Carding, and boiling at the end

[Richard Ranney]

I’m new here and have been reading all I can here and on the web as well. I’ve read Tom Flannigans work diligently, your input here, and spoke with Dale Edmonds briefly on the phone. You guys have some incredible knowledge and experience regarding Damascus so I have some questions to clear my confusion.
I’m working on a 1906 LC Smith double hammer that’s Damascus. There were some very feint indications of a pattern in small spots under bright light. I’ve polished with 400 grit and ready to use Laurel Mountain. I know every set is different so here’s my questions and thoughts.

I intend to rust, and card dry with denim twice prior to first boil. Will rusting twice prior matter?
When carding do I attempt to make the rust blend perfectly, and how much rust gets removed? Until it all disappears?
After boiling, should I let them cool prior to carding? I’ll be carding with the barrels submerged.
When removing the oxide created on the first boil, does all of it get removed or is there an even darkness left? I’m assuming that I would see some pattern beginning to emerge.
How much pressure should I apply when carding after etching with 3/o or 4/o steel wool?
I’ll be using Ferric to etch and probably the soda solution while carding.

I appreciate all input I can get for this. Oh, I will strive to get my barrels done as well as the photos in this thread! They’re beautiful. Awesome work gentlemen.
Richard