pistol grip to straight

[WilliamGuest]

Yeah, I'll probably pick one up anyway...At least if I don't end up using it, I'll have an extra on hand...And yes, I'm leaning towards a straight grip..

[Chuck Heald]

The problem with welding an extension to the short tang is that the weld will show when charcoal blued in the original finish. So most smiths just rust blue welded trigger guards to prevent it from showing.

I'd buy the Galazan TG engrave it and bright charcoal blue as original. I'd also straighten the upper tang of the frame and possibly raise it along with the rear of the lower tang. This will make the lower line of the stock higher allowing for a normal tallness of the buttplate when you raise the comb to modern dimensions.

I'd not worry about loosing value due to the stock not being a pistol. The value of a restored VH will be based on the craftsmanship and appearance IMO. "Appearance" of authenticity seems to be the biggest aid in resoration value of low grade guns, rather than full custom features. I think higher figured wood is almost expected, but not too high. Original checker patterns are a safe bet, but a higher factory grade pattern seems to have acceptance. Shootable dimensions are a must on a non-collectable, IMO.

[WilliamGuest]

Sounds like some good advice there...And possibly some of which I may adhere to. Thanks again.

WG

[C.O.B.]

I have done it both ways. First it's your gun and if your going to have it restocked anyway do it how YOU want it and the Hell with the future "value". It will have more value to you and thats what it's about now.

I restocked a CHE 20 and used the original trigger guard and had it lengthened. Goffery Gornet (? spelling) engraved it and you can't tell it's not original. I'm doing a custom VH 20 the way I want it done and bought the trigger guard from Galazan. For the cost it's a better way to go IMHO and I have the original trigger guard but I suspect that some day someone will need one and I'll sell it as I have no need of it or the stock and forarm. To keep the spare parts for originality is moot as the gun isn't original any more. IF I ever sell either one of these guns do you really think the original furniture and metal will add any value? The stock from the CHE is already gone.

It's your gun stock it how you want to. A straight grip and the Galazan trigger guard gets my $2 worth what with inflation and all.

[WilliamGuest]

I was leaning towards the straight grips anyway...Prefer that on my shotguns..And yes, it is true..it's mine, and if i'm gonna pay the money to have it restored, as least to a certain point, might as well have it the way i'm most happy with it....When I get my camera straightened out and a few pictures taken, I'll be sure to post current pics, and once completed, after pics.

Thanks

WG

[Chuck Heald]

WG,
I had a gun with a similar situation and had the same decisions to make. It happened to be a Fox AE with a poor replacement stock that was broken at the wrist. So, no original stock. I chose original species wood for stocking it, but much higher figure. I chose a factory pattern but an X grade pattern for checkering. I did stick to the original pistol style.

[WilliamGuest]

Wow!! very nice Fox! Beautiful wood there too..

[WilliamGuest]

Here are several pics of the VH that is getting restored first..Never got the PH yet, should have it in the mail tomorrow morning hopefully. I do have an inletted blank for the VH, not shown here in the pics, but may upgrade to another higher figured piece of walnut for the butt and forend, (forend in pics is only a "slap on" that the previous owner had in order to use it for hunting. The receiver and most other metal has been cold-blued at somepoint in it's life, the barrels will be getting a rust blue before it's all over.

I'm also going to need a few replacement screws as well, couple stripped out/buggered.

[Chuck Heald]

WG,
If you look at the pic of the side showing the tang of the frame, you see the upper has a curve to it that continues past the screw under the middle of the toplever. If you straighten it from about the screw on back, it will look and work out much better for a higher (modern) comb straight grip stock. If you don't, it will have a curved look to the upper line of the grip and it will have a large/deep "gullett" in the grip to comb area. It's a subtle change that will make the gun look so much better. But when you do the upper tang, you have to also straighten the toplever and raise the bottom frame tang as well. All of this can be bent easily. Heat it with a propane torch if you like, but it will bend without heat.

[WilliamGuest]

Will certainly consider it Chuck..