessary. I don't mix alkanet oil with the coats of final finish since, I believe, that it dulls the impact of the grain with multiple coats of finish. Putting alkanet oil on before the final finishing seems to work fine and the grain continues to stand out.

[Larry Mason]

Outstanding Cameron!! This has been great. Thanks to all.

[Foster Myers III]

Really well thought out! Thank you for sharing this idea, love it.

[William Wood]

The mullered border. On my forend this border is completely or nearly filled with finish. Without giving away hard earned trade secrets any advice on how to go about removing this finish and restoring this border?

I found that Gunline makes a cutter that was almost a perfect match for the mullered border on the last Parker I re-checkered.

[keavin nelson]

Keavin, thank you. As I am refurbishing and not redoing, as in sanding and replacing, your advice is very useful. Can you be more specific as to the acrylic gel? Are you referencing something along the lines of a glue? Or AcraGlas? Or something from the art world? Again, thanks.

I purchase it from Woodcraft store locally.

[William Wood]

On the oil soaked stock, Whiting, mixed with just enough Acetone to make a thick slurry or paste, will draw it out. Acetone is not a solvent for shellac. Shellac has the ability to "layer" very well, so that any patching of thin or worn spots will adhere very well. Use the "De-waxed" flakes and mix in a glass screw-top jar. It can be mixed ahead and seems to keep for quite a while. Use an inexpensive pure bristle brush as the acetone WILL destroy almost any synthetic bristle throwaway brush. It doesn't seem to affect natural dye type stains that much, but try it in an out of the way place first.

[Cameron Thraen]

Well, after a long, cold and snowy winter followed by a hot-cold-hot-wet spring then the same for summer here in central Ohio, my 1893 Parker GH project is now completed. The barrels are back home, looking top-shelf fantastic, reunited with the recheckered fore-end, mullered border, all lines recut with fresh shellac, and the cleaned stock/receiver. This was a fun project and now it's back in the safe until autumn.

Here are a few photos to close out this thread.

Pheasants starting in September and woodcock in November await. Quail to follow next April. To all who helped with advice and encouraging comments along the journey, my hearty thank you.

[Steve Huffman]

Nice looking gun

[Dean Romig]

Nicely done - Bravo!





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