parker trojan

[Thomas L. Benson Sr.]

I need some advice about why my gun does what it does. When you break the gun open to load it, if you don't open it all the way only one barrel will fire. Then if you break it all the way it will fire both barrels. Is something wore out or maybe just need cleaning. Hoping it is something simple. what do think ? Thomas L. Benson Sr.

[Bruce Day]

Always start with cleaning. Dirt and dried oil varnish is the cause of most Parker problems.

[Thomas L. Benson Sr.]

I took the gun down and found broken part. After replacing and cleaning where do you oil the parts before assembly. Thomas L. Benson Sr.

[Francis Morin]

I took the gun down and found broken part. After replacing and cleaning where do you oil the parts before assembly. Thomas L. Benson Sr.- My ballparker (OK- ball park) guess might be the cocking slide and joint roll- Col. Day is correct- main cause of minor Parker problems is usually dirt, crud, grease etc- How far did you dis-assemble your Trojan--

I have a later series 12 gauge Trojan receiver with many parts- all working- but no trigger plate or sears- by later style I mean- no recess in the receiver for the small doll's head barrel rib extension, and the coil top lever spring in the cylindrical housing- Let me know if you need anything by PMS- Now that we are allowed to sell Parker guns (thank you JD and the BOD) with compliance with BATF regs- we can also sell receivers, as long as they are shipped through FFL. Good deal all around--:cool:

[Dave Suponski]

Francis, Do you mean PM as in Private Message or PMS as in what women get once a month?

[Francis Morin]

Francis, Do you mean PM as in Private Message or PMS as in what women get once a month?-- Boy oh Boy Dave- between you and Colonel Day and his sage observations about me and Sarah Jessica Parker and the Trojans I should bring to the event_ I assume Bruce meant three- a 12, a 16, and a 20 gauge--

I have to be extra careful. I thought I was referring to the Private Message Service we Parker lads have for communicating sans threads on the open Forum. But you are right- about 7 years ago in March I was a judge for a structual contest for the Oddessy of the Mind program, Jr. High School- and at the State level- The kids had to build a structure from balsa wood and glue with a designated center, it was set on a plywood base with a 1" black pipe about 3' high-- another circular piece of plywood set on top, and then barbells of known weight added until it crushed-Great event--but the highlight 9for me anyway) was the "Soccer Moms" who came with the team from Petoskey, MI-- they had custom powder blue sweat shirts with huge letters- PMS on the front- below in smaller case- Petoskey Middle School.

Will son Danny be getting a 28 gauge VH in his stocking this year? Great grouse gun I hear--:cool::cool::bigbye:

[scott kittredge]

Francis, Do you mean PM as in Private Message or PMS as in what women get once a month?

once a month, i wish!!

[Thomas L. Benson Sr.]

Francis: I don't know how we went from where do I oil parts to pms but I understood your message. I don't need extra parts today but could down the road thanks. Parts are in sonic cleaner right now and was just inquiring about where to oil when reassembling. Thomas L. Benson Sr.

[Francis Morin]

Francis: I don't know how we went from where do I oil parts to pms but I understood your message. I don't need extra parts today but could down the road thanks. Parts are in sonic cleaner right now and was just inquiring about where to oil when reassembling. Thomas L. Benson Sr.-- Must be the extra "Nog" in the office party punchbowl- I don't know either how we went from parts for your Parker Trojan shotgun to actress Sarah Jessica Parker and or the Petoskey Middle School soccer Moms- but to quote the late Jerry Garcia here: "What a long, strange trip this has been"--

You never know about names and nomenclature- The Parker economy grade shotgun named after a wooden horse- I often wondered if Parker Brothers ever thought about renaming their DH(E) Grade gun barrels from Titanic, after the April 1912 disaster- to another word- but they didn't--

Anyway, the sonic cleaner is a great idea- never have used that process. The old rule of gun component lubrication is- Oil moves and migrates, grease doesn't- In some way, the wall mounted horizontal gun racks my grandfather and father used for storage of their rifles and shotguns prevented excess oil from running downwards from a muzzle upwards vertical storage of a shotgun or rifle. Also the older trunk and LOM cases used for both transport and storage prevented this- less chance of oil moving into the wood at the stock head-

Let us know how the Trojan shoots after you have re-assembled it and lubed critical parts- betcha it will outlast either you or me-:bigbye:

[calvin humburg]

Gooden Dean

[Dave Suponski]

Francis, Son Danny just got(according to him anyway) a nice 16 gauge O frame 28" VH Now he's already asking how long is it till October..It's gonna be a long winter and the "Shack nasties" haven't even set in yet...

Anyway back to Tom,s Trojan....What part did you find broken?

[calvin humburg]

Send him out here Dad all kinda stuff to shoot. ch

[Thomas L. Benson Sr.]

Dave: the left hand hammer was broke. Does dry firing cause this or is it true that you can dry fire Parkers without worry. It's a 1922 era gun. Thomas L. Benson Sr.

[Dave Suponski]

Tom, That is the first time I ever heard of a broken hammer on a hammerless gun. Where did it break? At the tip? I have dry fired my gun's but not allot I use snap cap's..but that is just me. Parker sales literature states that their guns can be dry fired without concern. But steel does weaken with age.

[Francis Morin]

The hammers are forged and the firing pins (strikers) are part of the forging that is then machined to the finished part. Tom, you mentioned you found the problem, do I assume you have a replacement hammer for your Trojan then? Dave is right about metal fatigue- and also snap caps-

I use A-zoom snap caps as the dummy primers are spring loaded, and give the firing pins something to contact. IMO- snapping down to relieve stored tension on the springs- especially V springs as on my LC Smiths is important.

But I have several pre-WW11 Model 12's and a M70- all have been shot a great deal, and I do NOT dry fire to take tension off those coil springs when stored in the Browning Gun Safe. One advantage to a coil spring, if contained, if a slight fracture occurs on either end, it will still function. Break a V-spring as from a sidelock doublegun, and you now have two pieces of potential shim stock- from alloy steel-

I use Rem Oil aerosol, but also prefer the clear oil that is used to lubricate the internal pistons of air powered nail guns--for grease I use Lubriplate (lightly) applied with either a toothpick or Q-Tip--

Welding fractured sears and springs is a waste of time- and material- and TIG is not a cheap process. You can re-weld a fracture (depending on location and function of the area of the hammer that broke of course) with TIG, but you should first take a DHP test to determine hardness, and you must anneal before welding, post weld anneal by packing the part in ground charcoal and wrapped in asbestos sacking- then reharden to factory hardness specs. Cheaper to buy a replacement intact hammer-possibly!!

[Jack Cronkhite]

Tom: After the sonic cleaning, I would give all the parts you have removed a nice oil bath (or ballistol if you have) and then wipe them as dry as possible with cotton cloth (old T shirts are a good source). Since you have opened it quite a bit in order to remove a broken hammer, I would completely disassemble the entire action, clean, oil and wipe all parts. I would use light gun grease on the bolts, the main spring plunger and the top lever. There may be other opinions but that is what I would do. Can you post some pictures of the broken hammer? Is the hammer broken or is it the mainspring pin that holds the hammer and the hammer stirrup together that is broken?
Cheers
Jack

http://parkerguns.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=128&pictureid=1513
Left Hammer with Hammer Stirrup
Three parts here. The hammer and the stirrup are joined by the Mainspring Pin, which appears to be lightly staked. Discretion says not to disassemble, although the pin can be punched out if need be, for example to replace a cracked or broken hammer or stirrup. The last three digits of the serial number are stamped on the inside face. The outside face is smooth. The same applies to the Right Hammer, allowing one to correctly determine left or right hammer in the event of forgetting the correct orientation. The hammer rotates on the hammer screw to the cocked or fired position. There is a cut out on the hammer stirrup that fits approximately 1/4 of the circumference of the hammer screw, which allows for its required movement to stay in place in the mainspring plunger when the mainspring is compressed or extended.
http://parkerguns.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=130&pictureid=1421

http://parkerguns.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=128&pictureid=1492
http://parkerguns.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=128&pictureid=1494
http://parkerguns.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=128&pictureid=1503

[Thomas L. Benson Sr.]

Dave/Francis/Jack: The hammer broke right at the area of the hammer screw. I have extra parts so i'm ok in that department. Don't have pictures to show sorry. will use light grease when installing parts. Thanks for the help. Thomas L. Benson sr.