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Hi Unregistered,
On July 29th, this site will be moving..! No, really - it's "moving" to another physical location - including servers, gateways, routers - everything - including my coffee cup...
So, from the date of July 29th through July 30 or 31 (shooting for these dates, but - as always, I'm at the mercy of my ISP who has to install the lines to the new location - and we actually get them running ;) ). But - this site, cloud servers and main web will be OFF LINE.
Now, please save these dates!! Please - don't be "that guy" who emails me on the 30th to tell me you "can't open the Parker Website". I'll already know it is offline - and also know that you are "that guy"...
I'll take this notice up and down over the next week or so - and leave it up during the final few days before shutting it off on the 29th..
John D.
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New 10 Gauge |
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02-24-2013, 10:25 AM
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#1
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Member
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Member Info
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 666
Thanks: 48
Thanked 418 Times in 202 Posts
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New 10 Gauge
I just purchased my first Parker 10 gauge and am looking for some advice. I am not able to post photos of the gun as when I try I get a box coming up saying I need to download some type of program. When I click on download the program other issues come up. That issue aside it is an 1884 O grade and matches what is in the serialization book. The serial number is 38327. It still shows some original case color especially the metal on the inside of the forearm. The barrel inscription says Twist barrels. The barrels are evenly pitted inside but the pits do not look very deep. No dings or dents whatsover on the barrels outside. I have not shot it yet but will do so tomorrow with some RST loads in both 1 1/8th ounce and 1 1/4 ounce shells. Everything works properly except the lever occasionally does not stay to the right when the gun is opened. Then I need to push it to the right again to close the gun. It was bad when I first bought the gun but since then I have put some lubricant in that area and it is only occasionally now. I am thinking a good cleaning would take care of that problem. According to the Serialization book steel buttplates were used on lower grade guns until 1878. My gun has the solid steel buttplate and it is numbered to the gun on the underside of the buttplate. Is the book wrong? Was the company trying to simply use up an oversupply of buttplates? Also under the buttplate on the stock wood is what looks like the number 314 rather than 327 which I had expected/hoped. I believe that is indicative of the gun having a replaced buttstock. But the stock absolutely seems to match the age and appearance of the forearm with regard to checkering wear and wood finish. Could somebody at Parker in 1884 have simply mistakenly switched buttstocks from my gun to 38314? I would appreciate any assistance the experts here could offer.
Dennis
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