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#3 | ||||||
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The tieing back of the action and also the removal of the sear pin before trigger plate are both fine ideas by way of tips to make things easier.
The photos that I took and put up are simply a visual guide to help transfer woods to the hands/eyes that have to do the work. They outline the basic steps of the parts that are needed to be done. I could go into each variation of dissassembly, but it would not be completely required in my opinion.
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B. Dudley |
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#4 | ||||||
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Robin,
Thanks for putting it up in the FAQ's. It looks great. And good idea adding those additional tips on the bottom. I think all the bases are covered. I do have a lifter to break down in the near future. So maybe we can do something similar for the hammer guns.
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B. Dudley |
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| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Brian Dudley For Your Post: |
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#5 | ||||||
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FYI,
I have also added a very comprehensive album on the dissassembly of a lifter hammer gun.
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B. Dudley |
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| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Brian Dudley For Your Post: |
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#6 | ||||||
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In my opinion, the older style 2pc. sear springs are harder to depress than the 1pc. style.
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B. Dudley |
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#7 | ||||||
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Chuck:
I will heartily second your position! Many in the US believe a gun ought to work :"til it don't" then take it to the gunsmith. Kind of like expecting your car to run "til she quits" with no maintenance and all the fluids the factory put in! (like my ex-wife thought) Best, Kensal. |
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