Barrel removal

[Jim_Peasley]

Hi, Just getting used to the forums here... unlike anything I've used before so bear with me.
I've got an 1897 Parker GH with 28" Damascus barrels and I'm trying to get the barrels off so I can see the markings stamped into the "watertable?" The barrels are quite dingy, but no major craters. The bores look quite good with maybe minor pitting. The receiver engraving is quite faint and the trigger guard looks to have some minor corrosion.
I'd like to get this apart and send it to a restorer for a quote, but I understand that removing the barrel pivot roll pin is not the way to go. Any suggestions appreciated.

[Brian Dudley]

Jim,

Remove the forend by pulling on the finger latch and pulling off at the tip.
Then open the top lever and the barrels as if opening the breech, the barrels should come right off.

If they do not, then they are not unhooking from the cocking mechanism. This issue is not all that uncommon with Parkers. Especially if they have not been cleaned or if they are well worn or beat up.

The issue could be dirt and gunk causing the unhooking slide to be hung up. Or it could be a broken unhooking slide spring. Or it could even be damage to be trigger plate. I have seen some Parkers that the trigger plate dolls head was dented up by the 2 front screws. And those dents caused the unhooking slide to be pinched and not operate correctly.

Unfourtunately, one of the only methods of getting the barrels off if the unhooking slide will not move is to remove the trigger plate and get into the gun. You can try squiring some oil down into the water table well to see if it will free up some gunk if that is the issue.

[Jerry Harlow]

Jim,

First try dry firing both barrels on spent hulls. Remove the forend and see if the barrels come off. Some guns no matter how clean have to be disassembled this way. Let us know.

If that does not work you can remove the screw that holds the cocking hook by having someone open the gun as far as it will go, using a correctly sized bit. Be careful not to lose the small spring that is under the cocking hook.

Then you may have to use Brian's method if neither of the two above work.

[Brian Dudley]

Yes, removing the cocking hook screw is a method that I did Not think of when I drafted my reply. That is mostly be size I do not always rely on that morbid since on many guns, the screw head does not clear the water table when the breech is opened. But, if yours will, the. It can be done.

[edgarspencer]

The screw for the cocking hook can be removed if the barrels are opening far enough, yet still not releasing.

[Jim_Peasley]

Thanks for the info. Tried all that you suggested, but no cigar. I think I'll take it to a local gunsmith and see if he can get it apart so I can sent it out for a refurbishing quote.

[Jim_Peasley]

Thanks JA, before I do anything drastic I'll see if I can find a couple of fired shells and try that. Otherwise, I'll bring it to a local gunsmith as there are no screws visible when the gun is open.

[Jim_Peasley]

Edgar, there are no screws visible when the gun is open. What am I missing?

[Jim DiSpagno]

When the gun is open, look on the left side of the lug closest to the hinge pin and you will see s screw about 5/16" in diameter that holds the cocking hook. Hold the gun open as far as it will go and remove the screw if there is enough room. If the screw will not come all the way out, use a small pin punch to tap out after all the treads are free from frame. There will be three parts the release, the cocking hook, the screw, and a plunger spring with tip. Don.t loose them. Then the barrels should release easily. Do all this with the fore end off the gun and over a table. Jim

[wayne goerres]

I have used this method to get some of mine apart. Best done with two sets of hands. Watch for falling parts. Once apart you can reasembil the cocking hook and snap the barrels back on. You probable will have to dissasemble the hook to get them back off again.

[Brian Dudley]

I would not trust a Parker to just some local gunsmith unless he knows the gun. If you are going to send it out for referb or a quote on it. I would expect that nearly anyone who would referb it would know how to fix the issue and get the barrels off. Why not just send the gun complete to who ever you are going to send t to and has them fix the issue while they have it?

[Dave Suponski]

Makes sense Brian but for me I will not ship a doublegun assembled.

[Jim_Peasley]

Jim,

AHA! Now I see the screw. It's well camouflaged with only the slot to distinguish it. Unfortunately, there's about 1/16" or so of the screw head still below the watertable so I don't think I'd be able to get it out without buggering something up. I'll try the dry firing an empty shell, a local gunsmith, and as last resort, sending a really long package across the country.

[Jim_Peasley]

Autumn, I've got my reservations about shipping it assembled as well. Would greatly prefer to separate the two halves first.
Speaking of which, do you have any recommendations for shipping from AZ to the East coast?

[Brian Dudley]

I too like to ship broken down too. But in this case, might be best. Like I said previously, that cocking hook screw will often not clear the water table.

[Jerry Harlow]

Jim,

AHA! Now I see the screw. It's well camouflaged with only the slot to distinguish it. Unfortunately, there's about 1/16" or so of the screw head still below the watertable so I don't think I'd be able to get it out without buggering something up. I'll try the dry firing an empty shell, a local gunsmith, and as last resort, sending a really long package across the country.

Jim,

It is usually partially below the water table but often a second person holding and opening the gun a little beyond the normal, can open it just a little more and give it enough to clear.

[Paul Ehlers]

Jim,

This is a fairly common thing to have happen to a Parker.

The trick that usally works is as follows.

1. Make sure the gun is un-loaded.
2. Pull both triggers & drop the hammers.
3. Remove the forearm.
4. With one hand on the barrels & the other on the stock. Move the opening latch to the right and break the gun open.
5. If the barrels don't come off now. Try wiggleing them a little both side to side and slightly to the open & closed position.

If this doesn't work.

1. Close the gun again.
2. leave the forearm off.
3. Find the small round rod/pin that sticks out of the knuckle of the reciever under the barrels.
4. Pull the rod toward the muzzle end of the barrels while trying to open the gun as done in the previous steps. This should get the barrels to release from the cocking hook & be able to be removed.

If all this fails. Take the gun to a gunsmith that knows Parkers.

Good luck,

Paul

[Wayne Johnson]

Mine does the same thing. I just keep a couple of fired shells handy and dry fire it and the barrels come right off. No problem.

[Jim_Peasley]

Thanks Paul;
I tried all that you suggested with no luck except for trying to pull the pin out. I'm assuming it's hardened, but am kind of leery about buggering it up by grabbing onto it with pliers.
I dropped it off at the local gun store yesterday for their gunsmith to take a look at. If I can separate the two halves, I'm gonna send it to Ilion, NY for a quote on refurbishment. Since I'm not a collector or hunter, I thought I'd give it to my 2 identical twin grandsons. Kinda fitting... 2nd iteration of grandfather to grandson.

[Brian Dudley]

With all you have tried, there is nothing left to do but remove the trigger plate and get the cocking hook freed from there.

[Bill Murphy]

I often receive guns from the post office packed in a plastic one piece case with the gun assembled.

[wayne goerres]

The UPS garillas can damage anything even in a plastic hard case. Just had one damaged in a hard case. You just have to pay your money and take your chances.

[David Hamilton]

Put the gun in a good hard case and put the case in a stout cardboard box with some padding, then the gorillas will not know you are shippiong a gun. It removes the resentment factor. What motivates these people is hard to understand. David

[rufus thames]

The UPS garillas can damage anything even in a plastic hard case. Just had one damaged in a hard case. You just have to pay your money and take your chances.

Wayne
Was it insured. And if so did the insurance make it good, if that is possibly. Possible meaning these fine guns (Parker Bros..) are irreplaceable. Hoping the damage was litter.
Thanks for your response.
Rufus

[Bill Murphy]

My friend David Hamilton clarified my post. The full length plastic case inserted into a well padded cardboard box is the way some dealers prefer to send fully assembled guns or rifles that cannot be taken down. It has always worked for me, whether sending or receiving. Use USPS Registered Mail, insured if you are not self insured.

[Linn Matthews]

I remember reading a similar discussion a few years ago. The best thought at that time was to use heavy duty PVC pipe stock with a collar on each end into which a PVC plug could be screwed. The firearm was packed tightly in place and the screw in plugs were actually glued into place (for that reason the tubes were made longer than necessary so that they could be cut off and reused)
This sounded pretty good though I have never tried it. My last shipment to Del Grego was in a breakdown Browning case with 3 layers of foam protecting the gun. The whole thing was put into a cardboard box for shipment. Worked fine.

[wayne goerres]

The person I bought my gun from was self insured so the gun was sent back.

[Chuck Bishop]

The last gun I shipped I shipped broken down using bubble wrap. I used an old Americase heavy duty cardboard box. I tried to find a similarly shaped box locally but could not find one.

If I ever ship another gun, where do you guys find a rugged cardboard box the correct size, capable of shipping say a 30" barreled disassembled gun?

[Bob Jurewicz]

Chuck,
I get my boxes from:
CAMERON PACKAGING, INC.
250 E Hanthorn Rd
Lima, OH 45804
They have a website.
Good heavy cardboard boxes.
Bob Jurewicz

[allen newell]

Go to your local fishing tackle shop and (best in early spring when they're receiving new goods) and ask them if they'd save you some cardboard boxes that their rods are shipped in, especially those boxes shipped with one piece 9 ft or longer rods. You can cut the boxes down to size for your guns. Also ask them to save any of the bubble wrap that comes to them. I'm retired and work part time in a local premier tackle shop on the Cape and we're only too happy to give anyone these boxes who want them. Ask and you shall receive.

[Robin Lewis]

I find that a single eight foot 1x4 pine board (for the sides) and a half sheet of 1/2 inch plywood (for the top and bottom) is all I need to make a nice shipping box. It can be sized to fit the gun so that after it is wrapped in bubble wrap it will fit snugly and travel safely. It costs more than cardboard but protects better. Shipping cost is only few dollars more.

[Daryl Corona]

I find that a single eight foot 1x4 pine board (for the sides) and a half sheet of 1/2 inch plywood (for the top and bottom) is all I need to make a nice shipping box. It can be sized to fit the gun so that after it is wrapped in bubble wrap it will fit snugly and travel safely. It costs more than cardboard but protects better. Shipping cost is only few dollars more.

I recently bought a gun from our own Mr. Swanson and he shipped it in a wooden crate which is practically bullet proof. Right now the gun and crate is with Brian Dudley. When it returns I attempt to post pics. I ship exclusively USPS and have never had a problem. The cost to ship this crate was only $22.00. Not bad considering the secure manner in which it will travel and it does'nt look like a gun is inside.