Shellac

[Scot Cardillo]

I've never finished a gun stock with Shellac before but, I'm nearing my final coat(s) on one I've been working on. Any tips to get a final coat laid down w/out any streaks? (i.e., keeping a wet edge)

*I'm applying the 2# cut of Garnet shellac I mixed-up myself with cheese cloth wrapped in t-shirt cotton. Also, I'm not french polishing but, I am cutting the dried shellac back w/cotton-oil-pumice to smooth it out between coats. Should I entertain the idea of airbrushing the final coat? I want the natural sheen of shellac, sans pumice-cut, as a finish coat.

[Brian Dudley]

I have worked quite a bit with shellac. It does have its challenges.

I peraonally preferred the commercially available zezners shellac over mixing it from flakes. The zezner is cleaner and easier to work with.

I usually just use a folded up piece of cheese cloth to apply it, lengthwise on the stock. And i keep the cloth in a container of denatured alcohol when i am not using it. Wring it out and use it again when ready.

You want to sand out imperfections after every couple of coats and hit it with steel wool too. Avoiding streaks completely is difficult. But they can be wet sanded out at the end with mineral oil. Then bugg with 0000 steel wool. And that birchwood casey sheen and conditioner works great for bringing the finish back up to a sheen.

The biggest thing is to avoid overworking at the corners and edges. Since the shellac has a color to it. Wearing through on edges will show big time.

Anyone who tells you that shellac is poor for moisture resistence is simply spreading fake news.

[Dean Romig]

I would recommend using a lint-free cloth, not cotton but a fine weave synthetic like nylon panty-hose...... oops, am I aging myself?





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[Scot Cardillo]

Thanks for the tips guys. Brian, I'm encouraged by your comments because much of what you've described is pretty spot-on with what I've experienced working this stock. That tells me I'm experiencing typical challenges & not off on some whacky adventure into the world of Shellac, with reckless abandon..

There's something quite nice & organic about the glow & overall feel that's coming forth as I get closer & closer to completion. I'm also pleased to learn there's a higher degree of moisture resistance then what seems to be associated with this type of finish. I would guess much of that has to do with the level of finish the work-pc is taken to. (e.g., number of coats, rubbing-out, etc)

Thanks again.

[Eric Eis]

Scot, how many coats are you planning on doing?

[Scot Cardillo]

Since I'm on a bit of a learning curve, I haven't a recipe nor any particular number of coats I'd like to apply, Eric. When it looks and feels right, I'll simply stop. (I think I have 4 or 5 coats at present)

[Brian Dudley]

You will likely find that you are about half way there.

How thick you have your shellac mixed will add into the equation.

[Bill Paul]

I have been refinishing my stock with the Parker finish from Galazan. I found that I could eliminate brush strokes by cutting the finish almost 50% and using a very fine natural bristle brush. I am not a fan of glossy finishes, so I will dull it down with pumice stone and Linseed/ tongue oil which gives a pretty good satin finish as I remember.

[Tom Pellegrini]

I use french polish. I apply it with a soft cloth. It dries within a few minutes depending on the humidity. Not a high glossy finish. If you search the thread "show me some wood" I have pics of the three Parkers that I finished.
Tom

[Justin Julian]

Try halving your shellac to a 1 lb cut. That has worked well for me in terms of avoiding streaks. Also, I like to finish it off with a couple coats of Timberluxe to get the right sheen.

[Ed Blake]

The final coat can be rubbed out with rottenstone and mineral oil. This will remove any streaking and add a nice gloss.