New acquisition

[Eric Grims]

Just picked up a late 20s GH ser# 220738. Does anyone have any historical info that could shed some light on this gun's history?
As always thanks for your interest

[Dean Romig]

Yup, the PGCA Research Committee should have something on that Parker. $60 for the letter or join the PGCA for $40 and then the letters are only $40 each. The biggest benefit of PGCA Membership though is the Parker Pages quarterly journal (glossy magazine in reality) loaded with invaluable research articles and resources. Every issue has several pages of color photos of guns, members and events. I highly recommend everyone who isn't currently at least an annual member to join up and reap the benefits.

[Dean Romig]

Well Eric, I just stuck my foot in my mouth on your Parker 220738. I took a look and there are no records for your gun on which to base a research letter. That's pretty unusual but it happens from time to time.... but, what the heck - you can still join the PGCA.

[Dave Purnell]

Welcome Eric,

I joined the PGCA after buying my first Parker. It's a PHE 20ga with 28" barrels. It's a sweet little gun at six pounds even. Unfortunately, it is in the same serial number range as your gun, #220200, and no records still exist. I just have to be satisfied with the knowledge I have learned from this organization, and from other existing research materials. According to "The Parker Story", Parker Bro. made 100 guns in this grade and barrel configuration. It was also manufactured in 1926, which is the last year the P grade (or grade 1) was offered for sale.

Eric, tell us more about your gun, gauge, barrel length, condition, show pictures if you have any. There are a lot of very knowledgeable people here who are anxious to help you learn more.

Dave

[Eric Grims]

Thanks for all the info. I will post some picks this weekend and with all the time I spend on this site will most def join up. The gun is nice but what I would call a shooter given a repaired chip in the stock and a reblued barrel. I want to show the chip and get an opinion on any options I may have. The gun locks up tight, tang to the right, some case color, good bores etc..

[Eric Grims]

Here are some picture. The first 2 show the damage where the chip came out.
It seems to be glued back rather securely and I put a few rounds through the gun no problem. Appears to have been done quite some time ago. Other pictures are there just to show the gun. If the chip stays in I have no problems and will shoot a good bit of SC, skeet, and 5 stand with it. I really like the gun and condition except for the stock. If it comes out then I have to choose what to do:
1-shoot it with the chip out if I can which would really bug me every time I took it out.
2-Replace the stock to the tune of $1000 +. Option 2 is not a bad option as this is a tight, clean, gun in every other respect,
3- try and find one of those expert furniture repair guys other folks tell me about that can repair with almost no one noticing.
4 -OTHER!?
My friends and I call it the $2000 chip. The rest of the wood is rough but solid.
Be real interested in other opinions
Thanks

[Eric Grims]

oops
pictures

[Eric Grims]

More pix

[Eric Grims]

more

[Eric Grims]

Here are some picture. The first 2 show the damage where the chip came out.
It seems to be glued back rather securely and I put a few rounds through the gun no problem. Appears to have been done quite some time ago. Other pictures are there just to show the gun. If the chip stays in I have no problems and will shoot a good bit of SC, skeet, and 5 stand with it. I really like the gun and condition except for the stock. If it comes out then I have to choose what to do:
1-shoot it with the chip out if I can which would really bug me every time I took it out.
2-Replace the stock to the tune of $1000 +. Option 2 is not a bad option as this is a tight, clean, gun in every other respect,
3- try and find one of those expert furniture repair guys other folks tell me about that can repair with almost no one noticing.
4 -OTHER!?
My friends and I call it the $2000 chip. The rest of the wood is rough but solid.
Be real interested in other opinions
Thanks

[Harry Collins]

It looks like a good solid Parker. The floor plate screws are in the wrong holes. They should "index" ie: the slots should be pointing in the same direction as the barrels. To get to the one infront of the trigger guard bow you need to take out the guard bow screw and the trigger guard bow will unscrew. What type of steel is inscribed on the rib of the barrels, Damascus or Parker Special Steel? Again a great looking Parker.

Harry

[Eric Grims]

Parker special steel. And thanks for the info on the screws.

[Eric Grims]

I have had the floor plates and guard off of other parkers and will go check on them given your advise on this gun. Am I to assume if the screws are original (and all the other gun parts seem to be - Numbers matching etc) and I properly unscrew them that I should get a combination where they all line up? If so do they line up generally in the proper direction or are they very precise?
Thanks

[Bill Murphy]

Don't go to a "furniture guy" to fix the chip. A furniture guy would ruin your gun taking the stock off. Tell us where you are located and maybe we can fix you up with a wood guy who can also fix screws.

[Eric Grims]

Live in northern Vermont ablout a mile from the Canadian border at the end of I-91

[Jim Akins]

Eric, the screws are marked on their end, the one with an X goes in front of the trigger-guard. One of the other screws will have a single line it goes (I think) on the left side, the other one has no mark, at any rate you have a 50-50 chance.

[Eric Grims]

Great. I will carefully get into it.
Thanks

[Eric Grims]

Took out the screws and only one lined up. All marked as you say. They were roughed up a bit and after 80+ years who knows what happened.
Thanks