Beginner here, with new to me Parker DH

[Cal Genereux]

I'm wondering where I can find some instruction on properly cleaning up my new gun. I've owned many guns but not a collector like this. It is in "as found" condition. I want to clean it up but not do anything that would detract from the value. It isn't even in my possession yet, I expect it will be later next week. I just want to have some knowledge on what to do and not and gather any needed supplies. If someone can point me to a section of the forum or an FAQ or article it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.

[Brian Dudley]

The best way for you to start would be by posing good photos here so that we may see what you are working with. Apart from having the gun mechanically cleaned and looked over for good function, there is not much that can be suggested without actually seeing it.

Anything beyond that would effect value. Either positively or negatively.

[Cal Genereux]

The best way for you to start would be by posing good photos here so that we may see what you are working with. Apart from having the gun mechanically cleaned and looked over for good function, there is not much that can be suggested without actually seeing it.

Anything beyond that would effect value. Either positively or negatively.

Thank you Mr. Dudley. here are some pics from the ad, fortunately I have a good camera and will be able to post some more pics after I get the gun.

http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx131/mule2ears/Frame2_zpsjymocrmi.jpg

http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx131/mule2ears/Pistol%20Grip_zpsbb4kdvil.jpg

http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx131/mule2ears/Parker%20Frame_zpsdmdf3ayi.jpg

http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx131/mule2ears/Trigger%20guard_zpsl8nmdhy8.jpg

Hope these help. Again, any input is welcome. As I mentioned, I own many guns and know how to clean a hunting weapon but I'm concerned about a collectible like this one. I know there are many do's and don'ts. I want to do the right ones and don't do the wrong ones. I know the gun needs some professional help and as finances permit those will be tended to.

[Brian Dudley]

Based on the little I see, the stock looks to be in very good shape. Unfourtunately, the frame looks to have virtually no original finish left on it and rust has taken its toll over the years and created pitting problems. The engraving looks to have a bit of west in areas as well. I would say that there is nothing you can do to hurt the value of the gun as far as metal condition since the damage has already been done. That statement relates to cleaning and such. Obviously buffing and filing is bad.

Something that the gun could benefit from is the replacement of screws since some of them are in bad shape. But then you start getting into restoration territory.

[Steve Huffman]

What is the gauge and frame size of this ? Looks to be smaller than 12 gauge .

[Cal Genereux]

What is the gauge and frame size of this ? Looks to be smaller than 12 gauge .

It is a 10ga. with 30" bbls. #3 Frame.


Mr. Dudley:
Thank you for the advice, I knew the frame was the weakest point condition wise, I'm hoping when I get it in my hands it will look a little better!

I will take several "before" pics as soon as it arrives and post them here so I can benefit from everyone's great advice. I just officially became a PGCA member about 2am today!

Thanks in advance.

[Rick Losey]

for the rust on the action - to not further damages the engraving - barrels

use a Frontier pad

http://www.exploreproducts.com/big45-frontier-gun-cleaner.htm

[Steve Huffman]

Well I got that backwards ! Cal must have large hands, and I like the gun too !

[Drew Hause]

Cal: you will soon have what will be a nice 'shooter', but very few 100 year old guns couldn't benefit from a disassembly and cleaning by a doublegun / Parker specialist like Brian Dudley. And before use it is obligatory to have the wall thickness of the barrels checked.

Clean up tips that might help
http://www.lcsmith.org/faq/cleangun2.html

[Drew Hause]

And BTW: someone may certainly use my suggestions on the Smith site as a starting place for Parker specific cleaning for the FAQ on the Home Page here.

[Cal Genereux]

Thank you gentlemen all. I had been to the Smith site as I also own a LC Smith that I bought on GB. I have ordered a Big 45 Frontier pad. I had just watched a youtube video on that this morning. I watched with some suspicion as it looked like a simple steel wool scouring pad. But with your recommendation I'll give it a try. As soon as my new gun arrives, I'll take some good close-ups and post them here to let you all evaluate and suggest my next steps. Again, thanks to you all. And finally a few more pics from the ad:

http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx131/mule2ears/pix424665546_zpstixs4ink.jpg

http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx131/mule2ears/pix573872563_zpsmuzdq11j.jpg

http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx131/mule2ears/pix070637132_zps1husmcdi.jpg

[Steve Huffman]

Do you have the serial number of this ?

[Cal Genereux]

Do you have the serial number of this ?

83,XXX is all I have. I believe that makes it an 1895 gun?

[Brian Dudley]

Jeeze, the barrel and wood condition looks great! Yes, the frame finish looks to be the worst part. Looks to be a great gun overall.

[Cal Genereux]

Thanks, I hope so. Can't wait to get a good look in real life. I've no intention of shooting her, just admiring her every now and then and turning it into an heirloom to hand down to my son, to go along with the Smith and a Greener.

[Jerry Harlow]

Some may disagree, but I would use Flitz and a soft cotton cloth to bring the receiver back. I do not believe it removes any of the engraving detail but it sure removes many stains on the metal. I like a D grade receiver with no case colors to be put in the white where all of the engraving is cleaned and prominent.

[Dean Romig]

I just can't imagine why you wouldn't want to shoot it.... somebody else already has.

[Cal Genereux]

I saw on the Smith page where I can use some Romex wire cut to a fine point to etch out the dirt from the engraving. Looks tedious but would be woth it I'm sure. I have some flitz, I'll give that a try. I believe you are right, there are no case colors left.

[Cal Genereux]

I just can't imagine why you wouldn't want to shoot it.... somebody else already has.

I suppose if the opportunity presents itself, but I would need to get it checked out first and find some light loads for it.

[Dean Romig]

Hi Cal - we don't wait for the opportunity to shoot a newly acquired Parker to present itself.... we make it happen - and happen often. :smiley7:

[Craig Parker]

I put in bid and I Was going to shoot it, I think it was a nice buy Cal.IMO
Craig

[Cal Genereux]

I hope so, its the most I've ever spent on a gun. I shouldn't have said I'll never shoot it because I will I'm sure. I've a question though, where will I find ammo I can shoot in a damascus 10ga? I haven't shot a damascus double since I was a kid, and then we loaded our own black powder shotshells. And I was a kid a long time ago....

[Brian Dudley]

RST

[Cal Genereux]

RST

Thanks Mr. Dudley. I have now found them online. I'm sure no one around me carries them. I guess next I need to determine the chamber length in my gun. What were the common 10ga chamber lengths in 1895?

[scott kittredge]

Thanks Mr. Dudley. I have now found them online. I'm sure no one around me carries them. I guess next I need to determine the chamber length in my gun. What were the common 10ga chamber lengths in 1895?

Most are 2 7/8ths inches, you can find info here under reloading.
Check out loading the short 10. pete lester has a lot of info here for loading the 10 ga, scott

[Bob Hardison]

Some may disagree, but I would use Flitz and a soft cotton cloth to bring the receiver back. I do not believe it removes any of the engraving detail but it sure removes many stains on the metal. I like a D grade receiver with no case colors to be put in the white where all of the engraving is cleaned and prominent.

Jerry: I agree with you that "in the white" looks better than one with 20% case color and mottled brown looking. How do you achieve in the white without damaging the engraving and causing it to shine like a new penny? Bob

[Cal Genereux]

Jerry: I agree with you that "in the white" looks better than one with 20% case color and mottled brown looking. How do you achieve in the white without damaging the engraving and causing it to shine like a new penny? Bob

I too would like to know the answer to this. It will probably be how this gun ends up. I don't think a complete refurbish is in its future.

[Fred Verry]

Cal and Bob, ultrasonic cleaning is often used to achieve the results you were discussing. You can click on search feature at the top of the Forum pages to find previous posts and threads discussing this topic by typing in ultrasonic cleaner. Cal, I am sending you a PM. HTH

[Jerry Harlow]

Jerry: I agree with you that "in the white" looks better than one with 20% case color and mottled brown looking. How do you achieve in the white without damaging the engraving and causing it to shine like a new penny? Bob

Bob,

I bought a DH one time that the receiver had been buffed so bright, I thought it was plated. A drop of cold blue told me it was polished steel. I put light coats of cold blue on it and worked it with 0000 and oil until it was a satin grey to my liking, as it remains today. It looks like guns that have a patina from use. But even if you use Flitz, the amount of engraving on a DH will not make it look bright for it will dull with handling.

[Cal Genereux]

Well, I am finally in possession of my "new to me" Parker D in 10ga. I have taken a bunch of close-ups that I'll post is a few posts. Tell me what I can and can't do to take good care of her. I'd like to get rid of any corrosion if possible but of course, don't want to damage anything in the process. I've taken a few pics of its many flaws (those darn buggered up screws look like warts on Miss America). I know I paid a pretty penny for her but its to become a family heirloom not so much as an investment.

Figure I'll start with a few pics of the engraving:
http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx131/mule2ears/Parker/IMGP4136_zpswaspt6as.jpg

http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx131/mule2ears/Parker/IMGP4123_zpszmbfvqnj.jpg

http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx131/mule2ears/Parker/IMGP4122_zpsplsmllc7.jpg

I'll add three or four as I go. Please feel free to comment. If I'm adding too many pics please let me know!

[Dean Romig]

Well Cal, you're right about those screws.... You'll need to send it out to have them replaced and timed correctly. Other than that, it looks pretty nice - engraving still looks pretty sharp considering its age. Looking forward to many more pictures... How long are the barrels?

[Cal Genereux]

Those screwed up screws really bother me. I think they detract more from the gun than anything else. What can be done?

Now a few pics of the forearm including some dent placed there sometime in the last 110 years.

http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx131/mule2ears/Parker/IMGP4116_zpstto8tmli.jpg

http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx131/mule2ears/Parker/IMGP4115_zps97wwce6p.jpg

http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx131/mule2ears/Parker/IMGP4114_zpslc7nn29v.jpg

http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx131/mule2ears/Parker/IMGP4113_zpsit0p7trf.jpg

This is all I'll post for now. Thank you all for your patience and assistance in this endeavor!:bowdown:

[Dean Romig]

WOW!! That's in nice shape! More pics please.

[Dean Romig]

Don't worry about those dents in the wood. If you try to repair them you will lose some of the desirable original finish.

[Cal Genereux]

I guess I'll add some more pics then!

http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx131/mule2ears/Parker/IMGP4122_zpssgtfdl6r.jpg

http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx131/mule2ears/Parker/IMGP4140_zps2jsycooe.jpg

http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx131/mule2ears/Parker/IMGP4139_zpszxx5ebgk.jpg

http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx131/mule2ears/Parker/IMGP4138_zps5fgcdqjf.jpg

Any suggestions on where to get the screws replaced? It will probably have to wait a little while, the purchase of this drained my toy account for a while...

[Cal Genereux]

Now a few of the bbls. 10 ga. #3 Frame. 30", unknown chokes.

http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx131/mule2ears/Parker/IMGP4119_zpsaoq2pfwt.jpg

http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx131/mule2ears/Parker/IMGP4118_zpsjo8duort.jpg

http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx131/mule2ears/Parker/IMGP4117_zpssgze1kir.jpg

[Cal Genereux]

Is this the correct grip cap?

http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx131/mule2ears/Parker/IMGP4131_zps2fhkmamp.jpg

http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx131/mule2ears/Parker/IMGP4130_zpseno7gzxw.jpg

http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx131/mule2ears/Parker/IMGP4129_zpszdwnlidp.jpg

What else should I post pics of?

[Dean Romig]

Everything about that gun looks totally correct Cal.

I would NOT use Flitz on the gun but instead would use Frontier Pads and a solvent like Hoppe's but I would definitely remove the wood before attempting any clean-up at all. That original finish is much too nice to compromise with an 'Oops" moment.

[Cal Genereux]

I have the frontier pads and the hoppes, but I am reluctant to try to separate the stock from the frame myself. That may have to be done by another. I'll stick to the bbls for now. What do you think of waxing the wood (after a mild cleaning)?

[Dean Romig]

To "err on the side of caution" is the best policy when it comes to nice old guns. I have never waxed any of my guns... I always use Balistol lightly on the wood finish as well as the metal. If you use wax, use it sparingly. Some waxes have a light solvent in them and can affect the original shellac finish.

[Cal Genereux]

To "err on the side of caution" is the best policy when it comes to nice old guns. I have never waxed any of my guns... I always use Balistol lightly on the wood finish as well as the metal. If you use wax, use it sparingly. Some waxes have a light solvent in them and can affect the original shellac finish.

The wax I have is the same wax used at the Springfield Armory on their guns. Referred to in this article by David Arnold the conservator there: http://www.gunsinternational.com/articles.cfm?id=72

Specifically its called Liberon Black Bison. I haven't used any on it yet and I won't if you think it unwise. I assumed, maybe wrongly, that the author knew of what he spoke.

I have used the renaissance wax he refers to on the metal of my Greener and was pleased with the results. Appearancewise anyway.

I figure you folks know Parkers and I'll follow whatever you have to say.:bowdown:

[Cal Genereux]

A few more pics:

http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx131/mule2ears/IMGP4143_zpstjbrwr47.jpg

http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx131/mule2ears/IMGP4142_zps7x2sdu8v.jpg

http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx131/mule2ears/IMGP4141_zpszdygkldh.jpg

Thanks for the comments, keep them coming.

Pardon the poor focus, I'm using a manual lens on a DSLR and getting the two to work together can be a challenge.

[scott kittredge]

wow ,what a nice gun, If you didn't already post it, what is the lop and dah?
scott

[Cal Genereux]

wow ,what a nice gun, If you didn't already post it, what is the lop and dah?
scott

Truthfully I haven't measured either. I bought the gun as an heirloom/collectible and its fit for shooting wasn't a consideration. I will, however measure those tomorrow and post them here. Those are things I should know about this gun but don't. Thank you for asking.

[Cal Genereux]

A few more pics I haven't yet posted.

http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx131/mule2ears/Parker/IMGP4126_zpsdmtpkknu.jpg

http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx131/mule2ears/Parker/IMGP4125_zpsv49koh0y.jpg

http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx131/mule2ears/Parker/IMGP4124_zpsgrgjwtrp.jpg

http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx131/mule2ears/Parker/IMGP4123_zpsyv4ldo12.jpg

The last two show a flaw in the wood. I think it was created when put back together. It is difficult to see but a small piece is pushed up where it meets the frame. I'm not sure what I can do about it. It can't be pushed down as the frame is in the way. Suggestions welcome.

[Cal Genereux]

Is the choke noted on the flats somewhere?

http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx131/mule2ears/Parker/IMGP4119_zpsaoq2pfwt.jpg

[Dean Romig]

No, Parker Bros didn't mark the chokes on their guns.

[Thomas L. Benson Sr.]

Cal: I would be proud to own that Parker 10 and would put it to good use as I'm sure you will. Thomas

[Cal Genereux]

Thanks to everyone who has contributed, all your comments have been most helpful. I ordered my research letter yesterday too!

[Cal Genereux]

Truthfully I haven't measured either. I bought the gun as an heirloom/collectible and its fit for shooting wasn't a consideration. I will, however measure those tomorrow and post them here. Those are things I should know about this gun but don't. Thank you for asking.

Finally got around to it Scott, LOP is 14", DAC 2" and DAH 3" I may be off an eighth or so with either of the drop measurements but that's pretty close. Thanks for asking.

[Cal Genereux]

My gun was advertised as a "D" grade, is there a difference between the "D" and "DH"? I'm familiar with the E meaning ejectors but I didn't know about the plain "D" and I didn't find it referenced in the Parker Identification section. Thanks in advance.

[Rick Losey]

the H simply means hammerless

so for example a DHE is a hammerless D grade with ejectors

[Dean Romig]

Cal, the H represents Hammerless - which is what you have.

[Cal Genereux]

Thanks to both of you gentlemen. I figured it stood for hammer or hammerless. I guess mine is actually a DH then, not a D.

[Cal Genereux]

Was any (or all) of the engraving on these guns done by hand? I know Greener had their "machine" engraving, what about our Parkers?

[Brian Dudley]

The only rolled on engraving used on Parkers was on the 0 grade hammer gun lock plates in the 1880s. did not last long. All other engraving is by hand.

[Bruce Day]

I don't think a roll stamp could do this, but I could be wrong........

[Cal Genereux]

Thank you both gentlemen, I suspected (and hoped) that it was all by hand. Amazing workmanship, I'm proud to own such a piece of American craftsmanship. :usa:

[Dean Romig]

The rib matting was done by machine and the legend on the rib was usually roll-stamped, though some of the higher grades and some of the early hammer guns rib legends were hand engraved.

[Brian Dudley]

This is an example of the rolled on "engraving" I mentioned in my post above.

40331