Parker Butt Stocking Tutorial

[Brian Dudley]

I have been working on 11 restocks for the past few months in a sort of assembly line fashion while working in other small stuff in-between.

One in particular I documented each of the critical steps of making the stock. I figured I would share them here in case anyone has wondered what all goes into it.

The gun is a 20g. VH. It is a full restoration.

I did the required repair work to the original stock in order to get a suitable pattern and I duplicated the original stock out of a piece of American Walnut that had some nice curl in the butt area. Nicer than the original piece, but still very suiting for a VH grade.

64125

The Frame is hand fitted into the inletting for good contact along the tang, but primarily on the recoil surface.

64126

64127

I then inlet the trigger plate into the bottom of the stock with the frame clamped firmly in place.

64128

64129

64131

Then the holes for the tang screws can be drilled and the screws installed. The front tang screw requires the insertion of a threaded bushing first.

64132

64133

Then I can attach the top lever and it's linkage and inlet for clearance of all of those moving parts. Clearance cuts also have to be made for the hammers.

64134

64135

I then install the grip cap. It is held on by one wood screw and located by two steel pins. The new screw then gets it's slot timed.

64136

64137

64138

I then install a new buttplate on the stock. It is carefully insetted for total contact around the whole surface. Just as carefully as the action is fitted. The last 3 digits of the serial number are written on both the butt and the plate. Like the factory did. The new screws are then timed and dressed down flush.

64139

64140

64141

The trigger guard can then be fitted. The tang is insetted into the stock. The serial number and grade are stamped into the wood and a new screw is installed.

64142

64143

To finish up the work inside the head of the stock. The safety jacket is installed. It is very important that it is tight in the wood and that the depth is correct. Then a hole is drilled for the reset rod using a custom made jig. Function can then be tested and adjustments made if needed. The button slide should fully reset when the top lever is opened.

64144

64145

64146

The finial profile of the stock and the details of the grip, cheeks and comb flute can be shaped using rasps and files.

64147

Once the toe line is set, the monogram shield can be installed and dressed off.

64148

Then everything is sanded out to 320 grit. A double layer of tape on all of the metal surfaces ensures that the wood is taken down to just the right level of being just proud of the metal. Everything is now ready for sealer and finish coats.

64149

64150

64151

64152

64153

64154


I hope this information has been useful to some.

[Randy G Roberts]

Thanks Brian, very informative and interesting. BTW I would like to see that wood after the finish was applied. Looks to me like it would qualify for an even higher graded Parker. Please post pics when done.:corn:

[Allen Gill]

Thanks for posting. That is really incredible workmanship. It is very difficult to find people with such talent. I hope you continue posting the rest of the restoration.

[Craig Larter]

Brian great tutorial! Thanks for your efforts. Craig

[keavin nelson]

Brian, appreciate you sharing this, very insightful of the masterful craftsmanship! Curious, was the jig for drilling the safety pin made from a Parker frame cut off?

[Brian Dudley]

Yes. It is a cut off frame section.

[davidboyles]

Brian your work amazes me and the fact you put together a slide show with presentation of work in progress I'm even more amazed. Looking forward to more pics and progress. Thx for your efforts

[Frank Childrey]

That is very impressive work. I would like to see how the shield is installed along the stock's toe line. Also, I would also like to see the checking and finishing procedures . . . and, of course, the finished product. Such obvious skill certainly has my attention.

[Garry L Gordon]

Wow! This was as informative a post as I have seen on the forum. Thanks, Brian, for taking the time to document and share the photos -- and your expertise with us. I learned much from this posting.

[Brian Dudley]

The same stock with one sealer coat on it to better show figure.

64286

[Harry Collins]

I like the other guns you are working on as well.

[Brian Dudley]

Finish is coming along nicely on it.

64961

[Dave Sizemore]

Great stuff here Brian! Love that jig. I’d be curious to know your method of drilling the front and back tang screws. And perhaps even how you think Parker might have done it in a production setting?

[Tom Wyraz]

Brian, GREAT tutorial ! Super pictures ! Too bad I'm not allowed to touch a screwdriver or any other tools due to my lack of skills.

[Reggie Bishop]

Very impressive craftsmanship Brian!

[Tom Goldasich]

I could never dedicate that kind of effort even if I had the skill. Simply Amazing.

Was the blank air-dried or kiln? Photos don't always show true colors.

[Mike Koneski]

Thanks for a walk through the making of a stock. Very well done.

[Craig Budgeon]

Brian, your treatise on restocking Parker shotguns is exceptional and should be shared with a larger audience starting with Parker Pages. I do have one question. Is the drill jig used to drill the auto safety rod hole universal as it appears or rather unique to frame size. You make many generous contributions to the Forum and this I believe is your best so far. Craig

[Brian Dudley]

The hole location for the safety reset rod is pretty much universal. Frame size does not really effect it.

[Hal Sheets]

Brian,
Thank you, for this post! We all can learn from seeing a Master's work!

Hal