Trojan extractor

[peter cameron]

I am embarrassed to submit this as I am a complete novice. I have a 1913 Trojan 12 gage and had to send it to one of the members to service. Specifically, the extractor was rusted and stuck. Now, I'm afraid it's stuck again because I can't close the gun. I can't even figure out how to disassemble the stock from the barrels. I'd like some simple advice (diagrams) on how to separate the stock from the barrels; how to get oil down into the extractor pins; and then how to get the extractor moving without harming its function. Thank you.

[Fred Verry]

Peter, here is a link describing methods to remove the forend off a Trojan. I particularly like the "card method".

http://parkerguns.org/forums/showthread.php?t=19043

Once the forearm is off, with the barrels inverted, you will be able to see the extractor rod tip protruding through the barrel lug and the extractor retaining screw in the mid area in front of the rear lug. You should be able to move the extractor back and forth in the barrels with light thumb and finger pressure. If you decide to remove the screw, be sure to use the right size screwdriver tip not bugger the screw. Also be careful to not put pressure on the tip end of the forend when reassembling to avoid cracking the forend wood. HTH FV

[peter cameron]

Fred,

Thanks so much for the reply. I have no trouble taking off what they are calling the forend. My problem is that I can't get the barrels isolated (removed) from the stock (trigger portion of the gun). I have one piece (whole gun) and I want two (separate barrels and stock). If I can get the barrels isolated, then I can see the extractor screw, loosen it, and tap the extractor back and forth and maybe even remove and clean it. I simply can't and don't know how to break this gun apart.

[Fred Verry]

Peter, do the barrels move freely on the hook except for the ejector interfering with them closing? Does the top lever move or is it frozen in place? If they move freely, and with the gun unloaded, you could try dry firing both triggers to drop both hammers and remove tension off the cocking hook and slide,etc.. With the forend off and the Trojan breech open, you may have to take a narrow blunt rod such as a long cabinet screw driver (with tape covering the blade edge to prevent scratches) and depress the top lever release tab located at the bottom of the rear barrel lug recess in the frame. This should allow the top lever to release and move to the left. You should then be able to move the safety slide forward and pull the triggers dropping both hammers. Then grasping the barrels in one hand and the frame in the other hand, pushing upward and back with the barrels and down and forward with the frame, the cocking hook may release and allow the barrel hook to slide off the main pin and the barrels to be separated from the frame. If this does not work, I would advise you to send to one of the several "Parker knowledgable" gunsmiths mentioned in our restoration threads. HTH FV.

[Brian Dudley]

Likely a frozen up unhooking slide causeing your barrels to not unhook.
You are a PGCA member, so you get the Parker Pages. I wrote an article a few issues ago completely dedicated to the topic of barrels not unhooking. It may be of some use for you to give it a read.

[peter cameron]

Thank you so much for the explanation. The names of the parts are certainly confusing to me, but I will attempt to follow the instructions with full attention.

The squirrels seem to know that the gun is down because they are out there in the nut tree squawking at each other with impunity and the dog is just lying there with his paw over his eyes.