Ejector problems 🙈

[Steven Adam Gray]

Originally Posted by Andrew Sacco

I took one ejector gun apart. Let's just say it will be my last. You have an extracto-ejaculator. Shoot it as an ejector/extractor unless you're OK taking it apart and not having it to use if something happens.

I understand I was told by another gun smith that parker ejectors were a different animal but id prefer them to work as they should.

[John Allen]

Darlington fixed the ejectors on my 20 gauge DHE. They quoted me 4 to 6 weeks but I had it back in 2 weeks. The work was excellent and the price reasonable.

[Steven Adam Gray]

Originally Posted by John Allen

Darlington fixed the ejectors on my 20 gauge DHE. They quoted me 4 to 6 weeks but I had it back in 2 weeks. The work was excellent and the price reasonable.

How long ago did they do work for you ive heard mixed things about them in recent times since the original owner passed and left the business to his son in law.

[Keavin Nelson]

A little oil can some times make a difference. Take the wood off and try that first. Also take a look at the chamber and make sure no rust/fouling is inside which can hang up shells.

[Steven Adam Gray]

Originally Posted by keavin nelson

A little oil can some times make a difference. Take the wood off and try that first. Also take a look at the chamber and make sure no rust/fouling is inside which can hang up shells.

Ill try that bores are bright no pitting or rust but I definitely need to do a thorough cleaning any oil for the bores you suggest? Also what about the out side of barrels also the wood? And any type of oil or lube for the internals? Also thanks for your suggestions sir.

Thanks, Steven

[Keith Doty]

Steven, you might try removing the wood from the fore end then soaking the mechanism with Kroil. Let it sit overnight then blow it out and LIGHTLY lube it, blow again gently. Make sure no "drippy or runny" oil remains before reassembly. I have done this with one of mine that had very sluggish semi-functioning ejectors. I was cured! I have had very good success with Kroil over the years on "sticky" mechanisms. Keep it off the wood.
As far as disassembling the ejectors, it is only for the brave! Most gunsmiths run for the hills when you say "Parker ejector issues".

[Steven Adam Gray]

Originally Posted by Keith Doty

Steven, you might try removing the wood from the fore end then soaking the mechanism with Kroil. Let it sit overnight then blow it out and LIGHTLY lube it, blow again gently. Make sure no "drippy or runny" oil remains before reassembly. I have done this with one of mine that had very sluggish semi-functioning ejectors. I was cured! I have had very good success with Kroil over the years on "sticky" mechanisms. Keep it off the wood.
As far as disassembling the ejectors, it is only for the brave! Most gunsmiths run for the hills when you say "Parker ejector issues".

What kind of lube do you suggest?

[Keith Doty]

Take your pick from sewing machine oil to any good name brand gun oil. LIGHTLY is the key word here. Excess oil just gathers dirt and becomes a powerful adhesive. It will also run out and damage/soak your wood. Lots of folks leave too much oil in gun mechanisms and cause themselves more misery. Oil soaked wood is no fun.

[Steven Adam Gray]

Originally Posted by Keith Doty

Take your pick from sewing machine oil to any good name brand gun oil. LIGHTLY is the key word here. Excess oil just gathers dirt and becomes a powerful adhesive. It will also run out and damage/soak your wood. Lots of folks leave too much oil in gun mechanisms and cause themselves more misery. Oil soaked wood is no fun.

Oil soaked wood is definitely not a good thing

[B. Dudley]

Gun scrubber is great stuff for blasting crud out of an assembled mechanism before oiling anything. It is a high pressure solvent in a can.