hi. Need some info on a damascus double barrel

[Larry Nowicki]

I'm new here so this is intro as well as first post. I'm into Bladesmithing and like to do damascus. A friend gave me a damascus shotgun to cut up for the steel. I'm also doing some things with some cowboy reinactors. The gun is missing stocks safety spring and triger guard. Seems a shame to cut it up if it can be put back into workable condition....even with blanks for some reenactments. The serial # is 3 92895. What do you think.

[Dean Romig]

Is it a Parker Bros. shotgun or made by another maker?

[Bill Holcombe]

392895 would be too high to be a parker bros. Especially a damascus one.

Unless its a grade 3 serial # 92895.

Any pics?

[Larry Nowicki]

It is a Parker. I guess it is a grade 3 serial # 92895. It is damascus. I'll get a pict later today.

[Bill Murphy]

A hammerless grade 3 has value beyond cutting it up for knife blades. I thought knifemakers who use Damascus either make their own or buy Damascus blanks. Cutting up shotguns sounds a bit strange.

[Larry Nowicki]

some pics

[Rick Losey]

the blade smith I knew made his "damascus" from worn Harley chains

that serial number should be a 12 gauge with 30" barrels

how long are they now

what are the bores like and what are the markings on the underside of the barrels?

there should be a single digit on the back barrel lug and a set of offset numbers on the barrel flats

[Larry Nowicki]

I do make my own damascus but was thinking of maybe some pipe hawks. I'd rather keep it as a gun.

[Rick Losey]

I do make my own damascus but was thinking of maybe some pipe hawks. I'd rather keep it as a gun.

good choice Larry - depending on the condition of the bores and the engraving this may well be work restocking - or look for an old take off

since you show the action open, can we assume the foreend iron is still there?

as a former F&I re-enactor - good pipe hawks material is scrap muzzleloader barrels

Beaver Bill used to do them from scrap sections he got from Getz, the one I just sold still had rifling in the bore, not sure if pieces would be available from Rice or Colerain.

[Larry Nowicki]

the blade smith I knew made his "damascus" from worn Harley chains

that serial number should be a 12 gauge with 30" barrels

how long are they now

what are the bores like and what are the markings on the underside of the barrels?

there should be a single digit on the back barrel lug and a set of offset numbers on the barrel flats

They are 30" long. Bores are a little dirty but not bad. Looks like on the underside of the barrel 4s on the right side then patt apr 11 1876 and 3 on the right

[Larry Nowicki]

good choice Larry - depending on the condition of the bores and the engraving this may well be work restocking - or look for an old take off

since you show the action open, can we assume the foreend iron is still there?

as a former F&I re-enactor - good pipe hawks material is scrap muzzleloader barrels

Beaver Bill used to do them from scrap sections he got from Getz, the one I just sold still had rifling in the bore, not sure if pieces would be available from Rice or Colerain.

Not sure what the foreend iron is?

[Bill Holcombe]

He is talking about the forearm piece. The piece of wood under the barrels.

[Larry Nowicki]

He is talking about the forearm piece. The piece of wood under the barrels.

No forearm piece at all. I would need that also.

[Bill Holcombe]

If it is indeed a 3 or D grade it could be a lovely gun when fixed up. It won't be cheap though. Brian Dudley could probably give you an idea what you would be in for. Any chance you could take a closer pic of the side of the reciever and the water table (where the barrels rest on the receiver) under side of the barrel flats would be interesting as well.

[Gerald McPherson]

Also you might check with your friend to see if he has any other parts for the gun. The more you have the better.

[Brian Dudley]

The gun is a grade 3 (or DH). I can just make out the DH engraving on the frame.

If you have no forend then what is holding the action to the barrels in the open state shown in the photos? Something tells me that you at least have the Forend iron. Just no wood.

[Bill Holcombe]

I figured it was, but wasn't confident that the circles weren't for a gh.

[Rick Losey]

He is talking about the forearm piece. The piece of wood under the barrels.

Actually As Brian also suspects. I was asking about the metal part

[Larry Nowicki]

The gun is a grade 3 (or DH). I can just make out the DH engraving on the frame.

If you have no forend then what is holding the action to the barrels in the open state shown in the photos? Something tells me that you at least have the Forend iron. Just no wood.

I think it is just no wood. I'll get more picts tomorrow.

[Bill Holcombe]

I didn't even know you could attach the metal without the wood.

[Richard Flanders]

The forend iron has to be there or it wouldn't be staying together in the first pic where it's resting on the blue tote.

[edgarspencer]

If you have no forend then what is holding the action to the barrels in the open state shown in the photos?

The forend iron has to be there or it wouldn't be staying together in the first pic where it's resting on the blue tote.

Unless the cocking hook won't release from the barrels, which may be why it was taken apart in the first place.

[Dean Romig]

BINGO... I'll bet that's it... maybe.

[Brian Dudley]

You can. Just the iron can be attached as long as the swivel key is in place.

[Dean Romig]

What is a "swivel key"?

[Brian Dudley]

The small part that is pinned into the Forend iron that actually engages the forend loop on the barrels. It is what holds the forend onto the gun. It is engaged by the latch and is held back into the loop by the spring pressure from the latch.

[Dean Romig]

Oh, the 'Deely style' latch. I get it now.... just different nomenclatures.

[Fred Verry]

Larry, the barrels by themselves have value that would preclude being cut up for the steel. Altering or modifying them will destroy that value. That includes some of the common "Cowboy" modifications/mutilations of shortening them or opening and reaming the chamber mouths. Have someone that can properly evaluate a Parker look at the gun. I am sure we would have volunteers from this assoc. that would be willing to do that, if you post what area you are in. Restore it, sell it, or display it as a conversation piece, but please don't destroy it.

[Rick Losey]

As I said before - muzzleloader barrels are a good and historically correct source for pipe tomahawk head material

Larry- check your PMs

[Larry Nowicki]

Larry, the barrels by themselves have value that would preclude being cut up for the steel. Altering or modifying them will destroy that value. That includes some of the common "Cowboy" modifications/mutilations of shortening them or opening and reaming the chamber mouths. Have someone that can properly evaluate a Parker look at the gun. I am sure we would have volunteers from this assoc. that would be willing to do that, if you post what area you are in. Restore it, sell it, or display it as a conversation piece, but please don't destroy it.

I don't plan on destroying it. I'm leaning toward restoring it. I'm in Baltimore Maryland.

[Larry Nowicki]

more pics

[Bill Holcombe]

No forend iron of any kind. The cocking hook must be hung.

[Larry Nowicki]

No forend iron of any kind. The cocking hook must be hung.

That is what I figured. Are they available? are picts or plans available so I can fabricate one ? I'll need trigger guard and safety spring also.

[Bill Holcombe]

Someone can answer those questions, but it is beyond my depth of knowledge. You can find parker parts on ebay, but fit is tricky on some.

You need to make sure you have all the internal parts as well, plus you are missing some screws.

I will leave it up to some of our more knowledgeable members to answer what you need.

[Larry Nowicki]

Thanks

[Brian Dudley]

The cocking hook is just hung up.

First try closing the gun and than dry firing it. Then try opening it. If it Unhooks then you are there. If not, then you have to do surgery to get the barrels off. Either way the unhooking issue will have to be corrected. It could be a couple different things causing it.

I can help you with most any parts you may need if you want to contact me.

Personally this gun, even at a grade 3, would be a labor of love and would not be financially beneficial. The main question is what condition the barrels are in. If the bores have pitting, I would not try to bring it back.

[Larry Nowicki]

The cocking mechanism works fine. The left trigger need a little adjustment. Haven't cleaned the barrel to check for pitting yet. Even if I can get it to work with blanks for some of the reenactment it would be great. There is one skit, I am the town blacksmith. There is a gunfight in the street. The bad guys are mostly dead. As the Sheriff and deputies turn and go back towards the jail, one of the bad guys gets up and starts toward them. When he passes me by my anvil I can step out with the shotgun and take him down. The Sheriff turns and gives an appreciative nod.....