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charlie cleveland
04-22-2014, 09:57 AM
well boys with the help of brian who let me have some screws i now have the old ten ga with the heavy barrels back to gether..i did not put the safety in it because i m going to tear it back down and try my hand at redoing the stock and maybe getting the barrels redone.the old gunwas shot twice last night and it stayed closed when shot..one trigger still a littlesensitive but safe to shoot..i ve got to reread some of the old doings about getting the oil out of a stock...got one little pinthat fell out of the gun when i disasembled it that i don t no were it goes..i do not see a pin that looks like it in the parts map..the pin may not even go to the gun..i will post pictures tonite of it to see if someone can tell me were it goes...any way i learned don t wait to long before you put a parker together again after you have tore it down it took me awhile to figure out things...charlie

Dean Freeman
04-22-2014, 10:27 AM
Charlie,
I had to take pictures and stick labels with the part names on mine. If I hadn't, I'd still be wondering where all those parts go! Good luck with your gun

charlie cleveland
04-22-2014, 08:53 PM
here's a picture of the little pin. it fell out when i took the bottom plate off it may belong to the gun and it may not. this is a tiny thing maybe some of you can identify it i could not on the parts list...this gun is a e grade hammerless ten ga serial no somewhere in the 69000 range..charlie

Jerry Harlow
04-22-2014, 08:58 PM
Charlie,

Bet your opening lever does not stay over? That pin (plunger), with the small spring, and barrel latch trip is what releases your opening lever from the open position when the barrel lug presses down on the parts. Do you have the other two parts in there? Or do you have extra parts?

Go to the Parker Home Page, Technical Information, parts illustration. Part 20 is three pieces but you can't tell it from the illustration.

Brian Dudley
04-22-2014, 09:03 PM
Jerry is right, that is the trip plunger pin. The corresponding pin is likely still inside the trip.

charlie cleveland
04-22-2014, 09:47 PM
jerry your rite about the gun lever not staying open when gun is open..i have tomove lever by hand to be able to shut gun...will go to the parts picture again i did not see this little pin the 2 times i looked at the pictures..those 2 screws brian fixed the gun from coming open when its shot..i shot 2 remington nitro express through it and shes tight as fort knox..does the little pingo into the little spring...charlie

Brian Dudley
04-22-2014, 09:51 PM
The pin likely is not shown as an individual part since it is part of the trip assembly, which is technically 3 separate parts.

Jerry Harlow
04-22-2014, 09:56 PM
Pin has a spring on the shaft and they both go into the barrel latch trip, which goes into the gun towards the top and the flat the barrel lug hits is to the front. Look at one of your assembled guns and you will see the part and when you press down on it with a screwdriver the opening lever releases.

Should see it in your new gun but it has no tension since the pin is missing. Sometimes those springs are weak also, but just pull the two parts out and put the pin in and test the pressure with your fingers. You'll know if it works when you get it back together.

The good thing is you only have to remove the trigger guard and floor plate to put it back in, and the sears can be left in place.

charlie cleveland
04-22-2014, 10:47 PM
took it apart and put the little end of pin into the spring it now works rite..now i ve got to get me some acetone and a brush and work on getting the oil out of the stock..also got to work a little more on the one trigger its just a little to sensitive for my liking...thanks fellows for the advice i ll probly need some more help before i m done with this one...charlie

Justin Julian
04-26-2014, 09:54 PM
Charlie,
If the stock is dark from soaked in oil, you will need to remove it and soak it in a pan of acetone or lacquer thinner. It sometimes takes a week or more to draw out all the oil. I also usually have to take the wood out, let it dry thoroughly, and apply heat from a heat gun to draw deeply embedded oil out of the head end of the stock, several times. If you just wash the outside of the stock with a solvent, it will remove the surface oil, but in time the deep oil will migrate up to the surface, appearing as dark splotches, and ruin the new finish. So you really need to soak it to draw out all the oil before refinishing.

charlie cleveland
04-28-2014, 08:04 PM
have bought me a big plastic pan now i got to get somelaquer thinner.i have the stock back off the gun..the stock probably needs the checkering recut would you do this rite after soaking the stock or when is the best time..i will have to farm the checkering out.. charlie

Justin Julian
04-28-2014, 08:33 PM
Charlie,
Believe it or not, the proper way to do checkering is at the very end of the refinishing process, after the new finish has been applied.

I like to make a pan lid out of aluminum foil and pinch it down tightly around the edges to keep solvent evaporation to a minimum. You will likely need a second batch of solvent, for after the first one turns tea colored with dissolved oil. I also use Easy Off foaming oven cleaner on the inlet areas of the stock to take off the biggest part of the goo and grime that embeds in the rough wood grain. Coax it out gently with a tooth brush or other soft plastic brush, rinse with water, and repeat the process a couple times. You will be amazed how much oily goop and accumulated debris will come out of the inletted rough areas. I once cleaned a coastal G grade stock that way and recovered enough beach sand, along with other crud, to cover the palm of my hand.

charlie cleveland
04-28-2014, 10:14 PM
i got a good plastic lid with my pan..that surprized me about the checkering...will get some easy off too...charlie

Eric Grims
06-02-2014, 06:46 PM
I was wondering if there is anywhere were one can obtain a trip spring and pin assembly in this day and age. I currently don't need one but the reason I ask is that I have a friend that needed one a while back. He talked me in to pulling one out of a favored Trojan and sending it to my father to copy. He sent a new one back that he made and with lamp black and two swipes with the file it fit right in. Seeing how small it was I thought it might have been a good idea to have him make more than one but I did not. Would have been a good idea. He's 92 now and I no longer ask him to machine for me.

tom leshinsky
06-03-2014, 12:41 PM
Don't use a plastic pan for the acetone! It will dissolve the pan.

Destry L. Hoffard
06-04-2014, 04:13 PM
You beat me to the punch on the acetone and the pan! I think acetone works a lot better than lacquer thinner. You've got to keep it covered for sure, or you won't have much after a couple days.