Cheddite hulls

[Stan Hillis]

The thread started by Craig got me to wondering about Cheddite hulls. How do you positively identify them, when picking up once fired for reloads? Do they all have the two stars on the head, or must you go by certain brands that you know use Cheddite hulls?

Thanks, SRH

[Rick Losey]

i go to Ballistic products and click on ADD TO CART when it says Cheddite

:rotf::rotf::rotf:

actually - i also reload RSTs - but I think they all have the stars

[Matt Stolley]

Stan,
RST and Kent both use Cheddite hulls in their 12 gauge loads (not sure of other gauges).
The basic Cheddite headlamp is 4 each stars and 12's (12 gauge). Some have the company name stamped instead of the basic such as KENT 12.
I look at the base wad, it's basically flat with a rim that sticks up about 1/16" . I've only seen the base wad color to be white.

[Pete Lester]

In my experience Cheddite hulls are nowhere near as good for reloading as hulls from Winchester, Remington and Federal. I got some experience reloading 16 ga hulls this fall. They are prone to buckling just ahead of the brass no matter how much you adjust a MEC loader and shot column. I also noticed that the crimp folds lack memory. in fact the more I loaded and shot them the smoother the mouth of the hull became. I read on here awhile back somebody(s) were having headspace problems with repeated reloading of Cheddite 10ga hulls. I believe it is simply a case of making them as economical as possible i.e. shoot one and done.

[Stan Hillis]

Thanks, fellas, for the feedback. I use Nitro 27s for my bismuth handholds, with a little lesser powder charge than Craig's Cheddite load, and don't plan to quit that right now, in fact I just loaded up enough for the rest of this season.

But, just for fun, I'd like to work up a load in a case that has a really "high brass" outward appearance, not for any reason besides nostalgia and appearance. I just like the looks of "high brass" duck loads, even tho' I know it has no bearing on the velocity of the load contained. I was thinking maybe Cheddite had a hull like that. A couple of my clay shooting buddies shoot factory loads, at sporting, that are very "high brass". I'll pick some of them up next time and see what they are.

Again, thanks for the feedback. SRH

[Rick Losey]

In my experience Cheddite hulls are nowhere near as good for reloading as hulls from Winchester, Remington and Federal. I got some experience reloading 16 ga hulls this fall. They are prone to buckling just ahead of the brass no matter how much you adjust a MEC loader and shot column.

absolutely agree Peter- I mostly load the NPE Cheddite for the 10 and occasionally the 12 when its a specific load requiring the hull. the only RST i ever reload have the taller brass, i get significantly fewer buckled hulls with them the the very low brass version.

I got a thousand once fired 12s in Remington's and another of the Federal and find they are much sturdier

[William Davis]

Only reason to load a Cheddite you don’t have anything else. 16 G I am stuck with Cheddites & have found ways around the weak rims collapsing mouth and lack of crimp memory. If I could get a supply of AA or STS 16 G hulls would throw every Cheddite out same day.

William

[Jeff Kuss]

I have to run 16 ga. cheddite hulls through a super sizer each time I reload them so that they will work in a mec 9000. It took a while to adjust it so that it didn't bulge the hulls.

[William Davis]

Same with me , was sizing my Cheddite 16s in a PW 375 priming then knocking out with a custom knock out rod. Then finishing on a MEC 600 with the short kit. MEC alone the rims often bent when sizing. Since have fully converted 16 loading to the PW which supports the hull full length while sizing. MEC size master would do the same.

William

[Austin J Hawthorne Jr.]

Have you tried adjusting the sizing collar? I've been loading RST 16 gauge hulls for years on a MEC 600 with the short kit and have never experienced deformed brass. However, when I first started using the short kit, I had an issue with the sizer not resizing the brass all the way down to the rim. As for the crimp memory with cheddite hulls, after 2 - 3 loadings they seem to settle in pretty well for me.

[Keith Doty]

I've been using Cheddite hulls for all my 2 1/2" guns, 12 and 16 both for a while now because I hate trimming hulls. Availability is a bit spotty but I will buy 500 hulls at a time when available. Really can't say a bad thing about them. I notice most all the guys here are using MEC presses. I have a pair of Pacific 266 presses, one set up for 12 and one for 16. Once I got them set up correctly (had to machine the final crimp dies down for 2 1/2") I get nice, factory appearing rounds, beautiful crimps, and perfectly satisfactory performance using both lead and bismuth shot. I can't honestly say how many reloads I get as I throw all spent hulls into bins by gauge. Any that appear the least bit imperfect after depriming/sizing, I pitch out.

[Stan Hillis]

Are Clever hulls Cheddites? I picked up 100 RX4 hulls this afternoon. Very nice looking hull with a nickel plated high base.

SRH

[Matt Stolley]

Stan,
Every Clever hull I've seen appears to be Cheddite.

[Stan Hillis]

Thanks, Matt. They do fit the base wad description you gave. That helped a lot, BTW.

Best, SRH

[Mike Koneski]

I reload Cheddite hulls for 16g 2 1/2" on a MEC 600 with a short kit. No issues at all unless I try to load paper hulls. That has about a 90% success rate. Always wind up with some buckled hulls. If I am loading 16g 2 3/4" I roll mine with Fiocchi hulls. They load very nice and never give me a problem.