Correct Screwdrivers

[Bindlestiff]

OK, thanks for the info!

Here is what I added to FAQ's, look it over and feel free to comment and I'll make changes as required to make it as clear and accurate as I can.

Thanks again.

How many times have you picked up an old Parker shotgun and looked at distorted or mangled screws after someone tried to dismantle the gun? Anyone who has looked at even a few Parkers has seen them, it may be the biggest problem of all for Parkers.

There is one simple thing to know to avoid adding your Parker to the list of Parkers with "buggered" screws - use the proper screwdriver and take some time getting the best fit to completely fill the slot before trying to turn the screw.

The question of what screwdriver to use was asked on the PGCA forum and the recommendation was to hollow grind them to fit or to purchase a good hollow ground set. The sets sold by Brownell's received favorable comments.

The Brownell sets will have a tip that fits, with the exception for the unhooking pin screw. That screw slot is so small that a set of jeweler's screw drivers is required. The Brownell's tips don't need to be ground but you definitely need both the "thin set" as well as the "super set" screwdrivers.

The goal when selecting a screwdriver is to completely fill the screw slot; side to side, depth and width.

The very first thing to do is to clean the slot of any debris, rust, dried hard oil or whatever else might be in there. Toothpicks are a good start but if you need something more aggressive, a dental pick can be used. Once the slot is clear of foreign matter, find the tip that best fits the slot. The width of the slot may not be completely filled but it is best if it is, the closer the better. It is critical that the fit of the depth and side to side spaces of the slot be completely filled by the tip, otherwise there is a good chance of burring the screw head. This is why the common wood shop or mechanic's screw drivers, with wedge tips, should never be used on your Parker screws.

One screw that is often seen damaged is the "joint pin screw". Unless there is a very good reason to remove this screw, like a severely damaged "joint roll", it is probably best to leave it alone.

If a screw head was "buggered", it may be possible to repair it rather than replace it. Don't file off the burrs but rather just peen it back into place. Filing removes the metal but a "buggered" screw head has all its metal intact, its just not where it should be. With a little care, the metal can be persuaded back into its proper position. Turn the screw back into place and very lightly strike it with a small peen hammer. Tap it lightly and at an angle to work the medal in the direction you want it to move and the vast majority of the burr should be returned into its proper place, leaving a fairly decent slot - not perfect, but decent.

[TARNATION !!!]

Robin: You have nicely pulled together info from various posts to make a good addition to FAQ's. Hopefully it saves a few original screw heads. A link to Galazan's might be useful for those times when screws are so badly damaged they need to be replaced. They sell a set of Parker action screws for $35. They need to be final fitted as the heads are extra long.
http://www.csmcspecials.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=19
Cheers
Jack

[Bindlestiff]

Thanks Jack. I added it to the FAQ.

I don't like to put explicit references to one specific supplier in any of the FAQ's because I don't think it should be doing advertising or any product endorsements, but it this case it seemed like the thing to do. I know finding suppliers of good screwdrivers or Parker screw sets is very difficult, so I thought it would help to add where to find them this one time...?

If anyone has an opinion on how to make the FAQ as helpful without the Brownell and Galazan links, I would be interested in hearing it.

[Austin W Hogan]

I have a nice set of squared screwdrivers with wood handles that I think came from Dixie Gun Works. I usually use ordinarary Ace or Tru Value screw drivers; clamp one in a vise and file a parallel blade that fills the slot.
Best, Austn

[C. Aaron Beck]

Do those wooden ones represent a good range of parker screw sizes? The brownells sets add up to quite a pretty penny.

[Opening Day]

Any good high quality set will be expensive but worth it in the long run. One or two ruined screws will cost you about the same as the set of screwdrivers....

[TARNATION !!!]

Brownells does sell tips individually. When I get a moment, I can check which size does what screw slot. Buying just a set of Parker size bits could help the gun budget. The thing about the full sets is that if you play with a variety of guns, you will have a tip for pretty much any gun screw out there. As Eric said, they are worth every penny if you want to work on original Parker screws. While there are modern replacement screws available, they take delicate work to final fit the heads and at the end of the day, they are not original.
Cheers,
Jack

[Chris T.]

The thin bit set from Brownell's has most of the sizes you need. You do have to be carefull when selecting the width of the blades, if they are too wide or offset in the slot you can bugger up the edges of the hole. Alot of times you see guns with a slightly raised edge around the screw holes or the screw head looks too small for the hole after you put it back. I like to be able to see a little space on either side of the blade in the slot, and if you are really fussy you can break the sharp edges off of the blade with a good file to help prevent this from happening.

[ch]

Yes it's good to here from you Jack been wondering myself. Hope all turns out well Godspeed ch