Hinge pin removal ?

[Virginia Hessler]

Hi
Is there a special tool, something with sides on it to stabilize the blade ?

I made two attempts, neither were even close to loosening it. First blade bent it was to soft. Second blade snapped it was to brittle. And this was with heating up the action.
Maybe when it's new it screws in easy and once it's aged that's it. The slot is so narrow I don't seem to be able to figure out what to turn it with and do no damage.
Any thoughts appreciated.
Thank you, Tom

[Jerry Harlow]

This screw is the most difficult of almost any to remove. If it does not have to come out, don't do it. I've had the slot misaligned on several guns, the worst looking thing on a Parker, and had no initial success on getting them. But could not stand the misaligned screw. Even sent one that had been case-colored in the frame to a very well respected smith and he could not get it out. But I finally did. Here is how.

Take the receiver to the work bench and turn over to the non-slotted side.

Fill the hole around the screw with a good penetrating oil, not WD40, and leave for a day.

Next day, repeat on the slotted side. Let it stand for a day.

Now if you have a pencil torch, heat the end of the frame gently, never getting it hot.

Wipe out all of the oil, and use acetone to remove all oil. Tape the receiver around the hole to prevent scratching.

If the screw slot is misaligned, mark the back side (non-slotted) with a sharpie, copying the incorrect angle of the screw slot on the other side.

Use the correct bit from Brownells. The best thing is you must have a complete set. The screw slot will be one of two sizes from experience, some are thinner slots than others.

Clamp the receiver into a padded vice (not cloth), screw slot up. Even better yet, still have someone else to hold it.

With the correct size bit, and a small ratchet on the bit with an extension handle (small pipe on the handle), the screw will come out. But you can break bits. It is a difficult process to apply downward pressure while turning the screw. Don't let it slip.

Once out drive out the back side of the roll pin through the hole, and I use a brass punch to prevent damage. Have the receiver on a padded (I use leather) wooden block while SOMEONE ELSE HOLDS THE RECEIVER/STOCK.

Now if misaligned, the threaded side of can be realigned based upon the mark that was placed on it before drifting out. Cheat a little towards not having to tighten it too far. It is a pain to have to do it over, and you will never see one back out from not being completely tight.

Now the slot will align, and if you have a loose barrel on the roll, a new roll may be inserted before reinstalling. But this is another story as it may tighten it up or make it looser with a new roll.

Not responsible for any accidents (dropped guns, broken bits, ruined screw heads) and written for entertainment purposes only.:)

p.s. I have been able to tighten up screws that were not aligned by using the correct bit with a ratchet, without removing anything. But this is where you can break a bit if it will not go into proper alignment. Then to align there is no choice but removal. One will see lots of guns where the smith has often placed the slotted side incorrectly on the right side. I could not stand that so I know what I would be doing to them.

[Virginia Hessler]

Thank you for that reply
I have done almost everything you said but I did not use the penetrating oil. Never had much luck with it. Heat has always been my friend and lots of it. I heated it up until it started to change color, no damage it polished right out.
The whole purpose of this is to get at that roll and weld a shim on it to tighten up the face. I'll give it one more try nice and easy, I'm not willing to ruin its looks over this.
Thanks, Tom

[Jerry Harlow]

Tom,

Are you using Brownell's bits? These are hollow ground for the screws, and will not bend. May break, but in this size no bend. There are sizes that fit the slot perfectly, both width wise and depth and size of the slot. I have a small ratchet that fits right over the bit, so it is very near the screw and all of the torque goes right to the screw with no twisting at the top. With an extension handle on the ratchet (small pipe) the screw is going to let go and turn out in I would say most all cases.

[Brian Dudley]

do not heat the action. There should be no need to do this.

With all the actions I have stripped for parts and roll joints removed, I have never had to use heat and usually never even oil.

The screw is just in there tight. Nearly every one I remove has the threads librally coated with machine oil left from the day it was new.

The action in a drill press might be needed, but usually the bit in a socket handle for leverage will release the really tight ones.

[Jerry Harlow]

Brian,

If the screw was left intact and the frame re-case colored like the one I had, it was a different story. Thought it may never come out but it did.

[Brian Dudley]

You got a point there.

[Bill Murphy]

Replacing the roll pin is the last thing you would want to do to "fix" a loose Parker. The factory is closed, and there are better ways to approach this problem.

[Virginia Hessler]

No I do not have the Brownells bits, I hollow ground my own took my time and made a good fit. Maybe it's time to get a set. I would hate to buy a set and start snapping bits. The way you guys are talking I take it these are removed more often than I thought. Now that I know it is in fact doable I will pursue it and get it done.
Thanks, Tom

[Brian Dudley]

Bit sets are built to be broken. It happens, sooner or later.

[Jerry Harlow]

Tom,

I found two bit sizes needed checking several screws. You can buy these individually from Brownells so you don't have to buy the entire set:

340-5 (.340 shank diameter- .040 blade thickness)

300-3 (.300 shank diameter - .030 blade thickness)

I would buy a couple of each if I was going to make a habit of this.

[Virginia Hessler]

Thank you sir for your time.
I will order a few today.
Tom