universal charge bar or mec charge bars

[Kirk Mckinney]

Gentlemen. I just ordered my mec sizemaster today. By the way Cabelas have them online for $236. You have to put it in the cart to get the discount. Back to the subject. I was looking to buy a universal charge bar. With the adjustments for charge and load I would think that would be the way to go . If they repeat and are durable. Anyone have any experience with them on here that might give me some insite on these or on the standard mec bushing style bars. Thanks in advance for all the years of experience on this site. See you in the field.

[Daryl Corona]

I've been using the UCB for quite some years and love them. I have them on all 5 of my MEC reloaders and find them quite repeatable and durable.
If you plan on tinkering with different loads then they are a good investment.

[Carvel Whaley]

If it is your first MEC, I would get the adjustable ones, I have found that the bushings seldom drop what they say and with the shot there are no bushings. With the adjustable ones, with some practice, you can get very close to what. I have 6 MEC machines and all have the adjustable bars. JMO Carvel

[William Davis]

Fixed charge bars don't often drop what they say and a box full of different bars and bushings is more expensive than a universal.

Having said that I don't have a Universal. Bought a bunch of old MEC stuff from a club member and can cover the charges. I will use one to big and line the chamber with blue painters tape to get precise shot weights sometimes, But mostly take it like it throws as long as it's close.

William

[Chuck Bishop]

I've just replaced the UCB on my Mec 9000H. I've had it so long, I can't remember what year it was I bought it. It was varying the powder charge too much due to wear in the mechanism. Bought a new one and it's fine. Make sure you get the proper one for your machine.

[Kirk Mckinney]

Cool thanks guys. I like the ideal of being adjustable. I loaded for a while with a lee powder measure with the disks for my 45 and after I bought a Dillon I never looked back. Do any of you use them on single stage I think I have to Manually push the bar back and forth. I was wondering if pushing on the dial changes the charge ?

[Jerry Harlow]

Universal charge bars are the way to go. When you get the powder or shot to the right amount, keep a notebook with the settings written down. Next time you will save yourself a lot of trouble. And remember 1 oz. settings for 9s will not throw 1 oz. in 7 1/2. So they will always be different.

The bushings always throw a lighter charge than advertised. They make them lawyer proof this way. Also, most adjustable bars come with a powder baffle. You need the baffle to get consistent drops of powder.

Manually pushing on the bar has no effect because they have a set screw that has an allen head so you can lock it down.

[Chuck Bishop]

I don't have one on my size master but I would assume you use the tab just like on you Mec charge bar. The dials do have a lock set screw. Always go past your setting, then dial it in the direction to decrease your weight, then measure your drop. Keep decreasing your drop till you get the desired weight.

[Kirk Mckinney]

Oh ok I didn't know they had a set screw. I have only seen one brand. Are there others. Is one better than another

[Jerry Harlow]

http://www.multiscalecharge.com/

Mine says Made in Canada, so I am hoping they still are.

[Kirk Mckinney]

Thanks J A. I saved it to my phone. I will take a look at it tomorrow.

[Kirk Mckinney]

Thanks guys. My mind is made up. Ucb will be on my press. Can anyone let me know a good brand of lead shot. I shoot 2 1/2 12 gauge lp shells there is magnum, chilled all kinds. I shoot skeet and dove and quail. And suggestions on where to start

[Richard Flanders]

I'm a UCB guy all the way. I have one on each of my 5 presses. The only complaint I have is that they seem to spill powder as they slide under the feed bottle. I've tried the rubber and brass washers and the metal and plastic feed necks and I'm still constantly sweeping up powder. Seems none of them work well. I may experiment with mounting one in a large baking sheet with the front removed just so I can more easily sweep the spilled powder up. I've tried everything but filing the bar top flat, which I've seen suggested somewhere. For now I just keep the table clean and use a 2.5" paint brush to sweep up the spilled powder. I find the UCB to throw very consistent charges. The tables that come with the UCB should be considered a starting point and pay attention to which way they tell you to be turning the knobs as you adjust the powder and shot charges.

[John Dallas]

My PW 800+ is mounted on a cookie sheet. Sure helps control any spilled shot, too.

[Paul Harm]

You won't " see " the set screws unless it's in front of you. They're small allen headless screws - or set screws. They're recessed in the bar.

[Matt Buckley]

I use a Universal Charge Bar and I love it. I'm always reloading different things and it's nice to be able to do all kinds of different loads with just one charge bar and not have to worry about having the right bushings. It's the only way to go in my book.

[Paul Harm]

Chilled shot is used for close in shooting - it's a little softer than Magnum shot. If you're worried about patterns or shooting be on 25 yds, use the magnum shot. Price difference isn't that much - I just use the magnum for everything.

[Kirk Mckinney]

Thanks Paul

[Kirk Mckinney]

Gentlemen. I just thought of this. When you say your powder charge varies. on my reloading of 45acp using a Dillon powder measure. I ran a ground wire to my press to eliminate static electricity. My press is bolted to my bench by the garage door. So I ran a wire from the mounting bolt out the door to a piece of rebar driven down into a flowerbed. It may seem like a lot but I can throw 5.1 gr. Of tite group all day long day after day with no variation. The owner of master cast told me to try it. It worked for me. See you in the field

[Kirk Mckinney]

Gentlemen... I opted to get the universal charge bar and it seems to throw all over the place.....I make my final adjustment counter clockwise just like the instructions say to do but it doesn't repeat very well. I Am wondering if its because of the banging around sliding it back and forth. Any suggestions some one might have.... I even have a ground wire to my press to eliminate static electricity. Its connected to a piece of rebar driven in the grown in a flowerbed just outside the garage door. But no luck. I Am throwing 700x 15 grains, If any one has any suggestions i'm all ears.
On another note... I just sent 5 different loads out for ballistic testing. I had to check each shell individually as I dont trust the bar. Sometimes its a whole grain or more off.
Thanks in advance for any suggestion.
See you in the field.

[Jerry Harlow]

Using a powder baffle? Powder must be above the minimum line on the MEC bottle. Always go bigger with the charge, then go down. I get consistent charges, but I have to do it several times before it settles down and becomes consistent.

[Steve Havener]

Using a powder baffle? Powder must be above the minimum line on the MEC bottle. Always go bigger with the charge, then go down. I get consistent charges, but I have to do it several times before it settles down and becomes consistent.

To get consistent loads I run my presses through the full load cycle 5 or 6 times to get the powder settled in the tube before I weigh for accuracy. Shot is not a concern because of it's weight and being spherical it will settle immediately. Consistency is the key to accuracy.

[Paul Harm]

I don't have that problem, but others have complained about the same thing. I have three UCB's on different presses and get pretty good drops. All I can think of is you must do the same thing every time to get consistent results. My drops may vary .3 of a grain, but that's about it. What kind of press are you using ?

[Kirk Mckinney]

I think maybe I didn't have enough powder in the bottle...I will at least fill it half way and see what happens. I am using a mec sizemaster with a short shell plate. Since I was only loading a few for ballistic testing I only put a little powder in the bottle. I like to let it sit in my garage instead of dumping and reloading the next week. Plus once in a while a lead shot will hang and I guess the slide will split it in two. Which makes it necessary to give a good hard knock on the end of the bar. If plus or minus .3 is ok surely I can get it to do that. But also I wanted each of the 30rds. to be exactly 15 grains for the tests ( I checked each one ). Thanks guys for all the input. It helps a beginner to be able to draw from so much experience. Much Appreciated
See you in the field.
P.S. Yes I am using the baffle that came with the universal charge bar.

[Kirk Mckinney]

Also does anyone know how I can get to the part of this site where they sell guns. I tried and it said that I wasnt able, that it was a restricted site???? anyone

[Mills Morrison]

You have to become a member of PGCA in order to access the for sale section. PGCA membership is well worth $40.

[Jack Kuzepski]

I've used the UCB for years on my MEC juniors and love it. That said, certain conditions prevail when I use it.
1) the powder and shot bottles cannot go too low, not less than an 1-1/2" of each in the bottle.
2) once the powder and shot cavities are fine tuned, tighten the set screws
3) do NOT use for the 410 or at least be VERY careful!! particularly for 2-1/2" shells. the cavities are so small and at times do not line up perfectly (squarely) under their respective bottles. I had experimented with center screw with a smaller head to allow the bar to center under the bottles better. I found it better to just have a special non-adjustable charge bar for each 410 load; provides peace of mind.

Jack Kuzepski

[Paul Harm]

Jack brought to mind something I had to do for light drops for my 28ga. The opening for powder in the bar wasn't going completely under the powder bottle. Because of the way you adjust the opening, it doesn't center under the bottle opening. I took the bar out and filed the slot longer in the frame so the stop screw could go farther over allowing the small opening to center under the bottle opening. I also tap the powder bottle when the bar is under it. Kirk was trying for 15grs, and that's getting pretty light - in other words, a small opening for powder to drop into. Try taking your bottles off and pull the handle down and check to see if the opening in the bar is centered under the bottle opening. You may have to operate on your press. Keep plenty of powder in the bottle, and throw away the baffle. If you're gonna keep it, grind out the center and use it for a drop tube.

[Jerry Harlow]

I personally like the powder baffle because it is spring loaded and eliminates the brass ring and rubber o-ring for the powder side on a MEC. I find the latter to affect the drop greatly since it does block the squared cavity compared to the round hole found on the MEC factory charge bars.

Also, if you are cutting shot are you using the washer and rubber gasket? This usually prevents cutting shot.

Just my 2 cents; not worth much.

[Kirk Mckinney]

Yes I think I have all the rings and gaskets in proper order.. I did it like the instructions that came with it said to.... I will try some of the things that yall recommended and see what happens...I will check to make sure the opening is under the bottle and put more powder in the bottle.... I am thinking that should do it. Just spoke to keith at Precision Reloading and he is going to test my loads this morning I am excited... Iam hoping the 3/4 oz load works well.. I see why everyone on here shoots small loads.. not only does it save on supplies there is really no need for more.... do yall think 3/4 oz loads is enough to hunt with, dove and quail ??? I guess if you can hit them even 2 oz of shot wont help. lol

[Jerry Harlow]

I use 1 ounce minimum in 12 when hunting, the fluid steel guns up to 1 1/8. Never 1 1/4 except turkeys.

I owe it to wild game not to cripple it by having an insufficient load when I misjudge the distance, especially doves where one makes multiple mistakes on distance in a single day. Nothing worse than to see a dove start to tumble and regain its composure just to get away to die later.

[Jack Kuzepski]

Kirk,

A 3/4 oz. shot charge should be good for dove and quail, a lot of it depends on the range, shot size and choke. Remember - it doesn't matter the size of the package if you send it to the wrong address!

Jack Kuzepski

[Kirk Mckinney]

Jack and AJ. Thanks for the input. I also have a 7/8 load I may hunt with. Or maybe 1oz. I just like 3/4 oz. And my load for 3/4 is pushing 1200 fps with 5000 psi. I bet they are gonna be sweet to shoot. As soon as I get this huge chest of drawers I'm building for my closet out of my garage. I plan on loading and shooting skeet and I forget what they call it , where they take you through the woods and throw skeet over trees and across the pond etc. But I'm with you AJ on not wanting to wound game. I will sort it all out by the fall. But as I should be shooting and loading I'm working on my house. It's gonna get hot here in Texas in a few weeks. I don't really like to come back from the range all sweaty. But it will be worth it instead of missing birds during season. Can't wait to breakout my old double on a crisp cool morning. I have 4 boxes of bismuth from rst for ducks. Should get me thru one season. Which do y'all think is better for non toxic reloading. Bismuth or that xti. I think that what it's called. What are the opinions on that for a lp load for 12 gauge 2 1/2 load. Thanks for the input

[Paul Harm]

Can't answer the Bismuth or XTI question. I usually push my 3/4oz 12ga loads up near 1300fps. Still no recoil and clean powder burns. I also use the large bottles for shot and powder and only let them get 1/2 way empty. The powder would be more important. That way there's always plenty of powder pushing down for consistent loads. Just a thought. In the past when I didn't have the bottle support for large bottles, I taped them together with a 1x2 spacer. Maybe just use a large one for powder. That way there isn't a lot of weight sticking up so high. I load 2 1/2 like 2 3/4 but use fiber wads or a shorter plastic wad. A Claybuster 1100 wad meant for 1 1/8oz has a shorter cushion height than a 0178 meant for 7/8oz. Just try loading 7/8oz in the 1100 with powder data for 7/8oz - bet it will fit. The ends of the wad may bend over.