Ejector problems 🙈
 

How bad is working on the ejectors? I know ill need quality screw driver set considering the brownell super set. Is there any special tools required? Are all the ejector parts in the forend? Please don't scould me im trying to learn.

Thanks, Steven.

Some of the best Parker gunsmiths I know won’t work on the ejectors, if that tells you anything.

They can be quirky.

When trying to diagnose what is going on, it is best to remove the wood and you can see the operation of most of the parts and you can see what is going on.

[QUOTE=Steven Gray;449577]How bad is working on the ejectors?

Like trying to diagnose a bad-running Jaguar.

[QUOTE=Kevin McCormack;449585]Sounds like a good time 🤣

I take it your new VHE is not doing the “E” part very well?

Well yeah the right barrel ejects pretty well but the left is kinda weak it kicks the shell up but not out all the way but with snap caps it kicked the left but not the right at the gun store but when I got home and tried it again with snap caps it kicked both out. But with shells it kicks the right barrel out but the left only jumps up i assume the springs are weak. I called Darlington gun works on the way home and they are 4 to 6 weeks out as of today at 12pm.

I took one ejector gun apart. Let's just say it will be my last. You have an extracto-ejaculator. Shoot it as an ejector/extractor unless you're OK taking it apart and not having it to use if something happens.

I understand I was told by another gun smith that parker ejectors were a different animal but id prefer them to work as they should.

Darlington fixed the ejectors on my 20 gauge DHE. They quoted me 4 to 6 weeks but I had it back in 2 weeks. The work was excellent and the price reasonable.

How long ago did they do work for you ive heard mixed things about them in recent times since the original owner passed and left the business to his son in law.

A little oil can some times make a difference. Take the wood off and try that first. Also take a look at the chamber and make sure no rust/fouling is inside which can hang up shells.

Ill try that bores are bright no pitting or rust but I definitely need to do a thorough cleaning any oil for the bores you suggest? Also what about the out side of barrels also the wood? And any type of oil or lube for the internals? Also thanks for your suggestions sir.

Thanks, Steven

Steven, you might try removing the wood from the fore end then soaking the mechanism with Kroil. Let it sit overnight then blow it out and LIGHTLY lube it, blow again gently. Make sure no "drippy or runny" oil remains before reassembly. I have done this with one of mine that had very sluggish semi-functioning ejectors. I was cured! I have had very good success with Kroil over the years on "sticky" mechanisms. Keep it off the wood.
As far as disassembling the ejectors, it is only for the brave! Most gunsmiths run for the hills when you say "Parker ejector issues".

What kind of lube do you suggest?

Take your pick from sewing machine oil to any good name brand gun oil. LIGHTLY is the key word here. Excess oil just gathers dirt and becomes a powerful adhesive. It will also run out and damage/soak your wood. Lots of folks leave too much oil in gun mechanisms and cause themselves more misery. Oil soaked wood is no fun.

Oil soaked wood is definitely not a good thing

If that is Jim Kelly's old store you are referring to, and if his nephew(?) is still there, it may be worth the wait.

Im pretty sure its jim kellys old shop I dont know if the nephew is there but I heard the son in law took it over but when I said parker ejectors he didn't say no.

Gun scrubber is great stuff for blasting crud out of an assembled mechanism before oiling anything. It is a high pressure solvent in a can.

Thank you for the suggestion I'm pretty sure my local gun store carries this

I use Napiers of London a lot. Those Purdey people use it and you can douse the parts in it, it will then blow mostly off with a can of compressed air and it's THIN. Buy a large and small can and refill the smaller can with the bigger one. It never gums up. I won't use CLP because it's too damn thick. But when it comes to oil Steven don't overthink this, it's just oil, not magic fairy dust. Everything on the market works but some are a bit more specialized.

Just my take on your gun. Parker ejectors use a v-type flat spring not a coil spring and such springs typically don’t get “weak”.

I really doubt any amount of cleaning with this or that solvent or oil will resolve the problem.

Are you sure the left fired shell isn’t hitting the breech face (ejecting too early)? Try ejecting a shell by opening the gun VERY slowly. Even then the fired shell should clear the top of the breech

That is what I was thinking Frank. The situation could be a timing issue.

Also, you have to look at the hulls sometimes. I personally have had issues with RST hulls not ejecting well, especially when they have been reloaded.

Ill try that im quite sure the barrels where fully opened because the right side flew out.

Could be a timing issue how are ejectors timed?

Also the shells were winchester super x 2 3/4

Each ejector is timed individually. If that left barrel ejector fires just a few degrees of arc early the rim of the shell could hit the very top of the breech and pop back toward the chamber. Meanwhile the right barrel with ejector in time ejects the shell properly.

Timing of the ejectors is not for those without very deep experience AND with available parts. You can try the solvent, again I doubt it will work, and if the problem persists it will take an expert to fix it. As posted here earlier many otherwise excellent 'smiths decline to work on Parker ejectors. Sorry I don't have any suggestions.

Here's what can happen to a Parker ejector "Floating sear". The center hole is worn oblong, the sear is cracked and there should be a small notch at the crack area that's now worn down but originally like the one opposite it.
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Ill try solvent first if the problem persists ill load it up and take it to Darlington gun works they are only about 2 and half hours from me. I talked to them on the phone they said they would do it but they were 4 to 6 weeks out. Thank you for your suggestion and the photo as well

4 to 6 weeks out isn't a long time. I have a gun at Eyster since January, and he said he'd get to it right away, and I should get it before bird season...in 2027. I still can't tell if he was joking or not. From my point of view this is another reason to have ten to twelve good backup guns : )

Maybe if I won the lottery or something I could have 10 to 12 backup guns haha a 1 frame 20ga with 30" or 32" barrels would be nice i would guess that would be the parker equivalent of a fox he in 20ga but if we are talking lotto money 1 or 2 of them as well wouldn't hurt to much 🤣.

Personally, I think ejectors were the worse idea ever. Single triggers are a close second.

I have to agree with you John but single triggers to me are #1 ahead of ejectors. They have no place on a SxS. When I ordered my Perazzi I asked for double triggers since it's the ultimate barrel selector, but the cost was something like an additional 5 grand so I passed.

I have had trouble with exactly ONE Parker and it was a VHE that failed to eject the left barrel and $$$ later and six month wait I got it fixed. Dan at Giacomo's said he was up for a challenge when he took it, then said that will be the last one he does and, "Now I remember why I stopped working on those damn things." I believe he had to make a part? Might be what Frank was talking about.

No, single triggers are the dumbest.

I just converted a high condition 12/32/VHE to double triggers. Although its Parker single trigger didn’t balk or double fire, and worked OK to shift R-L and L-R, all 4 pulls had varying creep and were inconsistent. OK for hunting I guess but for sporting I’m more of a trigger toucher than a pull through guy. Now it's got crisp 4.4 and 5.3 pound pulls and I couldn't be happier.

Amen brother John.:bowdown:

I had a cherry little Fox 20 gauge AE Grade with an original Kautzky ST that a well-meaning "gun tinkerer" attempted to "adjust for better pulls." Result was a total dumpster fire: loaded and ready to fire, the gun would go off when you took the safety off, and if you switched it to the alternate barrel, it would go off when you closed the gun! I had Dan Rossiter install double triggers, which he luckily had some original stock left. They looked great and the gun worked flawlessly afterwards.

A fox ae 20ga is a really nice sub gun

It's a tough call but I think a single trigger is worst than ejectors. I have turned down many old side by sides because they had single triggers. I sure don't want to pay extra foe either ejectors or a single trigger.

Then why does everyone ask more for ejector guns?