How long ago did they do work for you ive heard mixed things about them in recent times since the original owner passed and left the business to his son in law.

A little oil can some times make a difference. Take the wood off and try that first. Also take a look at the chamber and make sure no rust/fouling is inside which can hang up shells.

Ill try that bores are bright no pitting or rust but I definitely need to do a thorough cleaning any oil for the bores you suggest? Also what about the out side of barrels also the wood? And any type of oil or lube for the internals? Also thanks for your suggestions sir.

Thanks, Steven

Steven, you might try removing the wood from the fore end then soaking the mechanism with Kroil. Let it sit overnight then blow it out and LIGHTLY lube it, blow again gently. Make sure no "drippy or runny" oil remains before reassembly. I have done this with one of mine that had very sluggish semi-functioning ejectors. I was cured! I have had very good success with Kroil over the years on "sticky" mechanisms. Keep it off the wood.
As far as disassembling the ejectors, it is only for the brave! Most gunsmiths run for the hills when you say "Parker ejector issues".

What kind of lube do you suggest?

Take your pick from sewing machine oil to any good name brand gun oil. LIGHTLY is the key word here. Excess oil just gathers dirt and becomes a powerful adhesive. It will also run out and damage/soak your wood. Lots of folks leave too much oil in gun mechanisms and cause themselves more misery. Oil soaked wood is no fun.

Oil soaked wood is definitely not a good thing

If that is Jim Kelly's old store you are referring to, and if his nephew(?) is still there, it may be worth the wait.

Im pretty sure its jim kellys old shop I dont know if the nephew is there but I heard the son in law took it over but when I said parker ejectors he didn't say no.

Gun scrubber is great stuff for blasting crud out of an assembled mechanism before oiling anything. It is a high pressure solvent in a can.