Mec Reloader Problem

[Gary Laudermilch]

I am using a Mec 9000G and have had a problem with the brass powder washer slipping out of position and as a result causing light powder drops. I am not using a powder baffle. For the life of me I cannot figure out why it is happening. Problem is that there is no way to detect when it occurs and because of that unknown there could be thousands of shells with light charges. A call to Mec did not yield any real solution other than to replace the washer.

Anybody else experience similar problems? The fix/solution? Mec advised in rather strong words not to use a powder baffle.

[Daryl Corona]

Gary;
Is the brass washer inserted with the convex side up with the little dimples and are you using the rubber washer on top of that? I've got the 9000 G and H models and have been using powder baffles forever along with the adjustable charge bars and the only time I experience low powder drops is when I'm on a roll and run out of powder. Duh!
So what is happening with this washer? Is it moving? The only thing I can figure is that your bar is not cycling far enough to the stop position regulated by the screw in the side of the bar.

[Gary Laudermilch]

Yes, I have the washer installed dimples up with the rubber washer on top. And yes, the charge bar is moving entirely to the end of the bolt slot. The washer slides partially under the powder/shot bottle frame which blocks off the powder drop hole.

The interesting thing is that I used the same washer through 100k rounds with the old Clays powder and never had a problem. During the powder shortage I had to switch to ClayDot which necessitated a powder bushing change. Since then I have gone back to the new formula of Clays that requires the same bushing as I used for ClayDot and again the problem popped up. I had installed a new washer before I started loading this winter and I got through 2000 without a hitch and then ...

So, you have been using a baffle. Which one, plastic or metal and are you using it with the brass and rubber washers in place or without?

[Daryl Corona]

I've got both metal and plastic add on baffles as well as an old powder bottle made by Hoppes with a built in baffle. They all work well and yes I use the brass and rubber washers together. Can't for the life of me figure out why the washer is migrating out of place and if it's connected to the change in your powder or bushing. Mec is usually really good diagnosing these problems and offering a solution. Is your powder bottle snug against the rubber washer almost to the point of binding and is the bushing flush with the bottom of the bar?

[Gary Laudermilch]

Last year when the problem first surfaced my thought was that the top of the powder bushing was catching the washer and dragging it out of position. On inspection it did seem as though that might be the case as the bushing seemed a whisker proud so I bought a new one that did seem to be a better fit. Apparently that was not the issue as the problem has resurfaced with the new bushing.

Mec seems to believe that the washer is the problem and offered to send me a few at no charge. Nice of them. Supposedly the washer is not supposed to be flat but, rather, be slightly convex to the top. Rather than suggest the bottle was not tight enough they suggested it is over tightened squishing the washer flat. Well, I do check the bottle frequently to make sure it has not loosened but I did not think I over tightened it. That is why I asked about using the powder baffle in conjunction with the grommet and washer. Doing so would seem to exert more pressure on the washer tending to flatten it.

So, my quest to solve the problem continues.

[Daryl Corona]

Yes, the washer should be in a convex configuration and I doubt you could tighten the bottle down hard enough to flatten it as there is a gap between the bar and the bracket holding the bottles. There was a flat brass washer that came with the earlier 650 models. Does your washer have the dimples and is it convex? Good luck and keep us posted on the outcome.

[Chuck Bishop]

Gary, be more clear when you say washer. Indicate brass or rubber.

[Jerry Harlow]

Just my opinion on what to do:

1. Find the older solid brass washers that were twice as thick as the new style with dimples. I believe this will stop the problem.

2. Use a powder baffle that has its own part that acts as washer. Forget what they said.

3. Are you using a solid bar or an adjustable. Either way, take the bar out and put the powder end in first and see if the gap between the bar and the metal is too loose.

4. I put the dimples down since they act as legs to suspend the brass washer up into the frame of the MEC to prevent it from sliding with the bar. I am guessing instead of the thick brass washer some engineer figured they could cut the cost of brass in half by cutting the thickness in half and pressing the dimples into it.

Is not Convex to the top with the dimples down? I think your washer is upside down. My washers are convex to the top/dimples down.

I think your washer is placed concave to the top/ dimples up.

Just my $0.02.

[Paul Harm]

I had the same problem once - drove me crazy until I found the problem. I just threw the washer away, end of problem. Does a little powder leak out - ya, but I could care less. Over on another forum the guys use the red plastic baffle without any washers to stop the powder from leaking. Not the silver metal one but the red one - no rubber or dimpled washer. Good luck - Paul

[Gary Laudermilch]

Yes Paul the solution is obvious. Eliminate the brass washer as you suggested. I guess I'm just stubborn but I would love to know why it is occurring. I have loaded tens upon tens of thousands of rounds and never once had the slightest problem. I am, however, rapidly approaching the application of your remedy.

[Paul Harm]

I know what you mean. My 9000H has probably had 40K shells put through it and all of a sudden I was getting punk loads. It took a while to find out the brass washer was moving. It's only there so fine powders don't leak out. I'd rather put up with a little powder on my reloading bench than getting those shi!!y loads.

[Carl G. Bachhuber]

When I use the red plastic baffle I don't use any washers. The spring loaded inner tube seems to seal against the charge bar just fine. After weighing a lot of powder charges I have found the baffle to work fine for some powders but not so well with others. You just have to experiment a bit.
C.G.B.

[Paul Harm]

Many like the Red baffle for what you said, but they remove the baffles inside of it so it's a straight drop. Guess they just like the sealing.

[Gary Laudermilch]

After doing a fair amount of reading on various forums there does not seem to be a clear cut solution to the problem. The mix of comments is about 50/50 but of those that have had good luck with a baffle, they seem to prefer the red plastic. Maybe because they are less expensive.

I have done a little experimenting. Probably spent too much time researching. I installed a metal baffle and to my surprise the powder charge dropped changed significantly, >1 grain. Interestingly, the change was an increase in dropped powder charge with the baffle installed. Just the opposite of what I would guess.

A friend of mine who is an ardent baffle user decided to try some E3 powder for one of his loads. The results were extremely erratic with a red baffle installed with dropped charges varying by as much as 3 grains. He was baffled!

[Jerry Harlow]

The results were extremely erratic with a red baffle installed with dropped charges varying by as much as 3 grains. He was baffled!

I get it! :rotf:

[Paul Harm]

The Gray baffle doesn't seal like the Red one. Personally, I don't use any baffle, just the tall bottle for shot and powder. When the 200 primer tray runs out it's time to refill everything. That way there's always plenty of powder in the bottle pushing down on the outlet.

[Carl G. Bachhuber]

I get better uniformity with E3 without the baffle. You just have to tinker a bit.
C.G.B.

[Paul Harm]

Just got to thinking [ could be bad ] but maybe the rubber washer got stiff and the dimples on the metal washer won't grab and adhere to it. Couldn't really say how old mine was, but most people never change them. Just a possibility.

[Gary Laudermilch]

Thanks for thinking! When I switched to Clay Dot powder and first encountered the problem after loading 2000 good shells I changed the rubber grommet, the brass washer, and the rubber shot insert in the hope of solving the problem. I still have no idea why. Am waiting for a red plastic baffle to arrive so I can settle on a fix. One thing for sure is that poor shells sucks.

Thanks to all for your input.

[Gary Laudermilch]

Received my red plastic baffles and tried it on my Clays load. Loaded 100 and weighed each shell. Only .1 grain variance. Some of the most consistent loads I have ever done. So far, I'm impressed and no brass washer to worry about.

[Paul Harm]

Thanks for the update.