Buggered screw removal

[Bill Holcombe]

Have a buddy I shoot skeet with who recently found a really beat up VH. We met up at lunch so he could show it to me and to use my set of screw drivers to take it apart. All was going well until we got to the screw at the bottom of the floor plate just above the triggers.

Whomever had owned it previously had buggered the heck out of the screws on this gun, and really did a number on this screw. Even with the right fitting screw, there just isn't enough surface left of the screw to get it with the screw driver anymore.

Suggestions?

The gun functions, so all in all we could just leave it assembled, but he would really like to make sure there isn't a bunch of rust in it or anything.

He also might consider replacing the screws, there are a set of 0 frame screws on ebay right now, would those work on his 1 frame or would he need to get someone to make them?

[Dean Romig]

As a last resort, try using a drill press to remove that screw. With the constant downward force provided by the press and with a nice sharp driver bit of the correct size mounted in the jaws you might get lucky.

I believe all screws used on the various frame sized are the same for the corresponding positions.

[Bill Murphy]

Once the screws are removed, I would buy a screw set from Galazan. I prefer to restore screws by peening and filing, but the screw you describe sounds hopeless.

[Bill Holcombe]

Yeah its so worn out, I will probably have to put a screw in the top of it to try and unscrew it. Thats if Rick wants to go to the trouble.

[John Campbell]

A photo of this buggered pin (screw) would be helpful.

But lacking that, and if you want the screw out without damaging the rest of the bottom plate, I'd take the gun to Briley's in Houston. They can get it out for a small fee. And it might be a whole lot less than fixing any damage you may inadvertently cause.

[Bill Holcombe]

Thanks John. I hadn't thought about telling him to go to Brileys. Freer gun shop might be able to do that as well. Thanks for the assist.

[Bill Holcombe]

Once the screws are removed, I would buy a screw set from Galazan. I prefer to restore screws by peening and filing, but the screw you describe sounds hopeless.

Bill, how much trouble are fitting those screws from Galazan? We have no experience with this type of stuff.

[Brian Dudley]

The Galazan screws, as with any screws are high headed. They need to be fitted for both screw slot alignment and also head height.

[Bill Holcombe]

Thx Brian, I managed to find an old post of your advising the use of a cordless drill to file off the bottom of the screw head. Was this using a metal file or a flat head screw driver?

[Jerry Harlow]

I have a small ratchet that is in the Chapman screw driver set. It fits right over the Chapman and Brownells bits right down to the blade of the bit. Then the screw driver handle can go over it to help hold it straight. The torque is then applied right to the screw close to it with the ratchet which prevents the blade from turning out and buggering it more. I have removed very buggered screws frozen in place and even the dreaded roll pin screws, and have yet to have one I could not break in this manner.

It does not slip out when this method is used as it does when the torque is at the top of the screwdriver handle. A two person job to prevent damage though.

[Brian Dudley]

I use a drill press to file under the heads. While spinning a file is used to remove a little material at a time until the screw slot is aligned.

When making screws from scratch it is done a little differently, but the above is the way to go with the Galazan screws.

[Bill Holcombe]

Just for others to use, Brileys removed the screw no damage no issues, for $80. It took them 3 weeks due to prior work load, but it was taken care of and they returned the screw in question, which I have now managed to repair and put back in the gun. It isn't a perfect screw, but it goes well with the rest of the somewhat beatup appearance of the VH in question. Thanks again!