Reproduction stock refinis

[John Mellinger]

If refinishing a repro stock, what is best way to remove existing finish? Does it come off pretty easy? Also, is the metal medallion under the buttstock brass or does it have a finish that is going to come off in the process? Thanks for the help.

[Dean Romig]

That stuff is almost bullet-proof. I stripped the stock on one myself but had so much difficulty that I can't recommend a good effective way.

[Scot Cardillo]

Had the bowling alley finish on a 28 that needed a good clean up..stuff cuts right through it with ease and it scrapes off like it's nothing using a couple pcs of plastic (Delrin) ground up to a scraper/knife edge ..a belt or disc sander to keep the scrapers edge touched up is a must..follow with denatured alcohol to expose any spots missed.

Medallion should come through your refinish unscathed...avoid it w/fine sandpaper as it will shine up unpleasantly w/an uneven finish..scotchbrite will restore it to a nice even finish should you get a little sloppy with sandpaper but go easy as it doesn't take much.

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[Dave Suponski]

Scott, That looks like a nice LeBlond lathe in the background. I like running LeBlonds....

[Dave Fuller]

Klean Strip Aircraft paint remover works but it takes a lot of work. Results can be good however.

Also, make a board to keep track of screws.

[Brian Dudley]

Repros are finished with Utithane which, as Dean said is very hard to remove. Some Urithane finishes are so difficult, only sanding them will get them off.

The stock ovals on Repros are very thick. About 1/16" or more. Vs. the Meriden guns that were very thin.

[Scot Cardillo]

Scott, That looks like a nice LeBlond lathe in the background. I like running LeBlonds....

Thanks Dave..yes, LeBlonds are very nice. The one pictured has been run hard & I've been threatening to have it rebuilt as new machines simply do not compare.


Never have tried Klean Strip..

..I have to say with all respect that the finish is not that difficult to remove..a little tedious being cautious near edges etc but not really difficult at all. The Zip Strip w/a plastic scraper works like a champ..the finish just rolls right off but what does not come off in the initial swipe of the scraper just has to be worked a bit while the finish is still softened.

[Richard Skeuse]

Ron Gunn is right about the screws, they are all suppose to go back where they came from. You will notice that they are all horizontal or vertical. the hinge pin is that way also. Look at the guns that are for sale on GI or Gun Broker. You can tell which ones have been opened up and messed with. If it does not look like the picture you took before working on the gun you have them in the wrong place. The butt screws have small notches in them for that reason. Take a picture before and give it to the smith when working on these beauties. Thanks

[Joe Bernfeld]

I needed to refinish my 28 ga. after I repaired a broken wrist. I used some kind of chemical stripper (Zip-Strip? Strip-Ease?) and went over it a couple of times. Not too difficult, but time consuming. Leave it on thick for a long time. Be careful with plastic scrapers. The wood gets soft with the chemical stripper on there and it is not hard to gouge it. I used Tru Oil and I love the look.

The first pic is 2 Garbis and the 28 ga. Repro., all finished with Tru Oil. The second pic is the Repro, which could use another coat or 2 of finish. Easy to add.

I'm very happy with the broken wrist repair on the Repro. I bet you can't see where it broke in half through the wrist checkering right behind the tangs.

[Scot Cardillo]

Joe - you are right to caution about the use of plastic scrapers as they are not all created equal and I should have made it a point to be more clear on that.

I make my own and use a plastic called Delrin which differs from a plastic scraper off of a box store shelf which is likely made from polyethylene. That said..as a rule, unless it is polycarbonate or plexiglass - plastic will not damage the wood but on the same token, and as w/everything..a little common sense applies.

Delrin is rigid yet soft and will not damage nor will it mar the wood in any way shape or form. It can be brought to a very sharp edge which breaks down quickly during the stripping process hence my recomendation to have a sander handy for touch up. This method works quite well to remove the finish and does take some time. This is not an instant gratification/result method & does take some time. Furthermore - as the edge on a pc of delrin curls up it can then be utilized as a scraper w/a pulling action as opposed to a pushing action to remove material.

Brian..the 28 I am working on is what I believe to be an early pc as evidenced by the stampings on the barrel lug which are stamped "I" and "F" as opposed to "00" indicating the frame size. Unless it is inlayed into the stock (which it does not appear to be)..the stock oval on my gun only measures about .007/.008 thick..nowhere near the 1/16" or (.0625) that you indicated...maybe different suppliers or a change in manufacturing over the course of production?

[Richard Skeuse]

MD.GPS .Send me the serial number of your 28 and I will see if we have any info on it Thanks

[Scot Cardillo]

Wow..that is a very kind gesture..pm sent

[Brian Dudley]

I was basing my statement on the thickness of Repro stock ovals on the few that I have removed. I am not surprised that there is some variation.

[Scot Cardillo]

Brian w/out a doubt your experience dwarfs mine in this arena..heck, I don't even know how the oval is actually attached..I'm guessing a couple nails that are then sanded down and blended or glued? I have no clue.

A strip and oil finish is about the extent I would be willing to go so far as a departure from original condition and I have others I would not even consider doing that to. I know some do not covet the Repros as originals but as a fella coming in this late in the game I will guess that history will be very kind to Mr. Skeuse and to this generation of Parkers.