GH 10 at auction

[Robert Delk]

Got to see a GH 10 that will be coming up for auction the next few weeks. Gun was coated with hard grease but looks good and the wood is nice with a straight grip and a badly decomposed pad.Could hardly open gun due to the grease acting more like glue but barrels look ok. Damascus pattern is still pretty strong.Thinking 1200 or so. Close? Barrels were 32".

[Dean Romig]

A 32" GH 10 with a straight grip? Sure, easily $1200... depending on how it cleans up.

[Ed Blake]

I would bid hard on that one. A long, straight-grip 10 would be very cool to have.

[Russ Jackson]

Robert ,Best of luck bidding to you ,but I would have to think the " OR SO " Part would be a better guess ! I can't imagine a 10 Ga. GH Grade 32" Barreled gun ,if it is correct and in decent condition not bringing more than $1200.00 at an auction where folks are sitting and bidding against each other ! With that said ,you just never know ! Let us know if you get her ! Russ:corn:

[Robert Delk]

I'm just wondering where the gun came from. I had been in the house many times and guns were never mentioned.He collected tools and was a crazy trout fisherman but never mentioned hunting or shooting in the 10 years I knew him.

[Dean Romig]

Probably just a relic from a bygone era and a long gone relative.

[Dave Suponski]

Unless they were later guns and then the EH and NH designation was dropped by Parker Bros. I think somewhere around 1900 or so.

[Robert Delk]

Well,I dunno because it said "G" on the water table and they told me it was a 10.I didn't try a shell and I am not fine tuned enough to tell the difference by sight alone.Serial number was in the 110,000 or 170,000 range. Lots of grease all over the gun and I could not break it down to check for sure.I'll have to go back and clean the gun anyway and will have a look.

[Dave Suponski]

Robert, By that serial range it would have been designated a G grade

[Pete Lester]

My understanding is the EH and NH designations were used as the 10ga in grade 1 and 2 were $5 more than any other gauge in the same grade. I am guessing when the EH and NH designations were dropped the price of 10ga was the same as any other gauge in the same grade, correct?

[Robin Lewis]

If you could post the serial number, we could look and see if it is listed in "the book". If it is, it will tell you if its a 12 or a 10 as well as the grade and original barrel length.

[Dave Suponski]

Yes Pete they were $5 more and just to clarify the NH,EH designation was dropped around the time the "Pine Cone" catalogs were issued in 1907.

[Robert Delk]

We're talking major varnish-like grease on all metal parts that was solidified and could not be wiped off but chipped off with a coin in spots. What do you use to get that stuff off? I don't want to hurt the wood. I have the directions posted on this website to dismantle a Parker so we can do that if we have to,but would rather not.

[Francis Morin]

Grease on the barrels and receiver parts- hard like varnish. Is this same grease also on the stock and forearm as well? And at present you cannot open the gun, nor remove the forearm and the barrels from the receiver in the usual manner? Wow-- this is a "puzzlement" indeed.

I know how we'd remove the Cosmoline from the bores of the Garands and Soringfield 1903's in the Armory- but that was just on ordnance steel and no stocks- also mainly in the bores, then the barrels were wrapped in special rust proofed brown paper and taped closed for shipment or storage.

Perhaps a form of paint stripper such as Formby's or WATCO, but try it on the barrels as see- wonder what the wood finish on the stock and forearm is like under a layer of that hardened grease? Good luck indeed.:bigbye::bigbye:

[Robert Delk]

They kept most of it off the wood but the metal parts are coated with whatever it is.I'll try some stripper. Never thought of that . Thanks for the idea.

[Robin Lewis]

I have used Hoppe's #9 to remove oil that had turned to varnish like consistency.

[Robert Delk]

I'll stand the barrels in a metal tube I have and try different stuff. We tried #9 with just a rag and it wouldn't do anything but perhaps a good soaking will do the job.At least the stuff kept away the rust as what we can see of the metal is in very good shape.

[Francis Morin]

Bob- just an after thought- if I were doing this to a set of older barrels, I might consider plugging both the muzzles and breech with cork plugs, and possibly using a 4" dia length of PVC pipe with caps rather than a steel tube or iron pipe-if for no other reason than the stripper or whatever compound we figure out to be best won't "migrate" to the ID of the metal pipe- you want as close to 100% on the heavily coated tubes.:bigbye::bigbye:

[Mark Landskov]

Soften the crud, with the solvent of your choice, and use bronze wool and brass toothbrushes to remove the deposits. The brass and bronze will not harm any remnants of bluing or natural aged patina. The brass brushes are easily found in your local hardware emporium in the plumbing/soldering aisles. Good luck!

[tom leshinsky]

I would try acetone It works great to strip off old finish and it is reletivley safe, but very flameible, use in well ventilated space. Try to use a tightly covered container-it evaporates fast. good luck

[James T. Kucaba]

I think I'd try to soften whatever the GOO may be by passing the parts thru the steam escaping from the spout of a tea kettle ... Once the GOO has softened, you should be able to remove it by wiping the parts with a cloth.

Jim Kucaba ... AriZOOna Cactus Patch ... Email: JimKucaba@aol.com

[calvin humburg]

Keep us posted maybe a picture? What a cool gun does it have turnips (ducks) if so i'm jealous of who ever gets the ol stright grip flying turnips or not. best ch I agree with Roundsworth hes cleaned metallices that way and it don't even scratch the brass.