Rust spots

[Rick Riddell]

What do you about rust spots?

[Steve Huffman]

Cry ! besides that there are already some posts on this you might do a search .

[Dean Romig]

Depends on the severity and the depth of the pitting under the rust scale.

You might try Frontier Pads on the rust. It will knock down the pitting but will not harm the barrel finish or th case color on the frame.





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[Steve Huffman]

Dean the pads you talk about are they copper in color or silver ? I took a good strong magnet to both and it stuck to both maybe I had a false Frontier pad but it left tiny scratches on the barrel I was doing. I have been using a copper penny ever since !

[Dean Romig]

Steve, they are silver in color and look like an aluminum chip coil off a lathe... but they are NOT aluminum.

They are Big 45 FRONTIER Metal Cleaner, Rust and Dirt Remover
"Will not harm the finest blued surfaces" according to the package they come in.

I've never heard of a "false Frontier pad."

I use them for everything on the metal surfaces of my Parkers (that need it) and use them to clean the bores too.





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[Rick Riddell]

Thanks guys, sorry for the repeated question, the search option doesnt work on my tablet, Dean thanks the pitting is very shallow, I just noticed it was turning orange after a hunt, I'll pick up a few pads and give it a go!

[wayne goerres]

Dont forget to use some oil with the pads.

[Dean Romig]

Or Hoppe's No. 9






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[allen newell]

Be careful using Hoppes #9, it will remove bluing etc. I use Rem Oil when scrubbing with a Frontier Pad.

[Dean Romig]

Be careful using Hoppes #9, it will remove bluing etc. I use Rem Oil when scrubbing with a Frontier Pad.



I know Hoppe's Benchrest will damage case colors, solder, and blueing but I've never heard bad things about No. 9





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[Eric Estes]

Me either about No. 9. Ballistoil also works great with frontier pads.

[allen newell]

Took the case colors off a 16 of mine. I only use G96 for all around cleaning and only Rem Oil on outside surfaces

[Dean Romig]

I don't like Rem Oil at all... It doesn't stay. Almost like it "beads up".






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[John Cinkoske]

If you can find it, real sperm oil works well to liquefy proud rust but doesn't seem to harm bluing. I just dab it on with a fingertip and leave it there as long as you can. (sometimes for a week) Then I use the Frontier 45 pad to wipe it off. It sort of looks muddy before you wipe it off...

[allen newell]

If I find any surface crud on my guns, I'll spray a little G96 on a Frontier Pad and scrub it off. When I'm cleaning the interior of barrels after a shoot, I'll spray G96 on the brush which also has a few strands of a Frontier Pad wrapped around the bronze brush, then scrub the interior surfaces before running the patches through. One can not say enough about Frontier Pads for cleaning interior/exterior surfaces without harm. I prefer G96 over all other cleaning agents (I don't find this stuff in too many places) as it cleans without harming case colors or blued surfaces. My experience only.

[edgarspencer]

I don't think Hoppes No.9 would be around for nearly a hundred years if it removed bluing. I can believe it might stain or have some effect on cold bluing (Birchwood Casey or Brownells Oxpho Blue), but not cold rust bluing, hot bluing, or nitre bluing.

[Joe Dreisch]

Just got a new bunch of Frontier pads. They're selling a new lube/cleaner/protectant called Safari Charlie so I ordered a bottle. Just tried it on a 1 frame 16 project and it did a good job. I still use WD-40 when I'm serious with the rust. Safari Charlie cuts the hardened gunk right out of screw slots but haven't used it long enough to see it's full potential.

Big45metalcleaner.com is the website.

Joe

[allen newell]

Edgar, we won't be around for a hundred years, must be something wrong with us! LOL