View Full Version : Leather faced pad
John Dallas
07-19-2018, 09:16 AM
I've got a DHE which has a leather faced pad which is getting tattered and frayed. Replacing it looks to be rather straightforward, but I'm unsure about what sort of leather to use, or where to find it. Also any suggestions about the solvent to use to remove the old pad?
Thanks
Jerry Harlow
07-19-2018, 11:49 AM
http://parkerguns.org/forums/showthread.php?t=23868
I went to e-bay and found a fine-grained brown leather I liked for about $5. Enough to do a dozen guns. Removed old leather by just pulling it off and then denatured alcohol to clean. I traced the pad on the leather and cut it. Used shoe glue and then did a final trimming when on the gun.
I did not have any luck gluing on first then trimming to pad so I cut it out after tracing the second time. Took two tries because of first attempt to trim on the gun. Wanted a little darker brown so I used brown leather dye after that. No expert here though but a cheap and satisfactory result.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/112785671492?ViewItem=&item=112785671492&ppid=PPX000608&cnac=US&rsta=en_US(en_US)&cust=93863459ES265540B&unptid=1664438a-384a-11e8-bb24-441ea1472d58&t=&cal=878f1c3429155&calc=878f1c3429155&calf=878f1c3429155&unp_tpcid=email-receipt-auction-payment&page=main:email&pgrp=main:email&e=op&mchn=em&s=ci&mail=sys
Brian Dudley
07-19-2018, 12:13 PM
Goat skin or Pig Skin is preferred for Leather on pads.
John Dallas
07-19-2018, 12:25 PM
Thanks to all. Will start looking for some leather now
james orr
07-19-2018, 01:32 PM
Connecticut Shotgun has the leather. and Brian recommended Barge Cement as the glue. They both worked great for me.
j7l2
John Dallas
07-24-2018, 09:30 AM
Is contact cement the same as barge cement?
John Dallas
07-27-2018, 05:31 PM
Change in plans. After taking off the tattered old leather, and examining the now, cleaned up pad, and realizing that the edge is rounded, rather than squared off, I've decided to leave the pad uncovered. What say you? Going to shoo the gun this weekend. If all goes well, I will have a brown goatskin for sale
Eric Eis
07-27-2018, 08:03 PM
John I'm with you leave as is. Where are you going to shoot this weekend?
John Dallas
07-27-2018, 08:45 PM
Shooting Clays Sunday at Lewiston Sportsmen's League. If you're up north, come on over
Todd Poer
07-28-2018, 06:50 AM
I think short term that pad looks fine, and why would'nt it. However, not certain how it will hold up without some sort of cover. It is probaby just as nice and cushy as a roll of charmin and maybe as about as durable without the leather cover.
Agree with you about getting that other leather cover off. I think it was a stretch calling it leather. I forget the what they call that stuff but its essentially ground up leather that is then pressed into a sheet then painted. It is not very hard wearng stuff and that is why wore out and wore through.
I think that goat skin will wear better and develop a nice patina with use and care.
Eric Eis
07-28-2018, 07:43 AM
Shooting Clays Sunday at Lewiston Sportsmen's League. If you're up north, come on over
Wish I was, stuck down south............
Brian Dudley
07-28-2018, 10:03 AM
Given the age of that, i am surprised you were able to save it and have it end up as nice looking as it is.
John Dallas
08-15-2018, 09:02 AM
After several sessions on the range, I'm now convinced that the pad is good as it is. As a result, I now have a goatskin which I don't need. I've got about $20 in it. I'll send it to you for $12
Jerry Harlow
08-15-2018, 10:33 PM
P.M. sent.
William Wood
08-20-2018, 10:01 AM
Is contact cement the same as barge cement?
Barge Cement = Contact Cement.
Actually, Barge Cement is a contact cement, but it’s about 100% stronger than hobby store/ craft supply contact cement. Not sure if Tandy Leather carries it any more, but (as far as I know) the ACE hardware chain lists it in their on-line catalouge. That’s where I get it. Buy 2 small tubes, more will go bad in time. It’s what shoe manufacturers use to permanently (!!!) bond uppers to lowers, soles to bottoms, etc. Follow the directions, which roughly are: Spread a THIN coat on both parts. Let dry ( I allow at least 30 minutes) Align parts EXACTLY where you want them and press together. DO NOT let the leather wrinkle, trap air pockets, or otherwise go where you don’t want it to go. Best technique is to fit everything together before applying cement. When it is ready, turn thinnest piece cement side up and slowly apply the two pieces at one edge. Check alignment as you progress. Work gradually to join the 2 pieces, “ rolling “the piece as you go. Use an leather folder to “burnish” the top (cement free) side as you go. ( The bowl of a metal spoon will serve this purpose well,too.) It’s very important to remember once Barge cemented items are joined, THEY WILL NOT COME APART! Cap tube securely between uses. It is, hands down, the best leather cement there is.
Rick Losey
08-21-2018, 08:05 AM
interesting - have not looked for this in years- fly fishing shops used to carry it - it was the glue to use to attach felt soles
but looking around - the original formula (red and yellow packaging) seems to be harder to find now days- even the maker's site only sells the new blue package version
http://www.bargeadhesive.com/products.html
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