A Parker VH, for field and for fun

[David Dawson]

I picked up this Parker PH 12 gauge this weekend. The serial number dates it to 1924. I want something in nice shape, but not so nice that I would be afraid to take it out and use it. This isn’t my first rodeo with 100+ year-old firearms so I knew for my own piece of mind and for the guns sake, I would need to get inside and take stock of how things are as I got it. Everything appeared to function OK except the safety was slow to disengage and felt gummy and its action. Also with an old shotgun, I’m always concerned with hidden rust and corrosion from field use in the last century.

I have to say the resources on this forum are wonderful and allowed me to get the stock off without damage or incident. Most of the screw hats on this Gunn showed evidence of being touched by someone before me so thankfully I wasn’t the first one to put marks on them. It also meant that they all came out without much effort. I was happy to find nothing but a good bit of dirt and grit, and old grimy oil turned into glue. A few of the screws had some minor surface rest that was easily cleaned off. Using a dental pic I was able to get most of the grime out of the safety toggle area. I would have loved to actually get the toggle and pin out, but I am not ready to try to take the tang screw bushing out to get to it. My concern is it’s started corroding and is at risk of sticking and/or damaging the wood its in. At least it moves much more freely now, so a problem for another day.

Reassembly was… tricky. I see why people are rightfully worried about getting in to the innards of a Parker. Lots of little pins and bits and springs to go missing for sure! I’m actually inclined to continue with “cleaning and lubrication via aerosol” until a more pressing problem develops as I didn’t really see anything in terms of corrosion or damage. Happily whoever owned the old girl before me seems to have kept up on things.

After reassembly, everything appears to still be in working order just much smoother.

I do have a quick question regarding the wood. What would a correct finish be on the stock and forend? The color and some other marks on the metal, plus experience with cleaning and conserving my grandfathers 1873 Winchester from 1900, leads me to think the wood might have been shellacked at some point. What’s there could use a cleanup. If shellac is incorrect, I’m happy to remove it (with alcohol, nothing harsh!) and apply tung oil. If shellac is correct, well I’ll get shellacing this summer.

[Harold Pickens]

Nice looking PH David. I have a PH 20 with steel barrels and a PH16 damascus.,actually Twist

[Kentucky Bird Hunter]

And I have a PH 12 with twist steel barrels. Took my first double with it on doves in a corn field in southern KY.

Dave

[Keith Doty]

David, I have had very good luck on several occasions with "sticky" issues by applying a very small amount of a penetrating oil called Kroil. Bought a Parker several years ago that the safety was nearly inoperable, took a good deal of force to slide it to firing position. I was afraid I had mechanical issues but decided to try the Kroil first. 24 hours later it functioned perfectly. I have owned a marine service business for many years on the Gulf coast and discovered this stuff years ago. Definitely the best thing I have ever seen for freeing frozen bolts/screws. Apply and walk away at least overnight. I recommend guarding finishes on stocks when using it on your fine guns.