Ejector problems 🙈

[edgarspencer]

Originally Posted by Kevin McCormack

I had a cherry little Fox 20 gauge AE Grade with an original Kautzky ST.

Just this morning, catching up on a little reading, I ran across an ad for a nice DHE 12ga, but ruled it out when I saw it had a Kautzky trigger. Well, that, and it was a 97 year old ad. I heard it's still for sale.

[Steven Adam Gray]

Originally Posted by edgarspencer

Just this morning, catching up on a little reading, I ran across an ad for a nice DHE 12ga, but ruled it out when I saw it had a Kautzky trigger. Well, that, and it was a 97 year old ad. I heard it's still for sale.

Single triggers must really suck no matter the maker haha. My sterlingworth 12ga ejector and my 20ga vhe were only one year old when this was released

[John Allen]

I sent the DHE to Darlington in late March of this year and got it back mid April. As to the question about why ejector guns sell for more, I think that many buyers are convinced that they add value for reselling. Ejectors were an add on extra cost option when Parker was in business.

[DoubleOframe]

The Parker ejector design is a bit over engineered and without the right tools and knowledge they’re best left for professionals. Even then they can be very frustrating, especially if the roll joint and sear legs are not correct.

Hammers and combination sears get worn and break occasionally, but debris and corrosion is often the culprit for malfunctions. It can be difficult to get all the junk out that accumulates between the hammers and sears without totally disassembling them. Gun scrubber or break parts cleaner is good, ultrasonic cleaning is also good, but sometimes you have to break them down to get all the crud out.


Once you have them apart you should check the combo sear and notch in the hammer for any chips, rounded edges, burrs, etc. The upper notch holds the hammers from falling when you remove the iron from the unfired gun. The lower notch holds the hammer for ejecting fired hulls, the legs of the combo sears make contact on the roll joint in the frame and this is what trips the hammers when you open the fired gun. The surfaces are quite small and under magnification you can see the relationship much better.


Lightly lubricate them both and then be sure the sear slides are also clean and free to move. The sear slide springs have a tendency to take a set and get weak, sometimes they need to be replaced. The sear slide screw also will break off and if this happens it cannot push the combo sear down into position to hold the ejector hammers properly. The little copper sear spring also needs some adjusting from time to time. These don’t seem to be heat treated springs, just bent copper with a bit of tension memory in the metal. The legs will flatten out and quit pushing the combo sear properly.

Ejector parts are getting harder to find and we just finished making a sample batch of new ejector hammer springs for testing. We grind them in left and right pairs and after some additional testing we will offer them for sale. We CAD modeled them using average dimensions from a handful of original factory springs we had. They’re heat treated 1095 spring steel and so far they’re working exactly like we expected.

[Steven Adam Gray]

Originally Posted by Channing Will

The Parker ejector design is a bit over engineered and without the right tools and knowledge they’re best left for professionals. Even then they can be very frustrating, especially if the roll joint and sear legs are not correct.

Hammers and combination sears get worn and break occasionally, but debris and corrosion is often the culprit for malfunctions. It can be difficult to get all the junk out that accumulates between the hammers and sears without totally disassembling them. Gun scrubber or break parts cleaner is good, ultrasonic cleaning is also good, but sometimes you have to break them down to get all the crud out.


Once you have them apart you should check the combo sear and notch in the hammer for any chips, rounded edges, burrs, etc. The upper notch holds the hammers from falling when you remove the iron from the unfired gun. The lower notch holds the hammer for ejecting fired hulls, the legs of the combo sears make contact on the roll joint in the frame and this is what trips the hammers when you open the fired gun. The surfaces are quite small and under magnification you can see the relationship much better.


Lightly lubricate them both and then be sure the sear slides are also clean and free to move. The sear slide springs have a tendency to take a set and get weak, sometimes they need to be replaced. The sear slide screw also will break off and if this happens it cannot push the combo sear down into position to hold the ejector hammers properly. The little copper sear spring also needs some adjusting from time to time. These don’t seem to be heat treated springs, just bent copper with a bit of tension memory in the metal. The legs will flatten out and quit pushing the combo sear properly.

Ejector parts are getting harder to find and we just finished making a sample batch of new ejector hammer springs for testing. We grind them in left and right pairs and after some additional testing we will offer them for sale. We CAD modeled them using average dimensions from a handful of original factory springs we had. They’re heat treated 1095 spring steel and so far they’re working exactly like we expected.

How long b4 you estimate them being available for sale?

[Kevin McCormack]

Channing, thank you SO MUCH for this detailed post and especially the photos detailing the "Black Art" of trouble shooting and repairing Parker ejectors. Definitely a benefit in diagnosing related problems and suggesting solutions. Your first "crop" of springs is impressive! As time goes on and the world inventory of original replacement parts for these old doubles dwindles and disappears, I believe simply remaking them using modern metals and preparations (heat treating, etc.) will be the way to go if we want to keep on shooting them.

[Steven Adam Gray]

Originally Posted by Brian Dudley

Gun scrubber is great stuff for blasting crud out of an assembled mechanism before oiling anything. It is a high pressure solvent in a can.

I ordered a three pack of gun scrubber, bore scrubber, and barricade. Along with a Brownells 58 piece super kit screwdriver set. I disassembled the forearm and removed the ejector assembly and soaked it in gunscrubber let it air dry and whipped down the excess put a couple drops of gun oil. Did the same to barrel ejector slides. Ejectors seem to preforming as they should now. Thank you for the suggestion.