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#3 | ||||||
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With an assistant, I completed a search of bore measurements and wall thickness measurements of a pair of William Evans sidelock guns at an Alderfer's auction several years ago, using a Galazan bore micrometer and a Manson wall thickness gauge, in about twenty minutes. That included the transcribing of the measurements onto a legal pad. This allowed me to purchase a cased pair of second tier London sidelock guns in high condition for a price that anyone without these measurements wouldn't have had the nerve to purchase at any reasonable price. The guns were perfect, original, no work done on the guns including extending chambers, all bores completely untouched. My tools cost me about $225.00 and I have used them for decades.
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#4 | |||||||
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![]() ![]() I couldn't help myself, but we've been waiting so long for you to post a picture, a video just seems too good to be true. But, If it did happen, I have no doubt it would get an Emmy ![]() ![]() I just love a good movie, and popcorn.
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| The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to edgarspencer For Your Post: |
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#5 | ||||||
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Edgar,
Thanks for getting everyone trained up on taking measurements .... now hopefully we'll get to see some more readings ...
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#6 | ||||||
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Mr Spencer and Mr. Hause, thank you both for your explanations. You have cleared up a subject which for me was very muddy.
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#7 | ||||||
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A manson gauge is very capable of getting accurate thickness measurements.
There is lacks is the limitation of bore size it can measure. As I recall, when I had mine it would not go into a tightly choked 20g. muzzle. And the size of the ball on the end of the rod does Not allow measuring into pitted areas as much as a hosford gauge does. But, for the money, a Manson is a good piece of equipment. The areas that Drew measures on his record sheet are the areas I like to sample As well. At the forcing cones, around the forend lug (about 9-10” out) and The minimums found out in the second half of the tubes.
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B. Dudley |
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#8 | ||||||
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Another thought of mine...
The whole wall thickness subject can be a little mirky to Some as to what is “safe to shoot” and what isn’t. There are really two ways to look at it. Ultimately one can base their safety conclusions on thresholds of overseas proof house standards. But, anything beyond that is simply based on individual experiences and knowing “well, I have shot other guns with comparable measurements to ‘the subject’ gun, so it should be just fine. In that type of scenario, different people may have different opinions on what is “thin”. I have heard people say that they dont like anything with a minimum under .030”. Well, if that is the case, a TON of guns left factories then and now that were/are too “thin”.
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B. Dudley |
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| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Brian Dudley For Your Post: |
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#9 | ||||||
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Great discussion and explanations. Having just performed these measuring procedures, I am glad that it has been pointed out how to properly zero a gauge (which takes rod flex out of the equation of zeroing), the importance of horizontal zeroing/ gauge use to eliminate gravity's affect on "rod flex" that alters readings, and the importance of not allowing the rods to contact the barrel (or anything else) which would induce rod flex errors. Excellent descriptions!
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#10 | ||||||
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I will admit that some points Dr. Drew made, got me thinking that I should be taking more measurements to complete the picture. Part of the reason I don't often turn the barrel around and measure in from the breech is laziness due to the manipulation of the barrel, without that extra set of hands. I have always been tuned into those 'improvements' that aren't: chamber lengthening. My preference is towards smaller frame guns, so knowing the wall at the forcing cone is perhaps more important that knowing what the wall is between midway and muzzle. The fore end area is critical to me also, because I have a permanent image in my brain a of guy's thumb tip blown off at a field trial when he let loose to much oomph for the English hammer gun he had only just passed around at show-and-tell.
Brian makes important points, and simply knowing how to properly use the Manson style gauge, and knowing the real numbers, isn't of any value, if you don't also know what numbers are OK, and those that aren't |
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