Help me with stock repair?

[Ray Masciarella]

I have a well used AH circa 1890. Beautiful butt stock but poorly refinished years ago. When I stripped stock I found one area near butt plate sanded well below metal. Had been built up with ugly filler. Want to save stock. It's original and beautiful. A nice finish would make this old gun look great even tho the stock has some dings.

I would like to build the low area up with some type of clear epoxy to meet the metal. Has anyone done this? The epoxy would have to be easy to sand and dry clear. Will this work? Should I use Arcaglass? Does it dry clear? Is it easy to sand? My plan would be to finish it with a light coat of linseed oil after repair. I don't want it to look like a piano when I'm done=just a nice old gun. I just hate the low spot.

Any ideas?

Thanks, Ray

[Ed Blake]

How far below grade has the wood been sanded? Pictures?

[Dan May]

Ray,

If the sanded area is not too low your solution is viable, I have done this successfully, even around action sides and tangs. When done right it can be invisible. Sand the entire stock to 320 in normal preparation. Make sure the damaged area is smoothly sanded, no crags or broken fibers. If you plan on adding stain to the stock, stain the damaged area first to exactly the color you plan on finishing the rest of the stock to.

Use red box Acraglas (not the gel) for this procedure. Apply release agent to the buttplate (sides, top, underneath - everywhere) and install it. Mix the glas according to instructions and apply to the area liberally. Dome it up, make sure that there is enough material as it sets to settle and leave an appreciable buildup above the damaged area. Let it dry for at least a day. You can break the buttplate away after 10 - 12 hours if you feel it necessary and reinstall it for the rest of the cure.

Once the glas is good and cured - chisel or file and sand it down to the level of the wood and blend it out with the rest of the stock. Make sure the "edge" where the glas meets the wood in the body of the stock is perfectly sanded and feathered together so it is seamless. Apply stain to the rest of the stock now if you are staining. Now finish the stock as you normally would, finishing right over your repaired area as if it were wood.

If you're careful and take your time your repair should be more than acceptable. You will be looking "through" the glas to the wood underneath. This is why it is so important to make sure the wood is clean with no broken fibers or unusual damage underneath - it will show like you're looking at it through a window. This procedure only works well if the discrepancy is around 1/16" or less, preferably less. Sometimes you can pull it off up to 1/8" but it depends on the location.

Good luck, I hope this helps you.

Best regards,

Dan May

[Ray Masciarella]

Thanks Ed and Dan. To answer Ed's question, it about 3/32". Only in one spot top left of butt plate. Just below the spur.

Would it make sense to have someone who knows what they're doing (not sure who that would be) Sand a good contour, do the other side to match and then trim and refit the butt plate?

[Dan May]

Yep. If it is only 3/32" that would probably be a better solution. Hard to say without seeing it though.

Dan

[Austin W Hogan]

As that is an A grade stock I would suggest a comparable stock repairer. David Travaillion will not do the job overnight, but his repair will be undetectable to other than a similarly experienced stock maker.

Best, Austin

[Ray Masciarella]

Austin, how do I get in contact with David Travaillion? Does he have a web site, email, phone number? Thanks, Ray

[Austin W Hogan]

David is in York Beach ME but I do not have a current number for him. Perhaps someone will send you a PM

Best, Austin

[Robin Lewis]

David Trevallion
9 Old Mountain Rd.
Cape Neddick, ME.

(207) 361-1130

[Ray Masciarella]

Thanks Austion and Robin.

[Bill Murphy]

Dan May did not mention it, but he is in the stock business. Contact him if you like his ideas.