This is want Google AI says about Parker rebounding hammers: In a Parker rebounding lock, the motion is achieved through a specific interplay between the lock plate, mainspring, and sear spring: (Is this what you're calling a "Stokes" rebounding locks?)
Mainspring Arrest (The Step): The key component is a mechanical step or stop located on the bottom of the lock plate.
Inertial Strike: When the trigger is pulled, the mainspring drives the hammer forward. However, the mainspring is physically arrested by the lock plate's step just before the hammer actually reaches the firing pin. The hammer continues forward on its own inertia to strike the pin and fire the shell.
Spring-Assisted Return: Once the hammer’s forward momentum is spent, it is no longer under pressure from the mainspring. The sear spring then provides the necessary tension to push the tumbler and hammer back into a "neutral" or "rebound" position, often engaging a safety notch.

Yup, that’s basically it Leon.





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One other thing to check is the fit oof the hammer on the asle. I have seen quite a few of these guns where the hammer wobbles but the axle fits tightly in the lockplate. The hammer has a square hole and may not match the shaft. Sometimes a washer under the hammer will fix it because the screw is slightly too long and is bottoming out. If this is the case, try swapping the hammer screws side to side. If that doesn't help, use the washer. If these don't work the hammer (or square shaft) can be welded to build up a little metal and then refitted. I would prefer doing the shaft to avoid welding on the hammer.