loose rib assist

[bob kuczynski]

I have a 1940 parker rib that when I tilt the gun up or down, I can hear something rolling around under the rib. I suspect the solder is detaching from the bbls. the sad part is the gun is beautiful condition with engraving and gold pin striping. I need a good if not perfect restorer to resolder the rib. any ideas in the conn area youd recommend?
thanks in advance.

[Daryl Corona]

That does'nt necessarily mean the ribs are loose Bob. Have you "rung" the barrels?

[bob kuczynski]

they ting just fine and see no trace of separation along the rib/bbl. im assuming its just starting to separate inside?

[Brian Dudley]

It is likely just a piece of loose solder from when the barrels were assembled. If all is tight and looks good, there is no need to take the set apart to fix the noise. Unless you want to of course.

[Daryl Corona]

They should be fine. Sometimes debris is in there from the barrel making process. I've had the same situation with a 1935 set of barrels and they have been fine for 40 years.

[bob kuczynski]

well then...you all just made my day!
i'll just monitor it when I shoot, and if I find any loosening, then i'll be alarmed.

now, next question, if I decide to reblue the bbls, what method would you recommend?
ive heard stories of too hot too cold and solder damage occurring.

or should I say...what is the correct way for a 1940 rib/bbl reblue?

[Brian Dudley]

Rust bluing is the only method that is acceptable for double guns.

[bob kuczynski]

is there a certain temp that wont ruin the solder or gold?

[Daryl Corona]

Unless they are badly pitted or rusted I would'nt touch them. Just my opinion.

[Frank Cronin]

is there a certain temp that wont ruin the solder or gold?

"If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

There's nothing wrong with your gun Bob. Just shoot and enjoy it.

[Brian Dudley]

is there a certain temp that wont ruin the solder or gold?



No temp will effect true gold. What grade is the gun that is has gold on it?

Solder joints can be effected in temps as low as 300-400 degrees.
Rust bluing gets no hotter than the water the barrels are boiled in, so the solder joints are perfectly safe.

[bob kuczynski]

see my avatar. that's it.

[Dean Romig]

If you decide (against advice) that you still want to re-blue the barrels please do not attempt to do it yourself.

There is Abe Chaber in CT who is German trained in correct methods of all gunsmithing procedures.

There is also Dan Cullity in East Sandwich, MA. You can't find better gunsmiths than these two gentlemen.





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[Dean Romig]

see my avatar. that's it.


Is that a Pachmayr gun? I ask only because of all the gold inlays.





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[bob kuczynski]

yes...its a pach. I bought it from a pca member in Fairfax va back in the early 90's. he was set up at the Richmond fairgrounds. I couldn't resist it.

good news, id never try it myself.

[bob kuczynski]

any idea what town abe is in? I frequent sw ct when I visit home regularly.

[Dean Romig]

I believe he's in Danbury.





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[bob kuczynski]

thatll work. thanks.

[Paweł Janusz]

Something rolling under your rib don't mean loose rib, mostly loose ball of solder of broken end of treaded old bead stud. Here is how to check: put your barrels on desk at medium or dark light room, using strong flashlight inspect every inch of rib by pressing it and watching for separation or rib movement, if that look ok, then gently bump barrels with rubber millet and lesson to a sound, is the sound is short and dead means no parts are loose, is its ringing or long then you may have separation somewhere there, but it don't necessarily is a concern. Except if barrels ware refinished in hot blue bath, that means blueish salts are trapped between ribs and barrels and slowly are eating away solder joint. But let's say that is not a case then here is what you do with eyeing rolling part of solder: the concept is to get is glued inside, hole can be drilled in bottom rib right by the forearm lug, or in solder plug at barrel face, the barrels can be skated so the particle move towards the area and glueing fluid can be injected to glue part in, wipe off excess if and showing from under the rib. Let it dry and if success is achieved them the hole in front of barrel can be plugged back with melted solder and made like it never happened.

[bob kuczynski]

good insight. thanks.
the bbls thunk when hit.
since we are on ribs, i have a m12 win solid rib that has in some places seperated from the bbl. its original blue, not reblued and im stuck deciding how to fix it. as many know, the bbl is attached to a bbl extension, so if it was resoldered it would most likely have to be reblued. but proper is....bbl blued seperate from the extension. the extension must match the receiver, not the bbl. so, is there any way to reglue or lets just say...attach the rib again w/o reblueing?
its a 1940 skeet 16ga and i hate to reblue it. granted, value will be effected if repaired, but its already ruined because it seperated. i just dont want to make it any worse.

[Brian Dudley]

No. The only legit way of doing it would require rebluing.

Short of cleaning it as best as possible, clamping, reheating and praying the solder reattaches. But it usually doesnt.

[John Dallas]

I thought M12 solid rib barrels were machined out of solid stock, instead of having the rib added later

[Jeff Christie]

So did I on M12 solid ribs. Same belief about solid ribs on Remington M31s. However I am often wrong but NEVER in doubt.

[Brian Hornacek]

Model 12 and 42 ribs are soldered on. The original rib tooling and bar stock matting machine are in NY and you can have a rib installed for $695 including bluing. Most of the loose model 12 ribs come from a hot tank blue. The same issue that doubles encounter. Remington 31 guns are made from a solid pice of steel as you say.

Here is the shop with the original tooling. http://m.ebay.com/itm/262782124326?_mwBanner=1

I have had 2 ribs installed by them on unusual 30" 16ga and 20ga guns. They did rib install only and my gunsmith did all the finish work. If you use them ensure the barrel is straight and concentric before and after. They can do the solid rib install on a 42 as well but the rib will not be correct to original Winchester, 42 solid ribs tapered to the muzzle and they can not do the tapper to the bar stock.

One more thing of note.....as I understand the matting machine is not a roll die, it is a alternating cutter, cuts the angle to the left and then to the right, gives the zig zag pattern.

One option for the cheap fix is acetone and epoxy on the loose rib, I would not recommend it but it has been done if the rib needs stabilized.

As you might guess I am an old model 12 junky!

[Jeff Christie]

Hey, at least I got it half right on the Rem 31. .500 will get you rehired in any league. M12s are great! My HDG 12 is my second favorite goose gun. My EH is number 1.