Barrel removal

[Jim_Peasley]

Hi, Just getting used to the forums here... unlike anything I've used before so bear with me.
I've got an 1897 Parker GH with 28" Damascus barrels and I'm trying to get the barrels off so I can see the markings stamped into the "watertable?" The barrels are quite dingy, but no major craters. The bores look quite good with maybe minor pitting. The receiver engraving is quite faint and the trigger guard looks to have some minor corrosion.
I'd like to get this apart and send it to a restorer for a quote, but I understand that removing the barrel pivot roll pin is not the way to go. Any suggestions appreciated.

[B. Dudley]

Jim,

Remove the forend by pulling on the finger latch and pulling off at the tip.
Then open the top lever and the barrels as if opening the breech, the barrels should come right off.

If they do not, then they are not unhooking from the cocking mechanism. This issue is not all that uncommon with Parkers. Especially if they have not been cleaned or if they are well worn or beat up.

The issue could be dirt and gunk causing the unhooking slide to be hung up. Or it could be a broken unhooking slide spring. Or it could even be damage to be trigger plate. I have seen some Parkers that the trigger plate dolls head was dented up by the 2 front screws. And those dents caused the unhooking slide to be pinched and not operate correctly.

Unfourtunately, one of the only methods of getting the barrels off if the unhooking slide will not move is to remove the trigger plate and get into the gun. You can try squiring some oil down into the water table well to see if it will free up some gunk if that is the issue.

[J. A. EARLY]

Jim,

First try dry firing both barrels on spent hulls. Remove the forend and see if the barrels come off. Some guns no matter how clean have to be disassembled this way. Let us know.

If that does not work you can remove the screw that holds the cocking hook by having someone open the gun as far as it will go, using a correctly sized bit. Be careful not to lose the small spring that is under the cocking hook.

Then you may have to use Brian's method if neither of the two above work.

[B. Dudley]

Yes, removing the cocking hook screw is a method that I did Not think of when I drafted my reply. That is mostly be size I do not always rely on that morbid since on many guns, the screw head does not clear the water table when the breech is opened. But, if yours will, the. It can be done.

[edgarspencer]

The screw for the cocking hook can be removed if the barrels are opening far enough, yet still not releasing.

[Jim_Peasley]

Thanks for the info. Tried all that you suggested, but no cigar. I think I'll take it to a local gunsmith and see if he can get it apart so I can sent it out for a refurbishing quote.

[Jim_Peasley]

Thanks JA, before I do anything drastic I'll see if I can find a couple of fired shells and try that. Otherwise, I'll bring it to a local gunsmith as there are no screws visible when the gun is open.

[Jim_Peasley]

Edgar, there are no screws visible when the gun is open. What am I missing?

[Jim DiSpagno]

When the gun is open, look on the left side of the lug closest to the hinge pin and you will see s screw about 5/16" in diameter that holds the cocking hook. Hold the gun open as far as it will go and remove the screw if there is enough room. If the screw will not come all the way out, use a small pin punch to tap out after all the treads are free from frame. There will be three parts the release, the cocking hook, the screw, and a plunger spring with tip. Don.t loose them. Then the barrels should release easily. Do all this with the fore end off the gun and over a table. Jim

[wayne goerres]

I have used this method to get some of mine apart. Best done with two sets of hands. Watch for falling parts. Once apart you can reasembil the cocking hook and snap the barrels back on. You probable will have to dissasemble the hook to get them back off again.