another 10 bore hull question

[Rick Losey]

the first set of roll crimped loads in the new Remington hulls went well, but quite a bit of a roll remains in the mouth of the hull after it has been fired.

When I load the wad (SP10) in a new hull, its a tight fit, when I try to get the wad into a once fired hull that had been roll crimped it won't go and tears the case.

Do you do something (like BPI's spin doctor) to recondition the hull's mouth?

[charlie cleveland]

a spin doctor would work nice..the memory of this plastic is very good i too have the same problem you do..i take awad puncher and just roll it around the inner edge of the shell this usally lets the wad go in without much trouble.. i bet that spin doctor would solve both our problems... charlie

[Frank Cronin]

It happens to me when I fold crimp as well. Especially to new Federals that I cut down to 2 7/8". I condition the mouth of the hull before reloading to prevent the "wad snag"when reloading with a tool you describe. At one time I tried to skive the hull but that takes too much time, made a mess, and the plastic gets clogged in the cone bit. P.I.T.A...

[Pete Lester]

A spin doctor device is going to help greatly. In the interim if using a MEC single stage loader you can hold the hull by the brass placing just the mouth on the wide chrome part of the deprimer and wiggle the hull in wide circles while pushing the mouth of the hull against the deprimer to open it.

[Paul Harm]

I don't roll crimp plastic hulls for that reason - if I do, like 12ga, they get thrown away. Paper hulls are the ones that roll crimp nice and reload with no problems.

[Daryl Middlebrook]

When loading NEW 10,8 or 4 gauge hulls try this method.

After you have inserted the wad and added the shot, insert an over shot card. Then run a bead of glue around the perimeter of the card to glue it to the inside of the hull.---Forget any type of crimp at all !!!!!

I have found that this method eliminates any wad insertion problems ( during the next reload) and distress at the mouth of the hull. Thus the hulls last much longer and they are easier to reload next time.----It works for me.
Daryl Middlebrook

[Pete Lester]

When loading NEW 10,8 or 4 gauge hulls try this method.

After you have inserted the wad and added the shot, insert an over shot card. Then run a bead of glue around the perimeter of the card to glue it to the inside of the hull.---Forget any type of crimp at all !!!!!

I have found that this method eliminates any wad insertion problems ( during the next reload) and distress at the mouth of the hull. Thus the hulls last much longer and they are easier to reload next time.----It works for me.
Daryl Middlebrook

Daryl there was an earlier post that included a chart showing significant increases in pressure from seeming subtle difference in the depth of a folded crimp. I have to wonder about the amount of resistance a bead of hot glue provides and if it is more or less than a traditional roll crimp and thus effecting pressure up or down?

[Rick Losey]

That was my thought Peter, the glue is material that must be moved to allow the wad to exit.

On the other hand it might even reduce pressure, and to my simple mind that could affect burn rate and velocity.

[Daryl Middlebrook]

A good question. I have always used smokless powder for all of my reloads. I have read the Sherman Bell articles in DGJ. I use low pressure powders and generally tend to load lite for my Damascus guns.---Having said that, I never considered what various methods of closing the hole might have on pressures.

There are abundant recipes out there for 10ga. Finding recipes for 8 and 4 gauge loads (with pressures given) have proven to be a challenge.

I mostly use recipes that Tom Armbrust has published. However it is limited. Tom is a big bore specialist. He may have the info.----Daryl

[charlie cleveland]

daryl i load some the way you do..one thing i have learned when useing hot glue gun a person needs to put some pressure on the top wad till the glue sets up..for i have found that with lite loads espically in the 8 ga that you will get some bloopers if the shells are allowed to stay on the shelf for a few days ..the reason i believe you get bloopers is that by putting no pressure on the top wad while glueing is that the wads will expand on their own thus not enough pressure on the top wad to set powder off good...this is my 2 cents worth...would love to load up a box of 4 ga and shoot them.... charlie

[Paul Harm]

Think I agree with charlie - I at one time tried over and over to load brass 12ga shells with nitro and glued OS wads with no success - just bloopers. No proof what caused the problems. But Brad will be boring out my heavy 10 to a 8 and I like Daryls' idea.

[Daryl Middlebrook]

Yep!!!--you gentlemen are correct about applying pressure until the glue dries. I too had bloopers until I learned.-----Again, this poses the question of how much wad pressure? And what effect it may have on chamber pressure.

A short piece of dowel and a C clamp works great.

What powders are you gentlemen using for the 4 and 8 gauge?

[charlie cleveland]

daryl i m using blue dot in the 8 ga and use tom arbrust info on the 8 ga.. i also use pyrodex and triple 7...50 grains of pyrodex and 1 1/2 ounce of lead shot makes a really goods lite load in the 8 ga..i ve shot several of these loads rolled crimped.. no recoil felt but plenty of power will cut oak leaves away up in a tree... i alsoi have loaded clays powder in the 8 ga seemed to work fine in lite loads... charlie

[charlie cleveland]

i ve been wondering what a round ball of lead for a ten ga would weigh on the average anybody got any ideas..any body loading round ball load at the present for the short ten or have a idea of how they would load it..i mguessing the round ball will way more than 1 1/4 ounce i m gonna guess it will be closer to 1 1/2 ounce..anybody know... charlie

[Rick Losey]

i ve been wondering what a round ball of lead for a ten ga would weigh on the average anybody got any ideas..any body loading round ball load at the present for the short ten or have a idea of how they would load it..i mguessing the round ball will way more than 1 1/4 ounce i m gonna guess it will be closer to 1 1/2 ounce..anybody know... charlie

A ten gauge bore is ten to a pound, 1.6 ounces, but you would downsize it to fit in a hull or wad. So I would guess you would be in this range depending on if you are using a plastic wad or just a felt wads under it. you would need to measure the inside diameter of the hull or wad you are using. and i am guessing this would only be true for a cylinder bore, if the gun is choked, go with the smallest spot in the choke.

.730 = 586 grains = 1.34 oz
.735 = 598 grains = 1.37
.760 = 661 grains = 1.5

[charlie cleveland]

thanks for the info...i m going to try the 10 ga round ball next for deer but i ve got to get one with the 8 ga pumpkin ball load first..i figure a ten ga mite have more accuracy than the 8 but won t know till i try...i know the accuracy of the round ball is not as good as rifled slugs.. charlie

[Paul Harm]

I've shot lots of "trade gun " matches here in Michigan with a flintlock muzzleloader , round ball, no rear sight. We shoot at metal clangers - different shape items. Most guys usually shot good out to maybe 75 or 80 yards - some targets at 100 - most at or under 50. With rear sights one year we used them in rifle matches and did real good out to 80 yards. My gun would shoot 12" low at 50 yards, so I put two really small headed tacks 2/3 of the way back from the muzzle on each side of the barrel where the forearm wood met the barrel. This way there was no rear sight above the plane of the barrel. I placed them from trail and error where I could hold my head high enough to see them and hit the bulls eye. Never told anyone about those little brass tacks and use to hit about every target. Problem was I couldn't throw a knife and hawk worth a damn so I still wouldn't win over all. The round ball is good I think out to about 50 yards for a killing shot. The last dear I shot was with my homemade matchlock [ .715 RB ] was about 20yds and it dropped in it's tracks. I've got some .695 RB's, maybe I'll try to work up a load for my Parker 12s. I think 65grs of 3F would work just fine.