Silvers pad installation

[Bob Dombeck]

I have a 10ga top lever hammer gun that I am going to be adding a Silvers #3 pad to in order to gain a little LOP.
I want to retain the curve in the butt plate so I can put the steel plate back on if need be.
I am just looking for any hints or tips on fitting and grinding the pad to fit.
I have access to a heat gun and also a 12" round sander.
Is there a particular grit paper that works well for shaping the pad etc.?
Any tips would be appreciated.

[John Campbell]

I assume you are OK with the added LOP this pad will create. I also presume that it is a genuine Silvers. Not the Galazan repro, which tend to much more "greasy".

If so, then the best course for your needs might be to get a black spacer from Brownells, heat/shape that to the existing butt contour, grind that flat, then attach the Silvers atop it. In this way, you're not fighting the pad rubber and base that do not want to heat bend. You may still have to accept the original plate finial gap.

As for shaping the pad, medium grit is fine for the rough shape. Then go down to at least 500 grit for the last stage. Then coat with stock finish for a snag free surface. Oh... and don't forget to slightly round the rubber edges, heel and toe.

Good pad work is not a fast and easy job...

[Brian Dudley]

Silvers pads will flex to a curved butt. Most need the bases trued up on a sander before screwing on. And i find this warms up the base enough to make it just a little more pliable to help with bending. Screw it down to the stock slowly and allow it to conform to the curve.
Then scribe your line on the base to grind to. I grind the heel and toe angles while it is still on the stock since that angle will change once removed due to the curve. Then i mount to a jig and grind the rest.
Then remount and finish by hand.

[Bob Dombeck]

Any hints on artificially adding some aging to the Silvers #3 red pad?

[Brian Dudley]

Just keep it wiped down with gun oil.

After 6 months to a year of use, it will look just fine. No need to artificially get it there. In my opinion.

[Gerald McPherson]

I've read that vaseline helps with the age look.

[John Campbell]

Any hints on artificially adding some aging to the Silvers #3 red pad?

It all depends on what kind of "aging" you have in mind.

If it's the "old/cracked surface/yellowed" type, then wipe on some yellow varnish and wait about two weeks until it dries. Then it will eventually get cracked and gnarly with use.

If you want to preclude any other options in the future, use Vaseline or oil. They will soak into the rubber, look "oily" and virtually never dry.

If you want a complete mess, wipe on Linspeed. It NEVER dries.

[Bill Murphy]

My 1986 Griffin and Howe Repro Silvers installation on my AHE trap has aged just fine. It looks like it was installed by Parker Brothers in 1930.

[Dave Suponski]

Just shoot the hell outta it and it will age just fine