leather stock protector damage

[Dean Freeman]

Does anyone have a comment on how to restore a stock which has had a leather laced protector on it for what looks to be a long time? The stock is in great condition overall save for the very obvious back half which has faded/rubbed the original finish over time.
I would like to attempt a refinish. Will the affected area (and rest of the stock) require a refinish, or can the affected area be "touched up" to correct things?
I'd love to hear any opinions/experience regarding this unfortunate use of such "protective" devices.

Best,

[Dean Freeman]

http://parkerguns.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=71903&stc=1&d=1555261498

Here's a pic of the stock on this lovely original Lefever.

[Dean Romig]

TimberLuxe will take care of that very nicely. Go to their website and watch the video.





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[Dean Freeman]

Dean,

It just so happens that I acquired a jar of Timberluxe and received it in the mail earlier this week. Was it a coincidence that I just happened to acquire this outstanding little Lefever yesterday? Thanks for the heads up.

Best,

[Dean Romig]

Do you also have their walnut stain to get the right color?





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[Dean Freeman]

Dean,

I don't have any yet... Once I get a look at the procedure, I'll get any other needed ingredients. Perhaps I'll make it to the southern and meet the source. I spoke with the owner of Timberluxe after my purchase regarding a shipping issue. We had a very pleasant conversation. I'd like very much to show him the gun and get his own perspective.
Hopefully I'll get to meet some of the Parker collectors during the southern. I certainly look forward to it, if time allows.

Kindest regards,

[Dean Freeman]

This begs a question... How does everyone deal with toting guns/etc. around at the southern? I'd like to bring a few but i'm wondering how parking and access to your goodies is handled. I was there recently, and noticed how crowded it may be during such a large event. Thoughts?

[Eric Eis]

This begs a question... How does everyone deal with toting guns/etc. around at the southern? I'd like to bring a few but i'm wondering how parking and access to your goodies is handled. I was there recently, and noticed how crowded it may be during such a large event. Thoughts?

Dean, not sure what you mean by toting guns, a cart is recommended but you can park down by the Parker/Smith tent and leave your guns locked in your car. Also don't forget that a group of us get together at Drakes landing Wed. afternoon and all day Thursday for a fun SxS shoot (no score sheets) just shoot for fun,and they have two great courses and lots of show and tell in the parking lot.

[Dean Freeman]

I was referring to toting several cases of shotguns around all day at the Southern. Any way to get around that would be advisable I’m assuming. I’ve never been to the event so not sure if one can go back-and-forth to the vehicle or if parking is offsite.
As for going to Drakes Landing that sounds wonderful. Does one need to get a reservation?
Is there someone I should contact beforehand?
Beginning to get excited!

[Sara LeFever]

As for going to Drakes Landing that sounds wonderful. Does one need to get a reservation?
Is there someone I should contact beforehand?
Beginning to get excited!

Dean,

No need for reservations. There is a separate thread (http://parkerguns.org/forums/showthread.php?t=27051) going about Drakes (and lunch on Thursday).

Sara

[Eric Eis]

Dean, a lot of people park on the road so I guess that's off site, but when you get there turn in and yes I guy will stop you, just tell him you are with the Parker/LCSmith group and you are going to park down there and just go past all of the tents and at the end of the road you will see one more tent and cars parked all around. Hope that helps and we'll see you at Drakes on Thursday

[Tom Flanigan]

Here is how I would address that stock……..I would very lightly sand the whole stock so that the color is the same. I would then fill the open pores with the mud method using multiple iterations of tung oil as a pore filler. It should take about three iterations. Then you can finish up with Timberlux wiping down each iteration with a clean cotton cloth building microscopic layers till you get the look you want. I would probably do the same to the forend so that all matches.

[Dean Freeman]

Tom,
Thanks for the advice. Sounds like the parking situation will be easier than I had thought. I have a golf cart, but no real way to get it down to Sanford (what a shame).

[Dean Freeman]

Here is how I would address that stock……..I would very lightly sand the whole stock so that the color is the same. I would then fill the open pores with the mud method using multiple iterations of tung oil as a pore filler. It should take about three iterations. Then you can finish up with Timberlux wiping down each iteration with a clean cotton cloth building microscopic layers till you get the look you want. I would probably do the same to the forend so that all matches.

Tom, et al,

How do you deal with avoiding checkering when using this method on the forend, or the stock for that matter? Is the idea to avoid the checkering all together, or is this done only when re-chasing or re-checkering is intended? I'd love to hear some thoughts. Obviously very fine sandpaper is used, but I can't imagine using any sandpaper and not doing some damage to the checkering. My assumption here would simply be to take great care to avoid checkering at all costs.

Best,
Dean

[Brian Dudley]

Sounds like a job for someone more versed in refinishing and repair.

[Tom Flanigan]

Tom, et al,

How do you deal with avoiding checkering when using this method on the forend, or the stock for that matter? Is the idea to avoid the checkering all together, or is this done only when re-chasing or re-checkering is intended? I'd love to hear some thoughts. Obviously very fine sandpaper is used, but I can't imagine using any sandpaper and not doing some damage to the checkering. My assumption here would simply be to take great care to avoid checkering at all costs.

Best,
Dean

I'll tell you my method and you can decide whether you want to try it yourself. I carefully avoid the checkering when light sanding. Then I use the mud method and when the pores are filled, I finish up with Tru-Oil or you can use Timberluxe if you choose. I then carefully tape off the area around the checkering with duck tape. Some finish will inevitably get into the checkering no matter how careful you are. I then very carefully spread finish remover on the checkering being very careful. I let it sit for 5 minutes and then take an old tooth brush and remove the finish in the checkering working in both directions of the checkering. When this is done I strip off the duck tape carefully. This will also remove old dirt from the checkering. Then brushing in a very light coat of finish on the checkering will protect it and make it the same color as the stock. Be careful to go lightly. If any finish gets on the stock just wipe if off with a clean cotton cloth. The very thin layer of finish brushed into the cleaned checkering will sink into the wood.

Before I brush finish into the checkering, I’ll deepen the checkering if needed and work on the mullered borders. The border usually has the most wear. But this last step should only be done by those well versed and experienced in checkering Parkers. Otherwise, the checkering should be left alone.

[Dean Freeman]

Brian,

I have a pile of old stocks and other wood from my woodworking exploits. I'll be practicing on these items before touching anything of value. My refinishing experience comes from my woodworking hobby and a antique business my wife and I owned. I am not a professional by any stretch, but I imagine I will find familiar territory once I've practiced a bit. Furthermore, I will continue to utilize this forum and opportunities such as the Southern to get more advice and input before I begin. I certainly hope this sheds light upon my intentions and the weight I place on the importance of treating any item of value with respect before beginning work.
Finally, I understand and respect your concern for the damage done to countless double-guns by the ubiquitous bodge-smiths that pollute our ranks. Please know that I look upon these and any other repairs regarding my guns with similar respect. I do not touch anything without first learning, practicing, and building the skill and confidence needed to undertake any project.
Should I determine that this or any other repair is outside my skill level, I will dutifully save my money and defer to a qualified and fully vetted professional, such as yourself.

[Brian Dudley]

I by no means am campaigning.
And of course I have no knowledge of your level of experience in wood finishing. Which it sounds like you have enough of a background to be a help in this endeavor.
Simply proceed carefully and do no harm.